460BBF Crankshaft

[Snorider]

What brand / type crank would anyone recommend for the following motor: (to keep it together for at least 2 summers)
700+hp @ 6,000-6,500rpm, with a 4.3-4.5" stroke.
During normal operation i would probably be running 4500-5500rpm, and at WOT about 6200rpm. I know i am gonna need a huge oil pan to keep it well oiled for long WOT runs - probably 10qts+.
I was looking at the scat 9000 crank's... are they strong enough to handle the rpm's and hp?
If not, what other ones would work? I was told i need a billet steel crank that would cost about 2000... that sounded extremely steep to me...
[ June 12, 2003, 08:10 PM: Message edited by: Snorider ]

[LakesOnly]

Eagle and Scat both make stroker cranks, and both are decent these days according to two different engine builders I have listened to. And others claim to have had their Scat and Eagle shortblocks running for seasons on end. I was steered away from the Hawks racing cranks...
However, Eagle makes only the 4.15" stroke; you have to go to Scat to get the 4.30" or 4.50" stroke and then use the Eagle rods. In a 4.30" 533 stroker, you use the same piston as the 4.500 stroke engine, just the rod is .100 longer, 4.300/6.800 vs. 4.500/6.700. About the largest difference (expense-wise) between the 557 (4.50") and a 514 (4.15") would be the balancing; a 557 will cost more to balance because it will require heavy metal with a steel rod engine. This may not be the case with the 533.
I don't think you need a $2000 crankshaft; in fact, I'll bet you can find the whole rotating assembly for that price. Properly prepared, a shortblock with these components can handle 700 HP and 6500 r.p.m. as you're requiring. It really is not necessary to spin these motors any higher than that anyway; any power increase is marginal at best.
Incidentally, if you are planning on using a two-bolt block, you will need to do some significant strengthening of the bottom end, like studs, doweling, girdle, etc. Dyno testing by a marine guy on the east coast has repeatedly shown cap walking on factory 460 2-bolt bottom ends over 550 HP.
Further, if you are building a 533 or 557 with factory cast iron heads, you may want to consider some D3VE heads (93cc) over the D0VE heads (76cc) for compression reasons. The D3's would have to be ported correctly to get the most power out of them. Ported correctly, they provide sufficient flow to 6500 r.p.m and about 10.5:1 with flat-top pistons in the stroker. The IDEAL head for these motors is the D2OE Police Interceptor head (88cc) due to their combustion chamber size and exhaust ports that rival that of the Cobra Jet heads.
As far as oil pans go, my only experience with Ford big blocks is the Milodon Marine Jet Pan, part # 31365. It holds 10 quarts, and with my dual remote filters and line, my motor accomodates 13 quarts of oil. All the parts (pump, pick-up, windage tray, etc.) make this pan pricey, but it's a nice pan. Go to: http://www.milodon.com/oilpans/pg28.htm SCROLL DOWN.
LO
[ June 12, 2003, 09:48 PM: Message edited by: LakesOnly ]

[GofastRacer]

Just some information here, unless they have changed, Eagle and Scat are Taiwan shit!, something to think about!..

[LakesOnly]

GofastRacer:
Just some information here, unless they have changed, Eagle and Scat are Taiwan shit!, Neither Eagle nor Scat are made in Taiwan. They both have foundries in China, as does C.A.T. and other high performance parts manufacturers.
But both Eagle and Scat put the finishing touches (including QC) over here in the U.S. This is probably because quality control proved poor with many chinese goods in the past, including engine components. It may be that Eagle once had a suspect reputaion in the distant past, but this is no longer the case today. Additionally, as with ANY new part, your machine shop should be measuring everything--including all brand new components.
LO
[ June 12, 2003, 09:59 PM: Message edited by: LakesOnly ]

[Froggystyle]

Look at ford motorsport, I think they have a pretty good crank.

[LakesOnly]

Froggystyle:
Look at ford motorsport, I think they have a pretty good crank. This is also a good crankshaft, although as I recall, Ford's stroker crank has the 2.50" rod journals, unlike the others that utilize a 2.20" Chevy journal--thereby opening up a whole bunch of alternatives in rod selection and sizes. (Double-check this for this may no longer be the case...)
LO

[Blown 472]

ENGINE SYSTEMS, INC.
2256 4th St.
Tucker, GA 30084…… (770) 491-0583
Ford engine builder specializing in big cu. in. 460 for
the truck, tractor, drag race etc. market.
In house head porting and dyno service.
You could give them a call.

[TX19]

I am running the Ford Motorsport 514 cubic inch short block (which has a cast iron crank made in China)with about what you are requiring. I made 714 hp @ 6,000 rpm on the dyno with my combination. I did enternally balance the rotating assembley and have made a few oiling modifications - sleeved the lifter bores and installed roller cam bearings - and run a Dooley 10 quart pan. These oiling modifications and the balancing have worked well for me, but I know many who run the cast iron stroker cranks with a stock block oiling system with a big pan and externally blanced crankshaft and do well with that.
I would also recommend Engine Systems in Tucker, Georgia. They prepared (ported and flowed) my Blue Thunder heads / Victor Jr. intake. I am well pleased with their work. Jimmy Fischer is the guru there that I dealt with.
We ran 75 gallons of gas through my engine on the dyno while "smoke testing" the new combination. On the last day of testing at the dyno shop we locked it down at 6000 rpm and ran 10 gallons of gas through it. I am now on the third season on this same engine with no bottom end problems at all. Sustained 6,000 rpm blasts for 5 minutes are common practice - as well as idling at 800 rpm around the marinas.
Just my $.02 worth on what works for me!
Good luck in your endeavors!

[GofastRacer]

LakesOnly:
GofastRacer:
Just some information here, unless they have changed, Eagle and Scat are Taiwan shit!, Neither Eagle nor Scat are made in Taiwan. They both have foundries in China, as does C.A.T. and other high performance parts manufacturers.
But both Eagle and Scat put the finishing touches (including QC) over here in the U.S. This is probably because quality control proved poor with many chinese goods in the past, including engine components. It may be that Eagle once had a suspect reputaion in the distant past, but this is no longer the case today. Additionally, as with ANY new part, your machine shop should be measuring everything--including all brand new components.
LO OK, my bad, I was told they were Taiwan made and you may be right about the past, I know several people that used Eagle and Scat in the past and the cranks just broke in half and destroyed their motors. As far as QC goes, it starts at the foundry not here. Back in the late 60's I was a hammerman in a foundry making cranks and rods for Chrysler and Ford and let me tell ya, the heat in that hunk of steel had to be just right and the timing had to be right on because the second it comes out of the oven, it starts to cool down and you have just so long to go through the process otherwise it's junk.
As far as machine shops go, 90% is production shit and they do just what you tell them to do period, they don't check shit, and half the time the machines are all out of adjustment and the operators don't give a shit. That is one area that "what you get is what you pay for" is 110% fact!, been down that road before!. I measure all my stuff up myself and then PAY a good shop to do it right!. Wish I could afford the machines, that way I know it would be done right!

[Badboat1]

I'am a Scat dealer and they are done in china.I can give you a good deal on them also.Call or email me and will hook you up
BB1