Reply With QuoteSure, depending on who you talk to, or a sonic test, they are good for .100 or .125 overbore. I ran a 505 cu in turbocharged race engine for years with no problems(4.350" bore 4.250" stroke)
I have a couple of old bbc 427 tall blocks out of school busses. Are these blocks worth useing as a start for a stroker motor?
Sure, depending on who you talk to, or a sonic test, they are good for .100 or .125 overbore. I ran a 505 cu in turbocharged race engine for years with no problems(4.350" bore 4.250" stroke)
Just make sure they are 427 and not 366's. Bore size should be 4.250.
Would a 454 block be a better start to a stroker over the 427 tall block?
Depends on what you wanna do but as a general answer I'd go with the tall block for the better rod angle.
Depends on what you wanna do but as a general answer I'd go with the tall block for the better rod angle.
I 2nd that.
Lots of guys run standard decks with 4.250" cranks, but I prefer the longer rod if I can. Only other differences in a tall deck will be intake or use of spacer plates with standard intake, pushrod length, and distributor, if you don't use one of the tall deck intakes that accepts a standard length distributor. If you are starting from scratch, it shouldn't affect your total cost much.
Or you can just use a 4 inch crank and a .400 long rod and use stock pin location for a 454. You pick up the rod angle and use a very available shelf piston. That's the combo I ran for many years in the roadster and the Fiat. Cheap thrill.
I was a firm believer in long rod and good rod stroke ratio for many years. I believe it still necessary with some applications where induction is limited or cylinder heads are undersized for the entended rpm range for the CID of the mill. In recent years in discussions with some of my contacts the importance of rod/stroke ratio has lowered on the scale of importance. Cylinder head cross section and CFM in comparison to the intended rpm range and CID tend to dictate what to use.
Or you can just use a 4 inch crank and a .400 long rod and use stock pin location for a 454. You pick up the rod angle and use a very available shelf piston. That's the combo I ran for many years in the roadster and the Fiat. Cheap thrill.
Fiat, I was going to go that route with a 427 block I had a while back. I mocked it up and it looked like I would have to do a bunch of clearancing on the block. Is that pretty much par with the 427 blocks?
I think that you may find that using the Chinese aftermarket rods, you may not have to grind the block at all. I recently assembled a 496 with an early 7.0, 427 block, nothing close to touching. Definately take the time to mock it up before you get the block all washed and ready for final assembly.
Posting Permissions