How do you hone or machine the inside of a harmonic balancer with the key slot?
Any machinists out there that can help me out I would really appreciate it
Thats a tricky one I am told. I believe there is a certain or special hone for keywayed holes ??
You could always set it up on a mill,indicate the head then use a boring head and take half a thou off, Ive seen it done before by a really good machinist.
I think it can be done on a lathe but it has to be within .0009 to .0012 press fit.I'm not a machinist but it seems like it would chatter like a beeyotch.
It depends on how well it was done when made. Trying to hold those numbers on a lathe Could be tough because there is a good chance the ID/OD will run out more than your numbers.(+/-.0003) I would try a bottle brush hone, or a Sunnen "real" hone, not a ck10 or what ever it is, but a manual hand held deal with the foot pedal for tension. How much you have to take out? Another possibilty is to grind (surface grinder) a piece of keystock to fit flush with the ID, then the stone(s) wouldn't hit a snag.......A NC or CNC mill could interpolate to those numbers, but it would depend on the indication of TRUE center while setting it up......and then sneaking up on the ID by lying about tool radius until you start taking .0001s. AND you would need an accurate (calibrated) bore gage, or an air comparator,master ring, and probe to measure it that closely. You're talking +/- .0003, not alot of ways to fudge that number........A CMM could measure it, but only after you removed it from the machine you're cutting it on........Even with a hone, you still have to measure it..................MP
How do you hone or machine the inside of a harmonic balancer with the key slot?
Any machinists out there that can help me out I would really appreciate it
What are you trying to do first.The bore can be machined or i.d ground
If it's is just rusty clean it emery paper.
I had to bore out one before because it was too tight of a press fit. Bored it on the lathe.You just need to indicate to be true.Not a easy job .
Also need the right tool to cut with.
It depends on how well it was done when made. Trying to hold those numbers on a lathe Could be tough because there is a good chance the ID/OD will run out more than your numbers.(+/-.0003) I would try a bottle brush hone, or a Sunnen "real" hone, not a ck10 or what ever it is, but a manual hand held deal with the foot pedal for tension. How much you have to take out? Another possibilty is to grind (surface grinder) a piece of keystock to fit flush with the ID, then the stone(s) wouldn't hit a snag.......A NC or CNC mill could interpolate to those numbers, but it would depend on the indication of TRUE center while setting it up......and then sneaking up on the ID by lying about tool radius until you start taking .0001s. AND you would need an accurate (calibrated) bore gage, or an air comparator,master ring, and probe to measure it that closely. You're talking +/- .0003, not alot of ways to fudge that number........A CMM could measure it, but only after you removed it from the machine you're cutting it on........Even with a hone, you still have to measure it..................MP
Yeah, all that, and at what temperature?? You might find true center, but you'd have to check the Z axis as well, knowing damn well that the face isn't any where near square to the c/l.
You might as well just stick a piece of keyway stock flush in the slot, like Ray said, and hold the thing in your hand and hone away. You could measure it with a dial bore ga. that reads tenths.
Why do you ned to hone it anyway?
I have never heard of anyone honing the inside of a dampener.It seems to me that this is something that the manufacturer would do before they cut the key slot.Anything that you cant clean up with some sand paper then I would think that something is not machined properly.You should never have to file fit a dampener.
It's an ATI damper that needs .002+- taken off to fit my crankshaft.It stated in their instruction sheet that for stock SBC and aftermarket cranks you need check and probably hone to have a press fit 0f .0009 to .0011.I was just wondering how the hell to do it with real precision.The key stock is an excellent idea.But I still dont know if I'm up to attempting it,maybe I'm making it a bigger deal than it is but I just want it right,and yeah why the fock would it fit ?nothing else does,just makes it soo much sweeter when it's done.
P.S. I am very happy with the ATI damper the quality is outstanding,I think It's my application that makes it a pain in the ass.
The proper way to fit it is to hone it on a rod hone machine. By someone that has done it before. We find that most aftermarket balancers are a little tight when used with a new crank. We do these all of the time. Find a competant shop and bring him the crank and balancer, let him measure both with HIS micrometers! It won't matter if his is off or not, you are looking for an interference fit. If you bring him the balancer and a dimension taken with your micrometer and both mics don't agree, you have problems. TIMINATOR
We have to hone most balancers to get the proper interference fit. ATI superdamper almost always needs honed. Not every crank snout is the same dimension.
Yep rod hone machine is the proper way.
In my home shop I successfully used a wheel brake cylinder hone. The keyway destroys the stones but it gets the job done.
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