Reply With Quotethanks Rio Dog for the response. i thought i rememebered the stud girdles changing the lash some. i understand a slow process.
one other question _ are there torque specs on the stud girdles,seems i remember torquing them,but not sure !
need some advice.
haven't owned a roller motor with stud girdles in years and plannned on releiving the spring pressures during the off months. how many of you actually do this !
can someone give me the order (steps) need to do this job and also when resetting the valves next spring.
i just pull all the plugs and hand roll the motor and do each cyl one at a time,but if i remember right when tightening the stud girdles it changed the valve lash ???
so need a refresher course.
thanks !
thanks Rio Dog for the response. i thought i rememebered the stud girdles changing the lash some. i understand a slow process.
one other question _ are there torque specs on the stud girdles,seems i remember torquing them,but not sure !
i thought i rememebered the stud girdles changing the lash some. i understand a slow process.
one other question _ are there torque specs on the stud girdles,seems i remember torquing them,but not sure !
It depends on what girdles you have, I've used some that throw the lash off big time and some that don't. I use Websters now and they never change the lash when tightened. Also this last week I ran the valves on a friends motor at the river and he has Dart's which are just about identical to the Websters and the lash never changed one bit. I would say that the main thing is to take your time and make sure that they are seated properly before you tighten them. As far as torque, I start in the center and work my way outward several times until tight, with an allen wrench you will feel when they are tight!.
Just a comment about WD40...
WD40 is a solvent. It breaks down and removes petroleum based yuck that has dried out, become dirtbound or whatever. It also leaves behind a waxy, slippery residue that repels water and tends to lubricate things, often times by removing the built-up crud that was binding up the works. WD works especially well on a lot of plastic stuff.
But it's a SOLVENT FOR PETROLEUM PRODUCTS. Nowhere on the can does it state that it's a corrosion preventative product. Ever notice how your gallon can is rusted on top? That's becasue it removes all protective oils, etc.
WD is a great product, but I'd be real careful about using it to store engines. ALWAYS use fogging oil.
these are crane gold series. i'll take it slow and easy. may practice a couple times over the winter to have it down for spring.
what is a fogger oil. i use to squirt marvel mystery oil in mine before set up.
If tightening your stud girdle changes the valve lash it is because the girdle is not machined perfectly, or is not positioned correctly and is pulling the studs which will increase or decrease the lash. The stud girdle should never change the lash!
to insure the stud girdles are level and consistent height should i put a straight edge or level on them to check for said?
pretty sure the stud girdles were good,probably operator error.
No, just slip them on and jently pull up on them until they seat and there's no movement, when you can't move them around they will be seated. One check you might do before you put them on, is to put a straight edge on the sides of the poly locks, they should all touch!..
After burning myself on my OT headers multiple times while adjusting valve lash (I have a stud girdle also), I made the decision to let a top-notch mechanic do it for me for $100. Makes my arms and sanity much happier!
Got to love them headers!..
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