Working on boat need help !

[SHAFT]

I want to take my reverse bucket , steering nozzle and manual place diverter off to paint them but I can't figure out to remove the shafts that they pivot on , I took out the bolts that go through the bucket into the shafts but now how do I pull the shafts out ? the pump is a Berkeley 12je Also how can I test a one wire alternater ? Thanks

[Cheap Thrills]

spray the pivot points down with some PB Blaster and drive them out with a brass drift and a dead blow hammer. it's how I did mine. dont go crazy with the hammering though shit happens and things break. the one wire alt. hook it up with an inline ampmeter if it shows a + while it is running well , it's workin. or just use a voltmeter on it while it's running it should show just under 14V. Or , take it to autozone ,they will usually throw it on the tester and spin it up for nothin.
C.T. :wink:

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Find a deep socket the fits the diameter of the pin. Put a screw driver under the "arm" and drive the pin tward the nozzle. The pin will stop at a certain point. Pry the screwdriver down and hit the pin some more. It will release fromthe reverse bucket. Its a pint in the ass but it will come out. the reverse bucket arm will be slightly bent outward but it will be fine. It would be nice if the holes were drilled all the way thru but they arent. The reverse bucket arms have to be pried outward to allow clearance for the bushings to come out. It wopuld have been alot easier to get them out if they were turned down a few thousands...........
Let me know if you cant get them out. You can call me and I can explain it to you over the phone
396

[Cheap Thrills]

Oh yeah I forgot I used a pickle fork ( Ball Joint tool) to get the tiller arm and the reverse bucket arm off.
C.T. :wink:

[Oldsquirt]

The pivot pins for the steering and trim are fairly easy to remove. Just remove the lock bolts and tap the pins through to the inside with a hammer and drift (punch, wooden dowel, smaller socket, etc.) The reverse pins are in blind holes so DO NOT use that method with them.
......The reverse bucket arms have to be pried outward to allow clearance for the bushings to come out.
Ahhhh, that explains why that gate I traded for was spread open. Spent a fair bit of time getting the arms closed back just right. I disagree with that technique. A very little bit of heat on the arms of the gate(to expand them) and simply "rattling" the gate side to side may get the pins moving. If not, it is FAR BETTER to drill and tap the center of the pins(keep in mind they are stainless and harder to work than mild steel) so they can be pulled out with a bolt. Pins, if damaged, cost a LOT LESS than a reverse gate.