Reply With QuoteGOT ANYMORE PICS OF YOUR BOAT, smoked?
Can someone give some pointers on making one? Took on way to much water last summer...
How does one keep it level all around the hull with the different contours?
I'm in need of one myself, I figure, I make a plywood template of the top of the deck radius, and one of the lower part of the gunnel, or what ever the terms is? Then fabricate spacers, and attach both the upper and lower in the proper positions. After this is completed, wrap the template with, with some thin masonite, or similar material, and there I will have a mold. Lexan would be my choice of material too, then apply heat to the material, and start forming. One shape has been achived, trim to desired shape, sand and polish edges to desired luster..Now to get off my A$$ and do it!!
Sleek
GOT ANYMORE PICS OF YOUR BOAT, smoked?
Oops. My Bad. Northern California, Sacto area.
Wayne Earl will ship. They have all the molds. They did one for me and it fit perfect.
Made mine out of thin gage sheet aluminum.
I'm in need of one myself, I figure, I make a plywood template of the top of the deck radius, and one of the lower part of the gunnel, or what ever the terms is? Then fabricate spacers, and attach both the upper and lower in the proper positions. After this is completed, wrap the template with, with some thin masonite, or similar material, and there I will have a mold. Lexan would be my choice of material too, then apply heat to the material, and start forming. One shape has been achived, trim to desired shape, sand and polish edges to desired luster..Now to get off my A$$ and do it!!
Sleek
Good idea as it will give you something to clamp to as your heating the material. BUUUUT, once you skin your templates, you will have changed the dimensions of your initial template, and your "mold" will be the size of the part you need. Anything you bend around the "mold" will be larger than the area the mold was pulled from and the piece wont fit. If you are going to use this method, determine the thickness of your skin material (masonite etc)AND the thickness of your actual material, then subract that width from from the perimeter of your patterns. Once you have transfered the new smaller pattern and skinned it you'll be good to go. Then you will be molding the part back to the orriginal dimension inside the hull.
I hope that made sense,
Chris
Chris
Good idea as it will give you something to clamp to as your heating the material. BUUUUT, once you skin your templates, you will have changed the dimensions of your initial template, and your "mold" will be the size of the part you need. Anything you bend around the "mold" will be larger than the area the mold was pulled from and the piece wont fit. If you are going to use this method, determine the thickness of your skin material (masonite etc)AND the thickness of your actual material, then subract that width from from the perimeter of your patterns. Once you have transfered the new smaller pattern and skinned it you'll be good to go. Then you will be molding the part back to the orriginal dimension inside the hull.
I hope that made sense,
Chris
Chris
YES great observation, I think, I would have caught that on my second attempt. lol....... I forgot to mention that, subtract the thickness of your skin material and your splash guard material. thanks Chris
Sleek
Well my idea was to get a piece of lexan about, I dont know, say 10" high. Measure the distance from about 3/4 way up the motor to the rear, then across the rear and back up the other side and make a piece from that measurement. Round the corners first, then find the center of the hull in the back and the center of the lexan and start a screw there. Then I was going to work my way out each side using a heat gun in the corners and fastening as I go. Im not going to worry about what the contour is doing to the height of the shield. Once its all fastened in, I was going to use a router with a jig on it to follow the hull to make the height all uniform all the way around, say 4-5". Then hit the rough edges with a torch to dull the sharp edges and give it a finished shine.
Am I on the right track here?
Well my idea was to get a piece of lexan about, I dont know, say 10" high. Measure the distance from about 3/4 way up the motor to the rear, then across the rear and back up the other side and make a piece from that measurement. Round the corners first, then find the center of the hull in the back and the center of the lexan and start a screw there. Then I was going to work my way out each side using a heat gun in the corners and fastening as I go. Im not going to worry about what the contour is doing to the height of the shield. Once its all fastened in, I was going to use a router with a jig on it to follow the hull to make the height all uniform all the way around, say 4-5". Then hit the rough edges with a torch to dull the sharp edges and give it a finished shine.
Am I on the right track here?
Flame polishing acrylic is a nice way to do the edges, but it has it's drawbacks. It will leave the material succeptable to severe crazing if it comes in contact with certain chemicals... Alcohol based cleaners would be one of those chemicals. The router will leave a clean enough edge, that sanding and polishing will be good enough for what you are doing. On your bend as you go method, get a big piece of 4-6" metal pipe to distribute the weight as you bend into the corners. Otherwise you'll more than likely crease/crack the material.
Chris
Chris
Flame polishing acrylic is a nice way to do the edges, but it has it's drawbacks. It will leave the material succeptable to severe crazing if it comes in contact with certain chemicals... Alcohol based cleaners would be one of those chemicals. The router will leave a clean enough edge, that sanding and polishing will be good enough for what you are doing. On your bend as you go method, get a big piece of 4-6" metal pipe to distribute the weight as you bend into the corners. Otherwise you'll more than likely crease/crack the material.
Chris
Chris
Thanks for the tips Chris. Sounds like I'm going to go with that route unless someone posts something better.
Made mine out of thin gage sheet aluminum.
lets see some pics of urs?...i like the alum idea better than plastic or lexan
fastrat
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