Yeah...well...I see how you did that.
It's a good thing I have 2 monitors so I can read your post and reply at the same time. LOL.
Generally I install the rods and pistons and then the cam goes in for degree with cylinder heads not on. No oil pump or windage tray or anything in the way. Then I rotate the engine by holes in the crankshaft or by a couple bolts in the crank flange at the rear.
It can be done (and have done so) with the head on. You already see how difficult it is to have everything straight.
I am going to suggest that you remove the cylinder head and degree the cam at the lifter which will solve a couple problems.
Or you can leave the head on for now and refer to your other thread where Steelcomp will show you how to do the rocker geometry since you have the head already on there.
if i recall correctly Gofastracer, Fiat, and a few others recommended i go with a non-bypass and to use a good filter, i beleive WIX filter is what was recommended.
That's right Shaun, WIX is a good filter but you might also look into a System1 or a Trufilter, a little pricey but you won't have to buy another filter and you'll never have to worry about enough flow!.. BTW, you're doing a great job!..
Yeah...well...I see how you did that.
It's a good thing I have 2 monitors so I can read your post and reply at the same time. LOL.
Generally I install the rods and pistons and then the cam goes in for degree with cylinder heads not on. No oil pump or windage tray or anything in the way. Then I rotate the engine by holes in the crankshaft or by a couple bolts in the crank flange at the rear.
It can be done (and have done so) with the head on. You already see how difficult it is to have everything straight.
I am going to suggest that you remove the cylinder head and degree the cam at the lifter which will solve a couple problems.
Or you can leave the head on for now and refer to your other thread where Steelcomp will show you how to do the rocker geometry since you have the head already on there.
Thats just how the crane cam degree instructions told me how to do it so thats what i did. Other than the intake being off a degree everything else came out to match up with the card. Do i really need to pull the head and do this again?
That's right Shaun, WIX is a good filter but you might also look into a System1 or a Trufilter, a little pricey but you won't have to buy another filter and you'll never have to worry about enough flow!.. BTW, you're doing a great job!..
Thanks! I'll look into them, actually just found a place the other day by my house that sold Wix filters.. (kragen/pepboys/napa down here dont) and now you got me looking at somthign else
Then you are o.k.
Shaun, you are doing a great job for your first build. I don't even want to mention all the little details I did not check the first few times I put engines together.With help from my dad and other experts like we have on this board I have changed my ways.
Paul
I don't do stuff like that because it would take money away from my boat and car projects. Unfortunately I probably won't have my projects done until I am in my thirties.
Paul
Ha! That is the problem. This is such an expensive hobby that it's sort of not possible to do until you are in your late 20s, early 30s making a little more money.
Yeah - I degree with the heads off too, use a deck mounted piston stop or dial indicator to find TDC, then measure off the lifter.
Looks like you are doing a great job, just take your time and double check everything.
Thanks! I'll look into them, actually just found a place the other day by my house that sold Wix filters.. (kragen/pepboys/napa down here dont) and now you got me looking at somthign else
The Napa filter is a Wix
The Napa filter is a Wix
I was looking at system1, they have a million diffrent setups it looks like. Which one do you recommend for a build like mine? Where can i get one for a good price? Look at all the diffrent ones on this page! http://www.system1filters.com/oil_filters.htm lol
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