As unchained mentioned thanks for the information. I really have to get to work on this deal a little harder I just need to make some phone calls I guess. I really need to learn to read the turbo maps better. My only hold right now is deciding what turbos to go with. I almost bought the SuperT's but didn't after being told they weren't optimal. I have been told by a few folks supposedly in the know to look at the Garrett GT-42s so I have been looking around for deals. I just don't want to plop down $1800-$2500 on turbos without getting the right ones. Any more input on my combo would be super!
What is your combo? I know a 572ci chevy but what RPM range, heads, compression. Details please.
Two HKS GT or GT2 wastegates would work just fine. I agree I would O-ring and reciever groove the heads anyway.
TurboNova sorta took that wastegate quote out of context. I was refering to the small T-4 turbine section on the super-T turbos needing to dump a bunch of gas overboard. Anyway good luck Hipshot you've got some decisions to make on rpm, boost, fuel requirement and ultimate hp you want to make.
Hi TurboNova, the only parts of the combo I have right now are a new Donovan aluminum "marine anodized" block with 4.625" bore, Sonny Bryant billet 4.25" crank and Steve Schmidt Pro-Filer 12 degree spread port heads with 2.400"int. 1.880"ext. valves. That is all I have to build around right now. I am trying to figure the best combonation as far as pistons/comp ratio, rods and rod length. I have a set of brand new gold coated CP pistons but they are too high compression for this deal as I want it to be a pump gas friendly motor because it will mostly be run on 91-93 octane fuel. I will run Oliver billet rods but I don't know for sure what length yet. Also am planning a solid roller valve train with Jesel shaft rockers and belt drive. I haven't bought anymore parts yet because I am trying to research this turbo stuff and see if it's requirements are different than any other forced induction motor. My gut tells me it shouldn't be different but I have been wrong before.I would like to see the motor do it's thing by 6300-6600rpm, and I don't have any magical horsepower number in mind. I just want to make as much power as I can and it be somewhat liveable and reliable. As stated above, it will be run on pump gas. I would like the ability to crank up the boost, put race gas in it and wring it's neck occaisionally though. Any and all help is welcomed.
Rick Head at Innovative Turbo is another good source. He was the performance brainchild at Turbonetics, then opened his own business.
Sharp guy, and good friend.
805-526-5400
Hi TurboNova, the only parts of the combo I have right now are a new Donovan aluminum "marine anodized" block with 4.625" bore, Sonny Bryant billet 4.25" crank and Steve Schmidt Pro-Filer 12 degree spread port heads with 2.400"int. 1.880"ext. valves. That is all I have to build around right now. I am trying to figure the best combonation as far as pistons/comp ratio, rods and rod length. I have a set of brand new gold coated CP pistons but they are too high compression for this deal as I want it to be a pump gas friendly motor because it will mostly be run on 91-93 octane fuel. I will run Oliver billet rods but I don't know for sure what length yet. Also am planning a solid roller valve train with Jesel shaft rockers and belt drive. I haven't bought anymore parts yet because I am trying to research this turbo stuff and see if it's requirements are different than any other forced induction motor. My gut tells me it shouldn't be different but I have been wrong before.I would like to see the motor do it's thing by 6300-6600rpm, and I don't have any magical horsepower number in mind. I just want to make as much power as I can and it be somewhat liveable and reliable. As stated above, it will be run on pump gas. I would like the ability to crank up the boost, put race gas in it and wring it's neck occaisionally though. Any and all help is welcomed.
Hipshot...weren't you talking to Garry Snow about a Stealth or Cheyenne or somehting? I thought you were from Texas. :idea:
Nope, not I steelcomp. I am looking for a 21' Daytona or 21' Phantom. I live in Temple, Oklahoma. I used to live in South Padre for a while though.
I have an almost identical need for the same info you a looking for. I to have a brand new keith black olds aluminum block, and new callies 4.25 magnum blower crank. I do want to run the oliver rods and as you, are not sure on compression or rod length yet. Please hurry up and get it figured out. I talked to TURBO NOVA about setup and he seems to think i can get away with the cast iron turbo housings, but i'm not quite sure about that under the hatch. I have run the gentry water jacketed housings before and i agree that taking away heat can reduce power output, but carson says he gets 1670 hp on 110 octane on a 557 bbc with gentry water esxhausts and water turbo housings. That should be enough shouldnt it. I dont need any more than 1500 hp anyway and would rather keep it cool under hatch. They are very expensive though. I will probably buy the efi and other stuff from TURBO NOVA when i get the total price on what the water jacketed stuff will costs exactly. I need to make power up to 72-7500 before it lays down too bad. Hope turbo nova can help me get the thing to launch from idle with the larger turbos carson uses with his turbo housings.
Hi TurboNova, the only parts of the combo I have right now are a new Donovan aluminum "marine anodized" block with 4.625" bore, Sonny Bryant billet 4.25" crank and Steve Schmidt Pro-Filer 12 degree spread port heads with 2.400"int. 1.880"ext. valves. That is all I have to build around right now. I am trying to figure the best combonation as far as pistons/comp ratio, rods and rod length. I have a set of brand new gold coated CP pistons but they are too high compression for this deal as I want it to be a pump gas friendly motor because it will mostly be run on 91-93 octane fuel. I will run Oliver billet rods but I don't know for sure what length yet. Also am planning a solid roller valve train with Jesel shaft rockers and belt drive. I haven't bought anymore parts yet because I am trying to research this turbo stuff and see if it's requirements are different than any other forced induction motor. My gut tells me it shouldn't be different but I have been wrong before.I would like to see the motor do it's thing by 6300-6600rpm, and I don't have any magical horsepower number in mind. I just want to make as much power as I can and it be somewhat liveable and reliable. As stated above, it will be run on pump gas. I would like the ability to crank up the boost, put race gas in it and wring it's neck occaisionally though. Any and all help is welcomed.
This stuff all sounds familiar, did I already talk to you on the phone?
The best combo is a big bore short stroke. When I was building my 406 I had a tall deck, long rod engine. Harry the owner or Precision Turbo and Engine said it really didn't matter. I was looking into a 383,377,406 or 434 and we decided the 406 would be best because of not having to use custom pistons ect. With the turbo that I put on my 406 (101mm) I would have just ended up spining the rpms more with the smaller cubic inch combos.
Bottom line is use what you got, a longer rod would be nice but not at the sacrifice of pushing the piston pin too far up on the piston. A good ring pack is very important and what you will get from a better rod ratio isn't worth it. A shorter stroke might be better but you already have a crank. Don't go over 9.5:1 compression, building a turbo engine is very similar to a blower engine execpt the cam. I would either O-ring the block and head use copper SCE gaskets or use Cometic gaskets without an O-ring depending on how much boost you are going to run. Use hellfire rings, I have been using JE pistons but there are other choices out there. An aluminum rod is a good choice. Belt drive and Jessel is the way to go. For cams we have been using Cam Motion or Comp and have been very happy with both. How about an intake manifold? A single 105mm throttle body will work just fine. If I haven't already talked to you I can send you a parts list of proven parts that work.
I have an almost identical need for the same info you a looking for. I to have a brand new keith black olds aluminum block, and new callies 4.25 magnum blower crank. I do want to run the oliver rods and as you, are not sure on compression or rod length yet. Please hurry up and get it figured out. I talked to TURBO NOVA about setup and he seems to think i can get away with the cast iron turbo housings, but i'm not quite sure about that under the hatch. I have run the gentry water jacketed housings before and i agree that taking away heat can reduce power output, but carson says he gets 1670 hp on 110 octane on a 557 bbc with gentry water esxhausts and water turbo housings. That should be enough shouldnt it. I dont need any more than 1500 hp anyway and would rather keep it cool under hatch. They are very expensive though. I will probably buy the efi and other stuff from TURBO NOVA when i get the total price on what the water jacketed stuff will costs exactly. I need to make power up to 72-7500 before it lays down too bad. Hope turbo nova can help me get the thing to launch from idle with the larger turbos carson uses with his turbo housings.
Carson uses on center housings which aren't very good exhaust housings but I don't doubt that he makes that kind of power with a 557. I agree it might be a problem in a closed cover compartment, I still think we could shield the exhaust housings and wrap the exhaust. Most drag cars have their exhaust housings within a couple of inches of the fiberglass hoods and have no problems. Carson's bigger turbos are GT42 with his water jacket housings which I still think is too small for that size of engine, close but not enough. The other choice he had was two 60-1s but they are way too small for a big block of that size. We can make that thing launch there are a number of ways. With a GT42 and the traditional housing that it comes with, it would be no problem. With the water cooled on center housing it might take some work.
I have not talked to you on the phone yet, but I will be dialing you up in about 30 minutes on my lunch hour.
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