Reply With Quoteask this guy. he had a little water in his engine to. had it fixed pretty quick to.
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I bought an Olds 455 that had been in a boat with a blown jet. By the time I got it the engine had sat for a while. An inspection under the valve covers revealed some rust even though the oil was clean (new not yet run) This raised my suspicion so I pulled the pan and a couple of main caps. I discovered water and minor rust under the caps. This made me coclude that there had been water in the oil and that the oil was changed for that reason. So my question is, assuming that you can't run the engine long enough to evaporate the water out of the engine, what would you do to get rid of the water that has gotten into the bearings lifters etc. WD40 and spin the oil pump? Alcohol? How long after an engine gets wet does it start to pit the crank?
ask this guy. he had a little water in his engine to. had it fixed pretty quick to.
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I think it depends on how much rust is in the bearings or critical areas that ware. I don't think you want rust in areas that could cut down on oil flow.
I salvaged a 455 olds that was in a boat that sank. It sat for a year and a half with water in the motor. Nobody made any attempt to get any of the water out. There was at least 2 gallons of water in the motor.
If the oil in your motor looks clean, add a quart of ATF to the oil. Remove the distributor. Be careful not to drop the 5/16" hex shaft that drives the oil pump. It can drop all the way down into the pan, so be very careful when you lift the distributor out. Use the hex shaft and an electric drill to run the oil pump (drill must run in reverse). Remove the valve covers so you can see what's going on. The ATF will attract the water and turn pink. Drain the oil, change the filter, put new oil in with a quart of ATF (use the cheapest oil you can get). Run the pump with a drill motor again.
I went to NAPA and got 20 quarts of the cheapest SAE 20 oil and 4 quarts of the cheapest ATF and 4 of the cheapest filters they had. I ran all of the oil through the motor changing the oil and filter after about 20 minutes of running with the drill motor after each change.
The oil looked clean after all of the above. I took the spark plugs out and squirted Mobil 1 oil in each of the cylinders. I let the motor set a couple days with the Mobil 1 in the cylinders, then turned it over, first with a breaker bar then with the starter. I checked the comperssion (best was about 130 psi worst was 115 psi). I put a set of used plugs in it and fired it up. Had to replace the coil and carb. It had 60 psi oil pressure.
I gave the motor to a nephew who put it in his jet boat. He ran it one season and had to replace it because the block was cracked. He found out only when he tried to get it bored for new pistons. It ran fine. He just wanted more speed.
He said there was a ring of pits in each cylinder where the water left a ring of rust. Blow-by was not exessive.
I should clarify that for this motor I have taken it all apart and will polish the crank and put in new bearings etc. It must have been rebuilt shortly before the pump blew because the cylinders still have hone marks. I just can't help thinking that if something had been done Like you described above, there would not be a need to do this now. However, I also discovered that some one was very gay with the RTV and almost managed to seal the water inlets at the waterpump cover. I'm glad I pulled it apart cause I probably would have had heat problems if I had left it.
When I sunk mines, I used diesel fuel through the motor and truned the oil pump over to get the water out. Then I filled with oil and did it again. Then I drained that oil, used some more oil and fired it. I have had no porblems with my motor from the water. I did loose my dizzy though.
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