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Thread: Set Back Pump Pics

  1. #1
    Anybody have any good detailed Pics of set back pumps and installation posibly?

  2. #2
    Ill dig up what I can. During the process of installation it was hard to take pics.

  3. #3
    Glencoe MiniDay
    Do you remember what steps you did to fill in the hole in the hole in the bilge??
    Did you follow the same angle of the hull or did you flatten this are out.
    The directions in my Dominator said to find a suitablt fat spot and marrk and cut and then use the four corner screws to adjust for angle as necessary.
    My hull is angled all the way to the transom.
    Should I follow the same angle??
    I was thinking to cut back to the stringers on both sides cut a piece of plywood to fit the hole and screw it to the stringers but the angle thing has me baffled.
    After I filled the hole with the plywood then do I start to apply the glass and resin to the hull?
    Any better info would be helpfull thanks

  4. #4
    First, I am not a pro with glass, so consult with a professional because messing this up could wind up being disastrous.
    It makes sense to follow the shape of the hull. You dont just want to patch the hole though. You want to overlap the existing material so you can build some strength into the job. When people have cracks in their hull, it is recommended that the crack be ground down, and as wide as you can surrounding the perimeter of the crack up to X inches(ask a pro for the value of X). I would do this on both the top and bottom of the hull so what you end up with is a repair that is tied into the rest of the hull.
    Luckily, I doubt the dimensions will be all that different between the current and future holes, so most of your repair will get cut out-Meaning that as long as you block out the repair and maintain the existing shape of the hull you should be well on your way to a solid install. Not sure I would use plywood. You need a way to break the wood away from the glass when you are done...just laying some strips of glass across the gap and allowing them to dry would work just as well...
    Like I said, talk to a pro, even if you have to pay for their advice(or maybe even consider paying them to do it.) You will want to make sure you use quality materials and not the crap you get at home depot. Just as important is the technique used, and making sure you eliminate any air bubbles in the glass-you need the right tools to do this. If you are in so cal I can recommend a few places I have dealt with.
    As far as installing, you want the shoe of the intake to be about even with the keel. This can vary on different boats so ask around. Do you have an adjustable shoe or is it as cast?(this is the area at the rear of the intake that scoops water into the intake(not the loader) If you are performance minded at all you may want to consider having the intake machined for a shoe/rideplate now while it is out. Also, I would study the way the hull transitions to the front of the pump. What does this look like? Hopefully with the V hull the entry is somewhat spoon shaped. Take lots of pics if you can before disassembly so you know how it used to look. If the boat handles fine now duplicating the look shouldn't change the function. If you plan to go fast then you will want to research in more detail what the entry should look like. Study this relationship before doing any work. This subject has been discussed before, hopefully you can find it on the forums...

  5. #5
    I did my set back, I have several good pics just need to get them over here.
    PS. Special thanks to MPD for the idea...I also fully fabricated my custom (curved) Transom Plate. Even with my hand hole only 3/4 outside of the transom, it allows the hand hole clean out lid to be removed easly.

  6. #6
    Do you remember what steps you did to fill in the hole in the hole in the bilge??
    Yep I do, what (I) did was, the section of Hull I removed (cut out) from the back of the boat I cleaned and used it in front of the pump area.
    There's more to it than that...but it's 2 AM here (right coast) and I'm toast.
    I'll try and post several pics tomorrow.

  7. #7
    A few pics of what I used and how I filled the hole infront of the now moved back Intake. Below shows a 1/4" aluminum plate thats bolted to the front of the Intake flange and will (bridge) over the hole in the gets bolted to the hull also has epoxy around it.
    This is the piece of Hull I cut-out from the rear of the Intake. I fully cleaned/grinded it of Gel Coat and it will be used as a (filler) under the boat along with epoxy. No need to use all epoxy!
    Here the Intake is set/bolted in the Hull with Epoxy. All measurements and adjustments were taken prior to the final set in.
    Here I'm testing/sizing the (filler piece)...I will fully coat it with epoxy, stick it in position and then fill the rest of the area with more epoxy and then fully contour the underside of the Hull so it looked factory.
    My efforts resulted in a perfect job!
    Top view of the intake just set in with epoxy, also shows the aluminum (bridge) plate doing it's job. The plate also gets through bolted.
    Note. ALL measurements for setting the Intake location MUST be taken from the underside of the Hull!
    Note. Epoxy used was Sea Going (HD) ...GREAT STUFF!

  8. #8
    Thanks for the pics Hammer. I need one showing how much to hack off the back.

  9. #9
    did you move your motor back--- or did you use a longer drive line ??
    do you have pictures of before and after( with motor installed )??
    havent seen too many set back pumps--

  10. #10
    i've got a bunch of pics so if you guys don't want to see them tell me i'll pull them down.
    I did mine also like hammerdown. I actually got the idea for the transom adapter from him.
    I had my intake machined for max setback which gets you i think 3/4" more setback without cutting another 3/4" of glass.
    here is is with the hole cut. I used my intake as a guide and I cut far enough back that the intake(after being machined) would set agianst the transom.
    a pic of the intake set.
    the intake is done. YOu can see the alumn filler like hammer down. the front of the filler bolts through the hull where the stock intake bolts were the filler then goes under the intake and bolts to it
    I used the cut out section plus epoxy to fill and shape the bottom and this is what it looked like after blueprinting
    here you can see how far the pump sticks out but the handhole is still 1/4 covered by the transom
    and a really bad picture of the 3 pieace transom adapter. I think it looks slightly differen't then hammerdown's but it's the same style.

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