initial timing locked out

[Schiada76]

When you're setting your initial timing ( before firing and putting a light on it) with a locked out dist. where do you set it? Straight up or do you set it with 10 degrees or so advance ? Will an MSD retard be needed for easy starting?
Also what would be the recommended timing with a Mark IV, 500CI, BBC, 871 at 12#'s + or -, full roller, .650 range cam, intercooled with a Bird on 100 octane?

[Marty Gras]

I never lock them out, not even drag boats. It must crank at the holding rope and 32 degrees is too much. With a mag I use a buzz box, with a dist. I use a piece of foil/brass tubing on the cap post. (#1) If you are really "locked out" turn the crank to your setting (32/30/28) and have a piece of foil/brass tubing on the cap post. Put a temporary power source to the coil post and turn the dist. until you get your "test light" to come on. This will set you within 6 degrees of your desired setting. Once the motor is running, you can make the correct setting. DON'T EVER HAVE THE THROTTLE PLATES OPEN WHEN STARTING A BLOWN MOTOR!!! Put fuel in the intake and crank the motor, throttles closed. It will run even with the timing off by 15 degrees, just not too well. I feel "locked timing" is NOT the answer for blown motors, it's just an excuse for not knowing what's going on.

[Warp Factor]

When you're setting your initial timing ( before firing and putting a light on it) with a locked out dist. where do you set it? Straight up or do you set it with 10 degrees or so advance ? Will an MSD retard be needed for easy starting?
It's easy. Pull all the plug wires and hook up a jumper to ground #1. Hook up a timing light to #1, and crank the engine with the ignition on. The timing you see when cranking will be fairly close to the timing when running on a locked distributor. Be sure to re-check with the engine running, all the way through the rpm band. Some "locked" distributors can let timing move a bit.
Starting shouldn't be a problem with up to 36 degrees if compression isn't over 8.5 or so.
Also what would be the recommended timing with a Mark IV, 500CI, BBC, 871 at 12#'s + or -, full roller, .650 range cam, intercooled with a Bird on 100 octane?
Who knows? Every engine is different, and a lot depends on how well it is cooled. On 100 octane with a chiller and a rich enough mixture, you might be able to run as much as 36 or 38. The best way to determine this is to experiment on a dyno and see where it makes best power without detonating.
Barring this, if you have enough premium parts in your motor, you could start with something safe like 25 degrees, and gradually move it up, checking the plugs frequently for signs of heating or detonation.
If pistons, ring end gap etc. aren't correctly set up for boost though, your motor might not survive any detonation.
Another way of doing it is to install an MSD detonation sensor. Run it with reduced timing at various rpms including wide open throttle, and record how many LEDs are lit at 500 rpm increments. Advance the timing, and see if the LEDs stay the same. When more LEDs come on, you've probably gone too far.
You probably won't have any increase in power beyond 38 though, even if it's not detonating yet.

[Jim W]

It's easy. Pull all the plug wires and hook up a jumper to ground #1. Hook up a timing light to #1, and crank the engine with the ignition on. The timing you see when cranking will be fairly close to the timing when running on a locked distributor. Be sure to re-check with the engine running, all the way through the rpm band. Some "locked" distributors can let timing move a bit.
I found out that if you put your timing light pick-up on the coil wire, you get 4 flashes on the timing mark. Not just the 1....per 2 revaloutions (sp?) The other "false" flashes shine on the balancer where there are no marks. All you will really see are the flashes that are on the timing marks. Try it.
Works great when cranking or trying to time an engine in bright sunlight.
Be good, Jim

[Fiat48]

I turn the motor over by hand to 34 btdc.
I drop the mag in pointing at #1 plug wire on the cap. If the oil pump drive does not align so the mag will drop in then I turn the oil pump drive with a long screwdriver to where it will.
I push back on the rotor (opposite of turning direction) and rotate the mag base slowly until I see the points just start to break open.
I tighten the mag right there. Double check.
Usually I hit it dead on or within 2 degrees when checked with a timing light.

[Schiada76]

Thanks for the replys.
Fiats, as usual sounds nice and simple.
In fact that's one of those "damn I should have been able to think of that" moments.