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Thread: How much for a professional carb rebuild???

  1. #1
    mile2885
    I was given an estimate of around $300 for a complete rebuild on a Holley 4160. Does this sound like a lot to anybody else?????

  2. #2
    Beer-30
    Add a grand to that $300, and throw the carb away. No more rebuilds.
    http://www.holley.com/products.asp?product=950-21S

  3. #3
    maxwedge
    I was given an estimate of around $300 for a complete rebuild on a Holley 4160. Does this sound like a lot to anybody else?????
    Yep sounds like a lot to me. That's why If it were me I would go to the local parts store, spend the 10-20 bucks on a rebuild kit (they come with instructions) and some carb cleaner and do it myself. Grab "The Holley Caburator Manual" for another $15 if you are a non-mechanical person. Just read and follow the steps. Just takes patience and a few hours if you go slow. That way, you know it's done right, and you learn a usefull skill! Also, as an added bonus, your wife will probably bitch that you smell like carb cleaner and will leave you alone in the garage for the rest of the day! :rollside:

  4. #4
    maxwedge
    Add a grand to that $300, and throw the carb away. No more rebuilds.
    http://www.holley.com/products.asp?product=950-21S
    No More rebuilds, my ass. If that's anything like their old Pro-jection systems, its going to eat fuel pumps, injectors, and controllers like they are going outta style. Besides for a few more bucks you can buy, or better yet build your own multi-port system. Maybe their quality got better, because the price sure didn't.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    678
    I was given an estimate of around $300 for a complete rebuild on a Holley 4160. Does this sound like a lot to anybody else?????
    i agree with Maxwedge...go get the kit & re-build it urself...u dont need to spend the $$ for the manual...the kit comes with complete instructions...Holley carbs are so easy to do that a 10 yr old can do it! lol ...seriously tho...they are really easy...if u have the List#...i or someone on here can help u with the proper pv's, jets etc & u might not even need a kit...just my .02 cents
    fastrat
    p.s. once u do 1...all the rest u ever do are really easy

  6. #6
    mile2885
    Ya, I think all it needs is jets. With the new motor, the boat is running rich. My plugs are black and you can see the black smoke. I rebuilt the carb in the spring but that was set up for the old motor. I went to modified large oval heads, RPM-Air gap manifold and a slightly bigger cam. How do I know what jet size to use? Is it mainly trial and error?

  7. #7
    Gearhead
    if you still have the carb on the engine, check the vacuum at idle. What you may need is a lower number (vacuum) power valve. A camshaft with more seat timing will lower the vacuum at idle and cause the power valve to open. Depending on the model (List #) the Holley carbs with power valves come with a 65, 85 or 105 power valve. These power valves open at 6.5", 8.5" and 10.5" respectively. If you have an 85 power valve, but your vacuum dips below this at idle it will definately slug out, black smoke and kill plugs. Put a PV in with a number 1 ot 2 below your vacuum.
    What jet are you running now and what is the list#. I or someone on here can look to see if you are in the general correct range for your carb and engine.
    What is the engine size and cam specs?

  8. #8
    Gearhead
    One other thing about idle quality and response. When you remove the carburetor, take if off without changing any of the settings. Flip it over and look to see where your throttle blades are in relation to the slot in the baseplate. If the blade is open more than a quarter or 1/2 way up the slot, then you are not getting enough idle air and you may be idling on the main circuit. To remedy this, one can drill about a .100" hole in the throttle blade to allow additional air and the lowering of the blade in relation to the transitions slot.
    Also check your float level if you have not done so. All of this needs to be done prior to considering jet changes.

  9. #9
    Beer-30
    No More rebuilds, my ass. If that's anything like their old Pro-jection systems, its going to eat fuel pumps, injectors, and controllers like they are going outta style. Besides for a few more bucks you can buy, or better yet build your own multi-port system. Maybe their quality got better, because the price sure didn't.
    Nope, all new stuff. Digital controller, next-gen pumps. Nice stuff. No more gumming up, blown powervalves, off-idle stumble, easy cold starts, etc., etc.

  10. #10
    mile2885
    Thanks for the info gearhead. I know that the power valve was changed so that could be it. The floats were adjusted on the lake before I blew my engine. The new motor has a Comp cam 280AH so I don't think it's hot by any means. The specs are as follows:
    280/288 Advertised Duration
    Duration @ .050" 232/237
    Valve lift .547/.547 with 1.7 rocker ratio
    Lobe seperation angle 110 degrees
    RPM operating range 2400-6400
    I'll see what kind of vacuum I’m pulling.

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