Reply With Quotehere you go... should make the boat easier to insure also...
I am switching out the Bassets for the log exhaust until my son is older.... to much of a pain and burn hazard for now... what is the proper way to route the water lines to the exhaust.... thanks in advance... Jeff
here you go... should make the boat easier to insure also...
Perfect, thanks.... exactly what I was looking for.....
i had mine this way and it was over heating on the hose, switched it to the block first and then to the logs. but now i noticed that i get pressure in the hoses from the block to the exhaust but not the others could there be a blockage in the log?
sorry to steal post. the boat is new to me and sat for 8 years so maybe clogged logs just noticed 2nd trip out and logs are hot, burnt a exhaust hose already thats what lead to me fiding the presure. any hints on cleaning the internal ports out.
if you wanted to take them off and bang on them.... I have had a lot of calcium like stuff come out of mine since I have been beating on them to get the risers to seperate from the manifold.... still no luck, I have basically used a small hacksaw to cut into the gasket and still can not get them free....
Ive always been told if you have the option of preheating the water a bit by running thru the logs first thats the way to do it.
I also want to point out that I bought a boat once that had an unecesasary amount of hose on it because the hoses went all the way to the front of the logs then from the back of the logs to the front of the motor. You can tidy up the layout and make it cleaner by entering the logs at the rear and out at the front. Youd assume this was obvious but ive seen it done the opposite way a few times now on other boats. Sounds to me like you have a different issue.
Cheers
lbz and screemy may have calcium, magnesium, iron, or other water borne deposits.. I don't know how common this is on boats but I make my living on the minerals in other water cooled applications.
"CLR" or other commercially available scale removers or radiator cleaners recirculated without the engine running will dissolve and remove the deposits and restore proper heat transfer. Stay away from coil cleaner or hydroflouric acid... HF does nothing to deposits and eats flesh to the bone.
I would try running the boat on the trailer in the water with the block drains removed and with drains installed and thermostat removed. You may get a bunch of stuff out and problem solved. If that doesn't solve your cooling flow problem attempt chemical cleaning without the engine running.
This can be accomplished with a small electric pump and a 15 or 30 gallon drum. Pump suction in tank and return fluid to tank. Get a pH measuring kit, either litmus paper or a color comparitor, measure and record the pH in 5 minute intervals. If you have water borne deposits the pH will start low and increase to neutral indicating you've done some cleaning. Also, you'll see gunk and goo in your tank. Repeat until the pH stays where it starts. You've done the maximum cleaning at that point.
Then you'll need to neutralize the system with some kind of alkaline material. If you've cleaned/flushed a radiator this is the same process and the same chemicals can be used just more of them.
These deposits can be formed by running the motor without adequate cooling water (on trailer) or not draining the system after removal from the water.
If it happens once in 20 years not really a big deal.
Hope this helps... also, I'm interested in how you get the logs off the heads. Apparently there is some anode/cathode action that prevents easy seperation.
Hope this helps.
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