Reply With QuoteP.S. I didnt change the engine for the starter problem !!!
My starter has had a dragging problem ever since I have owned this boat. In the morning first crank no problem. But, when warm it drags bad. Ive replaced the starter, Installed dual batteries, new cables, made sure that the shimming was correct.
It is the stock Chevy configuration with the solinoid on the starter ( not ford type) The engine is a 355 with about 9.5 to 1. I have even changed engines and still had the same problem.
Any help ?????
P.S. I didnt change the engine for the starter problem !!!
How much initial timing are you running? Have you tried a different timing light or running less timing?
I have seen new/reman starters that were bad. Also check the battery switch.
What exhaust system are you running? Water could be getting back into the engine causing hydro lock.
How much initial timing are you running? Have you tried a different timing light or running less timing?
I have seen new/reman starters that were bad. Also check the battery switch.
What exhaust system are you running? Water could be getting back into the engine causing hydro lock.
Im running a total advance of 30 degrees at 3000 rpm.
The battery switch is brand new and has the same problem with either battery and before a put a switch in it had the problems.
I have thru the transom straight pipes with flapppers and the starter will drag on a calm day on the lake or in the drive way with the hose going to it.
Could I have more compression than I think? I have flat tops and not a lot of deck height with small cambers on the heads. But my old engine had flat tops and the old "light castings " for heads and I still had the same problem .
any ideas ?
This is probably way out in left field but is your pump really tight. Have you unhooked it to see if its easy to turn with your hand. Maybe you just had it rebuilt and its a little too much for the starter. Maybe there's always been half a ski rope stuck in there :boxed: . Probably not, as your first crank would be difficult too. I'd look at your cables and connections if I were you. I know you said you already looked at them, but maybe step up in size on your battery cables (no such thing as too big) and make sure all of your connections are tight and free of any corrosion. Maybe your boat is wired weird and you aren't getting enough juice there when the motor is hot. Remember when the motor is hot, everything else is hot too, degrading the performance of your wires, batteries, switches etc, especially if you are running a closed engine compartment. There's no way you should have a hard time turning that thing over if there are guys running 1000 HP blown big blocks and starting them with no drama, something has to be out of whack, you just have to track it down-Aluminum Squirt
So your total is 30 degrees, what is your BASE TIMING? Your 30 degrees is very mild for MOST applications, why so little? Most normal starters will drag if the motor has compression (not worn out) at 350 RPMs durring cranking with more than 12 degrees (at running temps)! I have built blown alcohol motors that had 10.5 static compression, along with 52lbs of boost. They never had CRANKING problems because we used very low BASE TIMING while cranking. If your starter is in good working condition, you need to look at your BASE TIMING! Don't blame the starter for your problems! LOOK AT YOUR SPECS!
So your total is 30 degrees, what is your BASE TIMING? Your 30 degrees is very mild for MOST applications, why so little? Most normal starters will drag if the motor has compression (not worn out) at 350 RPMs durring cranking with more than 12 degrees (at running temps)! I have built blown alcohol motors that had 10.5 static compression, along with 52lbs of boost. They never had CRANKING problems because we used very low BASE TIMING while cranking. If your starter is in good working condition, you need to look at your BASE TIMING! Don't blame the starter for your problems! LOOK AT YOUR SPECS!
Ive tried 2 degrees to 8 degrees to 0 degrees and all the same result. and I know 30 degrees is pretty tame but I burnt a piston on my last engine because of too much timing and Im still a little gun shy.
This is probably way out in left field but is your pump really tight. Have you unhooked it to see if its easy to turn with your hand. Maybe you just had it rebuilt and its a little too much for the starter. Maybe there's always been half a ski rope stuck in there :boxed: . Probably not, as your first crank would be difficult too. I'd look at your cables and connections if I were you. I know you said you already looked at them, but maybe step up in size on your battery cables (no such thing as too big) and make sure all of your connections are tight and free of any corrosion. Maybe your boat is wired weird and you aren't getting enough juice there when the motor is hot. Remember when the motor is hot, everything else is hot too, degrading the performance of your wires, batteries, switches etc, especially if you are running a closed engine compartment. There's no way you should have a hard time turning that thing over if there are guys running 1000 HP blown big blocks and starting them with no drama, something has to be out of whack, you just have to track it down-Aluminum Squirt
All new cables ( Ground is # 2 to the block and hot is fine strand welding lead that is at least # 2 or better. from the new battery switch) If my key switch is bad or had a ground could that be stealing juice ?
If you have any doubts about the switch bypass it at the starter. A jumper wire,( yes you can use a screwdriver but you also screw up any threads you touch), from the large "hot" to the "s" solinoid terminal. If the motor cranks well from there the problem is between the battery and the starter. I would suspect the battery switch, one of those "pergo" deals, right?. I would go directly to the starter from a good hot battery and see if you get the same results, (dragging). As far as timing, I run 38* locked out with 13:1 with stack injection and a bone stock GM starter, no small high torques for me, and an optima red top. Another possible situation to explore is heat, as mentioned, all the copper windings in a starter are suseptible to expansion. When the field windings expand, and the armature expands, the gap between them is greatly reduced and the magnetic field that makes it turn is crippled. Another note here, back when the Corvettes had BBCs the exhaust was really close to the starter, causing the same problem. Chevy came up with a fix.........A weaker solinoid return spring, yes, just a spring, it had a part number and all, and was how the dealerships cured the Corvettes. The parts store I worked in ordered a dozen from Chevy, and would sell them to "fix" this condition in various street and strip cars.. I assume you do have a GM high torque starter???????..........MP
Had a similer problem, and it was the welding cable I used from the battery to the starter. It ohmed good with a meter, but the starter would not even turn although there was a full 12 volts. Turns out, I had a full 12 volts, but no current. Changed cable, problem solved.
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