Solid Roller lifter life? and valve lash

[JMC]

I have 50 hours on my Crane Rollers. How many hours do you guys run yours before checking them? I have read some guys swap them every season. I would really like to get more than 50 hours out of them but
Also, I have had a couple of engine builders tell me to run the valves at .026 for intake and exhaust but the actual builder for this engine says to set them at .018 to .020 . Can someone tell me how this difference will affect the longevity and performance?
I feel very fortunate to have this Blower Engine thread here. Lots of knowledge and wisdom from you guys! Thank you and Kudo's to ***boat

[Badburn]

I think roller lifters are the major weak link in the system. I have used mostly comp lifters, and mostly cams in the .750-.850 lift range with springs that are around 275 lbs on the seat new and about 200-225 after used. I have always had lifter problems after about 10-20 passes (1/4 mile). I will check the lash after about every 3 rd time to the track. If you find a rocker out of adjustment by more than a few hundredths- there is a problem, and you must find it. usually the rollers going bad. If you dont catch it in time, you will be rebuilding.
When the roller bearings in the lifter start to go bad the valve will go out of adjustment.
I also think if you keep the lift under .700 or so, it will greatly extend the lifter life. I am currently running the Isky red zone lifters, with a .680 or so cam. seems to be working well.
I would contact your cams manufacturer for lash specs, I think each grind is different.
Hope this helps, my experience in a nutshell. :rollside:

[Infomaniac]

Throw them away every season was the norm for quite some time. If you buy the latest greatest solid roller lifters that have pressure fed roller pins. Go ahead and run them several seasons. They are not real cheap.
And naturally I can fix you up with a set if interested.

[Hallett]

Throw them away every season was the norm for quite some time. If you buy the latest greatest solid roller lifters that have pressure fed roller pins. Go ahead and run them several seasons. They are not real cheap.
And naturally I can fix you up with a set if interested.
Hello info what lifter would you recommend that would be less
maintenance and whats the best.

[lucky]

Hello info what lifter would you recommend that would be less
maintenance and whats the best.
Since I Decided To MAKE mine a Pleasure /lake boat - and i never plan on running it over 6500- ( short burst ) I switched to a hyd- flat tappet cam with 600 " lift and ya know the sob ran all year ??
I had 715 roller with 300 lbs of seat pressure and Old style rollers -- due to the idle zone i had and the fact the dam motor had restictors I bought the motor fresh out of a nosltogic rail - and paid the price as idle and roller isn't the best combo
I believe a "driven " boat With less maintence , would require hyd rollers .. They just don't offer huge lift !

[TIMINATOR]

A jet LAKE BOAT that turns 5800 rpm or less will work quite well with 175 lbs on the seat and 450 or so over the nose. There is no need to spring a roller (or flat tappet) cam with pressure to run 7000 rpm if it will never see it. I have run numerous street/strip cars and at least 3 dozen drag only motors with this poundage, I build torque motors mostly, but the rpms are as high as 6500 and they work fine. I used to believe the cam companys recomendations, but have come to realize that all of that is "cover my butt" thinking. Thats on valve/piston clearances too. P.S. You will make more HP with less spring pressure too, and the whole valvetrain will last much longer. I have done MUCH back to back testing on pressures and with QUALITY cams from large manufacturer, (Comp), they will run with less pressure than cams from lesser companys. This is due to a higher quality ramp transistion and better quality finishing. P.S. my 7.72@174.6 mph dragster(super E) ran 170 lbs on the seat too! I ran it for 2 1/2 YEARS and only ran the valves 3 times. The 21 Daytona (113mph) ran the same springs and valvetrain stuff for three + seasons. I ran the valves once a season.The dragster and Daytona run complete Comp Cams valvegear. I was given a set of Isky springs to try from their rep at the PRI show, they lasted for 4 months on the Daytona. Your results may vary. P.P.S. Crane did NOT warrenty the hydraulic roller in the 25 Daytona that the distributor gear end broke off of the cam. I can post the spring and Cam pics if anyone wants to see them. I run Comp exclusively, you should run what you have had the best results with. TIMINATOR

[Infomaniac]

Hello info what lifter would you recommend that would be less
maintenance and whats the best.
The Morel lifter is the best one. They make them for a number of big name companies. Not sure if the Isky is theirs or not. But a few offer pressure fed pin solid roller lifters. That is the cure for idle oil starving.

[TIMINATOR]

Shubeck makes the ultimate roller lifter, it is PRICEY!!!!!!! TIMINATOR

[cstraub]

The Morel lifter is the best one. They make them for a number of big name companies. Not sure if the Isky is theirs or not. But a few offer pressure fed pin solid roller lifters. That is the cure for idle oil starving.
I'll second Info on this. The new ultra pro from Morel is top notch. The pressure fed oiling to the needle bearings will keep you from hammering out the bearings during low rpm wake speed cruising.

[paradigm shift]

Hey guys since we seem to have some good information going here I have a question. I have heard that you can run a solid roller lifter on a hydraulic grind and it will perform better than if you ran hydraulic roller lifter and be easier on parts. Rumor and myth or is there any truth?
Thanks. :skull: