Reply With QuoteKind of looks like a spider huh? Pay no attention to the silicone job. One of those in the boat behind the motor plate barely reach deals.
[img]http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/504/211Spider.jpg[/img]
Before looking at the pics. I have run it for about 2 seasons. First season with watered down oil. Fixed the block pressure the second year. Never any metal in the filter. Ran wide open several passes each week during the season. Compression is good. Minor pitting in the cyls from alcohol. Has only been out 1 time last year since valve job and new springs and roller lifters.
Turned it over and took a random sample of the #1 main bearing and #4 rod bearing. just looked at the ones easy to get to. I expected to see bad bearings because of the water.
Bearings are good. Strange shadows in the pics. Sludge in the bottom of the pan from water - alcohol and whatever else.
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Clean the pan and put it back in?
Keep looking until I find an reason to tear it down?
Rebuild it anyway? Rebuild will be 5k with new crank - rods - pistons - and shaft rockers.
What Would You Do?
[img]http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/504/211Main_Bearing.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/504/211Rod_Bearing.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/504/211Sludge.jpg[/img]
[ May 21, 2003, 06:08 PM: Message edited by: Infomaniac ]
Kind of looks like a spider huh? Pay no attention to the silicone job. One of those in the boat behind the motor plate barely reach deals.
[img]http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/504/211Spider.jpg[/img]
By the looks of the bearings. I would clean the pan and run it. Although with the money made on that whipple motor you built its totally up to you.
I had water problems for the past two years in my blown Biesemeyer. This year, due to a couple of changes, I expect those problems to go away. I have added a bypass valve to the engine and intercooler and installed both a Tee valve and a shut off to the Tee valve. Fiat sold me a tall deck block and gave me some good advice about engine building. I have followed them to a T and will fire it up the day after tomorrow. It was much simpler slamming a stocker together. Too much knowledge has made the pitfalls deeper. Regarding the water------I had water in the engine, to some degree for two years and the bearings were perfect. The engine ran 6500 to 7200 regularly, for medium length runs, 9200 max. This is my personal belief about water and condensation in the oil. Water is bad, glycol is way worse, watery oil lubricates better than glycol in a severe duty engine. Diesel engines that run 24/7 will not tolerate more than 100 ppm for a month without showing pitting in the bearings, and starting a rapid road to failure. This translates to an average of 6,500 to 7,000 hours of running per month. Most v drives or jets do not see that type of usage. If I was not upgrading my engine, I would have left it alone.
i would pack it up and ship it over to my place as a gift. and i'll let you know how she runs.
i will e-mail you my adress. hey info tell ya what i'll even pay for shipping.
thanx
eric
P.S. if you have any questions please call (818) 402-3004
Info, you didn't say what the cylinders leaked at but if the leakdown is within your specs. then why don't you just freshen up the long block and run it this year?
Hey Info, check your PM's...
Put some bearings in it, and run it. Just keep an idea on the oil pressure.
Brian
Yes there is hidden meaning to everything.
I am in sort of denial posting this. I was expecting to see bad bearings - buy a callies crank - oliver rods 11:1 pistons and a T&D shaft rocker system to upgrade everything. Also add several hundred HP.
Since everything seems to be OK , I guess I was looking for a reason to go ahead and go for it.
Thanks GoFastRacer.
You are quite welcome!..
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