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Thread: choosing a 540-598 engine questions

  1. #41
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    Busby, interesting combo there. I dont know if I have ever seen that before. Which makes it hard to put together a proven parts package. I would much rather copy someones sorted out BBC than try to figure out what will work the best for this combo.
    I have put toghether hundreds of motors but these guys are cutting edge and daily assemble Pro-Mod engines. I think they might be a little better at than me.
    Big bore, short stroke combinations like Brian was talking about are readily "proven" combinations. Well, at least among those who aren't interested in "bragging" numbers, or who think for themselves.
    Wow busby--- you are a mean person
    God Brian.........your such an ass. :crossx:
    Busby,Excellent post.
    That was a good post! I little more tecnical than I expected on an open post but all good points.
    Very good points for sure.
    I like this one best Scott:
    Ah, hell, Brian, WTF do we know?

  2. #42
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    Brian, that was a great post. I'd like to offer some of my experience, here if I may. While mechanically, you're dead on, there are other issues regarding rod length, and rod/stroke ratio "n" that play in, here, that I feel should be adressed. Not to say which is better or worse, as that debate has, and will go on forever, just offering more info. Mind you, some of this will be cut and paste to save me hours of typing.
    The length of the rod is less an issue than is the ratio. There is a small range of ratios for most conventional piston engines: the rod is going to be between roughly 1.4 and 2.2 times the stroke length. The rod can't be the same length as the stroke, and rods much longer than twice the stroke make the motor very tall, and, although used for racing,
    aren't real practical. A greater rod angle will occur by installing a shorter rod or by increasing the stroke (smaller value of “n”). A reduced angle will occur with a longer rod or a shorter stroke. (larger value of “n”) When the “n” ratio value becomes smaller, it has several effects. This is a brief summary of the mechanical effects.
    (here's the cut and paste)
    Motors with low values of “n” (proportionately short rods or long strokes) typically exhibit the following characteristics (compared to high “n” motors):
    » physically shorter top-to-bottom & left-to-right (more oil pan, header, and air cleaner clearance)
    » lower block weight (short deck vs. tall deck)
    » higher level of vibration
    » shorter pistons, measured from the pin center to the bottom of the skirt
    » greater wear on piston skirts and cylinder walls
    » slightly higher operating temperature & oil temperature due to friction
    There are also differences in how the motor breathes:
    » intake vacuum rises sooner ATDC, allowing bigger carburetors or intake port runner & plenum volumes to be used without loss of response
    » on the negative side, a small or badly designed port will “run out of breath” sooner
    » piston motion away from BDC is slower, trapping a higher percentage of cylinder volume, making the motor less sensitive to late intake valve closing (hot cams)
    Spark advance is also affected:
    » earlier timing (more advance) is required, as the chamber volume is larger (piston is farther from TDC) at the same point of rotation
    » the motor may also be less knock-sensitive, as the chamber volume increases more rapidly ATDC, lowering combustion pressure (this is useful for nitrous & supercharged motors)
    Here's some pros and cons regarding long vs/ short rod. (more cut and paste)
    Long rods
    Pro:
    » Provides longer piston dwell time at & near TDC, which maintains a longer state of compression by keeping the chamber volume small. This has obvious benefits: better combustion, higher cylinder pressure after the first few degrees of rotation past TDC, and higher temperatures within the combustion chamber. This type of rod will produce very good mid to upper RPM torque.
    » The longer rod will reduce friction within the engine, due to the reduced angle which will place less stress at the thrust surface of the piston during combustion. These rods work well with numerically high gear ratios and lighter vehicles.
    » For the same total deck height, a longer rod will use a shorter (and therefore lighter) piston, and generally have a safer maximum RPM.
    Con:
    » They do not promote good cylinder filling (volumetric efficiency) at low to moderate engine speeds due to reduced air flow velocity. After the first few degrees beyond TDC piston speed will increase in proportion to crank rotation, but will be biased by the connecting rod length. The piston will descend at a reduced rate and gain its maximum speed at a later point in the crankshaft’s rotation.
    » Longer rods have greater interference with the cylinder bottom & water jacket area, pan rails, pan, and camshaft - some combinations of stroke length & rod choice are not practical.
    Short rod
    Pro:
    » Provides very good intake and exhaust velocities at low to moderate engine speeds causing the engine to produce good low end torque, mostly due to the higher vacuum at the beginning of the intake cycle. The faster piston movement away from TDC of the intake stroke provides more displacement under the valve at every point of crank rotation, increasing vacuum. High intake velocities also create a more homogenous (uniform) air/fuel mixture within the combustion chamber. This will produce greater power output due to this effect.
    » The increase in piston speed away from TDC on the power stroke causes the chamber volume to increase more rapidly than in a long-rod motor - this delays the point of maximum cylinder pressure for best effect with supercharger or turbo boost and/or nitrous oxide.
    » Cam timing (especially intake valve closing) can be more radical than in a long-rod motor.
    Con:
    » Causes an increase in piston speed away from TDC which, at very high RPM, will out-run the flame front, causing a decrease in total cylinder pressure (Brake Mean Effective Pressure) at the end of the combustion cycle.
    » Due to the reduced dwell time of the piston at TDC the piston will descend at a faster rate with a reduction in cylinder pressure and temperature as compared to a long-rod motor. This will reduce total combustion.
    Now you know why you see more Fords (typically with "n" numbers in the 1.7 range like the 289, 302, 351W, 429/460) with smaller ports and carbs as compared to GM products, which have few engines with anything higher than 1.6. (The 327 has an "n" of 1.76, 396/427 has 1.61, and the 454 has a 1.53)
    I'll continue this more later.
    Ah hell Scott ... oh nevermind!

  3. #43
    steelcomp
    To continue this...
    The ratio of the 396/427 and 454 is borderlline practical for the street, and only make good power because of their big intake ports.
    Lets look at how rod length effects intake effeciency. An “n” value of 1.75 is considered “ideal” by some respected engine builders, if the breathing is optimized for the design. Except for purpose-built racing engines, most other projects are compromises where 1.75 may not produce the best results. There will be instances where the choice of stroke or rod has not been made, but the intake pieces (carburetor, manifold, and head) have been selected. Some discretion exists here for making the rod and/or stroke choice compatible with the existing intake. The “n” value can be used to compensate for less-than-perfect match of intake parts to motor size & speed. The reverse is also possible: the lower end is done, but there are still choices for the top end. Again, the “n” value can be used as a correction factor to better “match” the intake to the lower end.
    So, IN GENERAL, we can summarize that engines with Low “n” numbers (short rods in relation to stroke, between 1.45 - 1.75) will tend to like large intake port volume vs. motor size, they'll perfer single-plane or 360° intake manifolds, large carburetor vs. engine size, moderate engine speed, and if we were talking cars, taller axle ratios. On the other hand, enginrs with higer "n" numbers (longer rods in relation to stroke, beteween 1.75-2.1) will be more compatible with small intake port volume vs. motor size, they'll like dual-plane 180° intake manifolds, small carburetors vs. engine size, and higher engine speeds. Again. if we were talking cars, we'd be talking lower axle ratios, as well.
    I was also wondering about the rod angle info you posted. I was always told that the angle was figured with a crank at 90* ATDC. Are you getting your numbers at max thrust? (Rod at 90* to the journal...usually about 70-76 deg. crank rotation) To get the rod angle I'm familiar with, you use this formula: Stroke/ (rod length*2) = sin of rod angle. Then I just use a scientific calculator to get the angle. I think that anything above about 17* is asking for trouble, and is going to require a pretty strong rod and bolts. BB Chev. 396/427 is at 18*, and the 454 is 19*! There is a LOT of force on the major thrust surface of the piston in a BB Chev...one of the big draw backs of short rods. They need to be very strong w/ good bolts in any performance app. That's why the "big" dimple rods came w/ 7/16 Boron bolts. ONe of the reasons the 400 SBC was such a dog is due to it's 1.46 "n" and it's 20* rod angle. A 6" rod is a MUST for any performance 400 rebuild.
    OK...I'm done with this for now...I hope this helps shed some light on why certain packages work the way they do. I know it was a long read, and there's a lot more info on the subject, but in closing, let me say this. The most highly researched engine development program in any racing venue is, IMO, NHRA Pro Stock. The most successful Pro Stock motors out there are running a rod ratio in the area of 1:7:1. BIG bore, SHORT stroke, but with a rod ratio in that 1.7 range. Something to think about.

  4. #44
    steelcomp
    Sorry...couldn't resist. Gimme a break...I can't afford to use any of this stuff, so at least I can share it. Besides, you started it. LOL!!

  5. #45
    steelcomp
    Ah hell Scott ... oh nevermind! LOL!!

  6. #46
    cjordan
    Steelcomp:
    Excellent post! Here are the specs on my old 632"
    4.75" X 4.60" bore, 6.70" Rod...pistons were very short....I didn't build it just giving you the specs. Motor was good to 8200 according to the builder, but I never ran it anywhere near there.....6900 on the Dyno.

  7. #47
    Senior Member
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    Scott ... this is what is fun about posting with you ... being able to share information that some like to read ... but that I find in the lost notes in my brain ... things I don't use anymore ... sometimes a post comes up & BAM ... all of those trial engines and wasted $$$ from my past can help someone else ...
    Let's review what has been said:
    I have a Hallett flat bottom V-drive with a 396 BBC and runs about 85 MPH. I would like to get into the 110+ MPH area. After looking at adding power to my 396 I found this company
    If I did go with a big inch engine, am I ok with small heads (oval port, iron), new cam (solid) , Vic Jr intake and 850 Holley or Weiand tunnel ram (have one) with new carbs????
    As I can afford it I would be adding the correct power parts to fit the engines size. Not looking for a all out engine.
    So it seems that Jim wanted to get a bigger inch short block and use the rest of his package, w/o doing anything else other than maybe a intake and carb upgrade. Bad idea IMO.
    BTW...bigger is definately not better in a small boat like your flatty. Big bore, short stroke combinations like Brian was talking about are readily "proven" combinations. Well, at least among those who aren't interested in "bragging" numbers, or who think for themselves.
    I agree ... I think he was going after the #'s
    Short rod
    Pro:
    » Provides very good intake and exhaust velocities at low to moderate engine speeds causing the engine to produce good low end torque, mostly due to the higher vacuum at the beginning of the intake cycle. The faster piston movement away from TDC of the intake stroke provides more displacement under the valve at every point of crank rotation, increasing vacuum. High intake velocities also create a more homogenous (uniform) air/fuel mixture within the combustion chamber. This will produce greater power output due to this effect.
    » The increase in piston speed away from TDC on the power stroke causes the chamber volume to increase more rapidly than in a long-rod motor - this delays the point of maximum cylinder pressure for best effect with supercharger or turbo boost and/or nitrous oxide.
    » Cam timing (especially intake valve closing) can be more radical than in a long-rod motor.
    Con:
    » Causes an increase in piston speed away from TDC which, at very high RPM, will out-run the flame front, causing a decrease in total cylinder pressure (Brake Mean Effective Pressure) at the end of the combustion cycle.
    » Due to the reduced dwell time of the piston at TDC the piston will descend at a faster rate with a reduction in cylinder pressure and temperature as compared to a long-rod motor. This will reduce total combustion.
    I think even with the con's ... the short stroke/short rod would best suit his needs ... 3.76" crank/6.135" rod/427 4.5" bore piston ... a VERY reliable pump gas motor ... with a great powerband ... great for a quick reving
    in closing, let me say this. The most highly researched engine development program in any racing venue is, IMO, NHRA Pro Stock. The most successful Pro Stock motors out there are running a rod ratio in the area of 1:7:1. BIG bore, SHORT stroke, but with a rod ratio in that 1.7 range. Something to think about.
    I was trying to get him "off the shelf" parts for a budget build from a proven package ... bus I agree with this last quote ... BIG BORE/SHORT STROKE
    But like you said:
    Ah, hell, Brian, WTF do we know?

  8. #48
    Carnivalride
    To continue this...
    The ratio of the 396/427 and 454 is borderlline practical for the street, and only make good power because of their big intake ports.
    Lets look at how rod length effects intake effeciency. An “n” value of 1.75 is considered “ideal” by some respected engine builders, if the breathing is optimized for the design. Except for purpose-built racing engines, most other projects are compromises where 1.75 may not produce the best results. There will be instances where the choice of stroke or rod has not been made, but the intake pieces (carburetor, manifold, and head) have been selected. Some discretion exists here for making the rod and/or stroke choice compatible with the existing intake. The “n” value can be used to compensate for less-than-perfect match of intake parts to motor size & speed. The reverse is also possible: the lower end is done, but there are still choices for the top end. Again, the “n” value can be used as a correction factor to better “match” the intake to the lower end.
    So, IN GENERAL, we can summarize that engines with Low “n” numbers (short rods in relation to stroke, between 1.45 - 1.75) will tend to like large intake port volume vs. motor size, they'll perfer single-plane or 360° intake manifolds, large carburetor vs. engine size, moderate engine speed, and if we were talking cars, taller axle ratios. On the other hand, enginrs with higer "n" numbers (longer rods in relation to stroke, beteween 1.75-2.1) will be more compatible with small intake port volume vs. motor size, they'll like dual-plane 180° intake manifolds, small carburetors vs. engine size, and higher engine speeds. Again. if we were talking cars, we'd be talking lower axle ratios, as well.
    I was also wondering about the rod angle info you posted. I was always told that the angle was figured with a crank at 90* ATDC. Are you getting your numbers at max thrust? (Rod at 90* to the journal...usually about 70-76 deg. crank rotation) To get the rod angle I'm familiar with, you use this formula: Stroke/ (rod length*2) = sin of rod angle. Then I just use a scientific calculator to get the angle. I think that anything above about 17* is asking for trouble, and is going to require a pretty strong rod and bolts. BB Chev. 396/427 is at 18*, and the 454 is 19*! There is a LOT of force on the major thrust surface of the piston in a BB Chev...one of the big draw backs of short rods. They need to be very strong w/ good bolts in any performance app. That's why the "big" dimple rods came w/ 7/16 Boron bolts. ONe of the reasons the 400 SBC was such a dog is due to it's 1.46 "n" and it's 20* rod angle. A 6" rod is a MUST for any performance 400 rebuild.
    OK...I'm done with this for now...I hope this helps shed some light on why certain packages work the way they do. I know it was a long read, and there's a lot more info on the subject, but in closing, let me say this. The most highly researched engine development program in any racing venue is, IMO, NHRA Pro Stock. The most successful Pro Stock motors out there are running a rod ratio in the area of 1:7:1. BIG bore, SHORT stroke, but with a rod ratio in that 1.7 range. Something to think about.
    Seems like my original thought wasn't too far off from this.
    [QUOTE=Carnivalride]
    Out of curiosity why did you recommend the 6.135” long rod for this 479cid deal? I looked at doing something similar to this and was going to use a 6.385” long rod and 1.520” wrist pin height pistons (stock rod 4.25 stroke) to save a little weight and cash (off the shelf pistons). If I figured right you would still have .012” to deck the block for a “zero” deck height. Do you not like changing the rod ratio from 1.629 to 1.695 or is there some other reason I didn’t consider? Just asking.
    Loren
    [QUOTE]
    [QUOTE=steelcomp]
    Sorry...couldn't resist. Gimme a break...I can't afford to use any of this stuff, so at least I can share it. Besides, you started it. LOL!!
    [QUOTE=steelcomp]
    Hey I ressemble that remark! :cry: :cry:

  9. #49
    fc-pilot
    Now I will screw everything up. The real problem is both theories have merit and can add power if the combo is built around these facts. The problem arises when they go with one of the theories and then can't tune the dang engine and comes back and tries to blame someone on the board because he did what "that one guy" said. I usually try not to get too deep with guys because half the time they are not ready to take it all in. (It took me twenty something years to take in what I know, and I am just starting to get a small grasp). I do have to say that I have enjoyed reading your posts. Thanks.
    Paul

  10. #50
    Carnivalride
    Now I will screw everything up. The real problem is both theories have merit and can add power if the combo is built around these facts. The problem arises when they go with one of the theories and then can't tune the dang engine and comes back and tries to blame someone on the board because he did what "that one guy" said. I usually try not to get too deep with guys because half the time they are not ready to take it all in. (It took me twenty something years to take in what I know, and I am just starting to get a small grasp). I do have to say that I have enjoyed reading your posts. Thanks.
    Paul
    Paul,
    Here's the deal as I see it. This is an open thread asking for information and ideas, most people (I believe) will try to give you what they consider "good" information. Now it's up to you to research this information and ideas to decide if YOU think its feasible.
    IMO..... IT is my boat the ultimate decisions concerning, safety, performance and expenditures lies on ME not someone who posted (I hope others have this attitude as well). I am not paying for this information nor do I know the creditials of most of these forum participants. So I have to use my past experience and best judgment with this as well as any information I look at. Since I am financially challenged on my boat project I usually have way more time to read and research ideas than to ever test them.
    Besides I said I had considered a combination similar to this, but my budget only allowed I rebuild using my best 454 block, crank and heads coupled with a few well thought out aftermarket peices. 479/492 requires an aftermarket or at least 502 block for about the same price I could put a set of aluminum heads on my 467. Which is better, I'll probably never know but I know I couldn't afford/justify either an aftermarket block and aluminum heads for my lake race/bracket boat.
    I just enjoy hearing input from others especially when it was along the lines of something that I wanted to try.
    Just my .02,
    Loren

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