Reply With QuoteSD,
Since you are doing all the other glass work anyway, I would fill 'em in and start from scratch... That way you're not trying to match up existing holes with your new log. Just out of curiosity, why do you have to move the v-drive?
S&S
Ok, the boat is getting more glass work done to it. I have to remove a bulkhead because of the new v drive location. Also the bottom of the boat is a total mess. It had a bolt on fin, strut, and whip strut. Now everything is going to be drop through so a bunch of holes are left.
Tomorrow it's getting rolled over and fixed.
Here's the deal. I'm gonna have to move the shaft log forward or make a new one that has a longer bottom flange. I'll tell ya right now I'm making a new pimpdaddy one. I'm leaning towards keeping the old mounting holes in the boat and only drilling a few extras due to the new length.
Would you do that or just fill all of them in and start from scratch?
SD,
Since you are doing all the other glass work anyway, I would fill 'em in and start from scratch... That way you're not trying to match up existing holes with your new log. Just out of curiosity, why do you have to move the v-drive?
S&S
Stab-n-Steer:
SD,
Since you are doing all the other glass work anyway, I would fill 'em in and start from scratch... That way you're not trying to match up existing holes with your new log. Just out of curiosity, why do you have to move the v-drive?
S&S Changing from a 9 degree strut to a 7.25 deal.
I hear ya about starting from scratch but you know I'll end up drilling them right on the edge of the old ones.
Dave ... just curious, will you be moving the strut location and if so which way and how far???
LeE ss13:
Dave ... just curious, will you be moving the strut location and if so which way and how far??? It's going to be in just about the same spot.
Let's just say that the gang at Schiada would not give me any help with set up info. They don't even make a 20' v bottoms any more but for some reason it's some top secret info that they can't give out.
But I just happen to know a guy that used to rig them and he hooked me up with all his old data.
And I checked some other boats and his # were right on like always.
Reason I asked was because once I changed from a 9 degree to a 7.5 on a 18ft flatbottom once and I moved the strut back about an inch. Someone had given me the numbers and it worked very well. I wanted to know if the same math worked on a v-bottom cruiser. On a flat, flattening out the angle tends to lift the nose causing the boat to porpoise. Moving it back drops it back down.
LeE ss13:
Reason I asked was because once I changed from a 9 degree to a 7.5 on a 18ft flatbottom once and I moved the strut back about an inch. Someone had given me the numbers and it worked very well. I wanted to know if the same math worked on a v-bottom cruiser. On a flat, flattening out the angle tends to lift the nose causing the boat to porpoise. Moving it back drops it back down. """On a flat, flattening out the angle tends to lift the nose causing the boat to porpoise."""
Really...now I'm confussed, Hummm???
I'm not seein that???
Superdave,
Here is something I use for wooden boats, but would be applicable for fiberglass as its epoxy base. Try one part silica to one part microspheres, mix thoroughly. Add this to one part catalyzed epoxy (pre mixed with hardener) at a rate ranging from 2 parts filler to one part epoxy on up. The filler ratio can be upped anywhere from 2-3 parts filler to one part epoxy depending on how thick you want it. To fill long screw holes I use a large syringe with the tip enlarged and force it into the holes. The filled tube can be heated somewhat to ease the flow. Note at the thicker consistancys this trick won't work. A 60cc syringe can be had from a local vet supply house. Cut off the tip and enlarge the opening with an appropriate drill bit. This mix should be compatible with all paints, gel coats etc. As for the shaft hole I'd get a hardwood dowel with a smaller ID than the hole. use acetone to clean all surfaces to be epoxied. Trowel in the mix to coat the walls, and butter the dowel plug, then force it in. When cured you can partially drill through it to locate the new shaft hole instead of elongating the old one. Sorry for the logwindedness.
Hope this helps,
John H.
superdave013:
Ok, the boat is getting more glass work done to it. I have to remove a bulkhead because of the new v drive location. Also the bottom of the boat is a total mess. It had a bolt on fin, strut, and whip strut. Now everything is going to be drop through so a bunch of holes are left.
Tomorrow it's getting rolled over and fixed.
Here's the deal. I'm gonna have to move the shaft log forward or make a new one that has a longer bottom flange. I'll tell ya right now I'm making a new pimpdaddy one. I'm leaning towards keeping the old mounting holes in the boat and only drilling a few extras due to the new length.
Would you do that or just fill all of them in and start from scratch? I got to agree with S & S, it is a lot easier to plug em up and start over. When I built my Daytona, I used just about every hole that was there and I'll tell ya, I won't do it again, it's a real pain in the ass!, I had less trouble building my new one!.. I'm getting ready to start on an old Sanger flat for a friend (if I ever get the f****n thing back from the glass shop) and every hole in the boat is being plugged except for the strut, fins and log, only cause they are going back in the same place!. With all the holes plugged, it's like a new boat, just drill new holes to suit!!....Just my experience!!...
[ January 20, 2003, 09:16 AM: Message edited by: GofastRacer ]
dave what are you doing with your old strut i'm redoing my 21 rayson and i have a 12 degree in it now and want to go with a 9 degree.
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