The gasket between my manifold and intercooler keeps weaping fuel out of the back just above the distributor. The rules say no silicone what should I do? I have changed the gasket once and am thinking of taking manifold and superchiller to a machine shop to have them checked and machined if needed. Anything I should try first?
That might be a good application for Hylomar. The stuff is about the consistency of silicone sealer but it never hardens. Some people have suggested using it on copper head gaskets but I tried it and it didn't work for shit. Intake manifolds and oil pan gaskets would be a good application for it though. The best feature is that the gaskets and parts can be easily separated.
Mark
I should have said that I tried Hylomar the last time. I too used it on my copper Head gaskets. Changed them out after 1 hour. I would not use hylomar for anything at this point. Thanks though.
Dustin
High Tack sealant made by permatex, comes in a spray,is resitant to gas and oils.This stuff is the best gasket sealer we have ever used.We use it on all gaskets in the shop.If you have any inperfections in the the surfaces use several thin coats and allow a couple minutes to get tacky. NEVER use silocone with a gasket.Hope this helps.
[This message has been edited by stressedout (edited July 11, 2002).]
I think you have the right idea in taking it to the machine shop. If the surfaces are warped no sealer will work for very long if at all. Im a ferm beliver if you use a gasket you don't need sealer. Have you ever scraped the gasket off in the past and by chance gouged one or both surfaces and the gasket won't seal the gouge? or use a scotch brite cleaning disc and staied in one spot to long?
Guys I've got the stuff. Have you ever heard of Gasgacinch?
I learned of it about 20 years ago at a shop I worked in. The owner was the Crew chief & engine builder for the Tahoe Miss Unlimited Hydro from the early sixties and he started me using it, as did our in house machinist who was schooled by Offenhauser on their Indy turbocharged 4-cyl engines. The machinist said it was so good that when used properly on one of their 4-cyl engines you could remove the head bolts and it would continue running without blowing the gasket! I have used this stuff for twenty years now & nothing seems to work as good for holding gaskets or O-rings in place. If you can find it try it & I bet you will never use anything else again for holding gaskets in place!
Does anyone actually check to see just what the water pressure is in their engines?--seems like everyone with copper gaskets can't get them to seal!!!--is the block or head o-ringed?---are the gaskets going away between the cylinders? or is coolant leaking into the cylinders?--can only relate to a friend with blown jet that was putting too much pressure(not to be confused with flow) into the jacket water and the holamar could not hold up--just curious and would like to identify if the gaskets are really a problem--
I have got the copper head gaskets to seal fine now with silicone sealer around the water ports. Held up fine since last year. No water in the oil. Cylinder pressure sealing has never been a problem.
I have a water pressure gauge at the line going into the block and have tried to keep it near 12lbs. but even with a water pressure bypass I still get too much pressure at high rpm (40 to 50 lbs.) I screwed a restrictor orifice (3/8") into the water line coming from the pump and that has helped. The difference between the water flow at idle and WOT is a tremendous amount.
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