How much shoe should be added??

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

I am running a 2* backcut shoe on my 18ft kachina v bottom. I am ready to start shimming and was curious to know how much you guys are adding at one time. How do you know when you have added too much?? you can feel the shoe grab upon deacceleration. It doesnt stuff the nose so that isnt a problem.

[flat broke]

It depends on your setup, how loose it is right now, and how it currently shuts down. Do you have your biting edge even with the keel line or up in the intake a little? I assume the boat is running relatively fast now, so you'll want to take your time and sneak up on the setup rather than dropping the shoe a whole bunch and having it behave really nasty on shutdown. If you want to take it real slow, make a 1/16" shim, and 2 1/8" shims. Then you can go to the lake and test anywhere from 1/16 to 5/16 in 1/16 increments. If you find you need more than that, then make a 1/4 shim which combined with your previously made shims should be good for further combinations.
I'd also run a passenger and a intake pressure gauge so you can quantify changes with some sort of data. Sometimes having that extra bit of info can help if you start to notice other issues but can't draw a correlation to anything.
Hope that helps, now get some pics of her up here.
Chris

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Hey chris, how have you been sucka Thanks for the intake, it came out very nice!!! The only issue that I had is that the ride plate doesnt line up with the cradle holes oh and one bolt leaks. So I bought a piece of 1/4x8x18 flatbar T6 aluminum. I just havent installed it yet, I will cut it tomorrow in a mill. I had to get her wet and it was nice. I noticed that the boat rides very dry with minimal trim. It was hard to tell how she rode because the water was very choppy. I have a whole bunch of shims to play with.A friend of mine told me to add very small amounts of shim as well. Tom papp told me to set my plate at around 3-4 degrees up from the shoe.
SHould I get the shoe level before I put my angle finder on it. Then put the plate at 3 degrees? THe only reason I ask is because the shoe is 2* backcut.
I will post pics this week when the wiring is 100% done. I had to rig it to get her out. Thanks for the info and parts chris. That is what makes ***boat what it is aside from some of the drama:yuk:

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

my bad, I forgot to answer the q's....
The bitting edge of the shoe is .125(1/8th) above the keel. As far as shutdown goes, you can feel it grab but it isnt violent at all. I actuall like it because it slows the boat down alot faster. The other thing is that you can actuall feel the ass end od the boat lift from the backcut shoe when your on it

[flat broke]

If you can already feel it dig in when you slow down, shim it in small increments as you stated. You don't want a surprise, and since it's a lake/river boat, you should bias your setup a little more on the safe side than full tilt haul ass. Test the boat in the water you usually run in. No sense setting it up for super smooth conditions if you normally run in light chop. If you do, that shoe might grab more than you bargained for when you shut her down.
As far as the shoe being level etc. The center portion is 2*. The outer portion should be parallel with your intake which means if your intake is level, the shoe is level except the fact that it is back cut at 2*. Good to hear it lifts well for you, and that everything is working out well.
Just take the setup slow and maybe compare notes with Squirtcha as I believe your hulls are similar. Each boat is different, but sometimes there are enough similarities to get you off in the right direction without having to do a lot of trial and error.
Chris