Screwing into new floor

[V1800J]

I just put a new floor in the boat and need to mount the manual place diverter. I almost hate screwing into the new floor because I know that is a direct route for water. I know you should put silicon on the threads when installing the screws. Any other advice?
Thanks

[martan]

I just put a new floor in the boat and need to mount the manual place diverter. I almost hate screwing into the new floor because I know that is a direct route for water. I know you should put silicon on the threads when installing the screws. Any other advice?
Thanks
Use the right size bits. If you don't drill the right size hole in the glass, it's going to make it delaminate from the wood around the screw. I always use 5200 whenever wood is involved. It's not worth risking a leak when things can rot.
www.bowkersfiberglass.com

[MudPumper]

I just put a new floor in the boat and need to mount the manual place diverter. I almost hate screwing into the new floor because I know that is a direct route for water. I know you should put silicon on the threads when installing the screws. Any other advice?
Thanks
Yeah, don't drill holes in the bottom of your boat. If you have a false floor then no problem, run the floor mount control and bolt her in. If you don't have a false floor, run a stringer mount control. If you don't have stringers to mount to, run a hydrolic diverter.

[SmokinLowriderSS]

Go to the hardware store and buy some brass machine thread inserts, drill the proper size to put those in and epoxy them into place. Use a good slow-cure (24 hour, not 15 minuite) epoxy, then either silicone or anti-sieze the bolts into them. You will never have these pull out of the wood in done right like lag-bolts will, especially if/when the lag bolts start to rust..

[Bow Tie Omega]

It does not hurt to get the epoxy resin in the self mixing tube and put a little on a swab or small brush and rub along the exposed edges of the hole you drill. The epoxy as a sealant is about as good as you can get. If you have the time, let the epoxy cure before actually inserting the bolts so you can remove them if needed some day. I am in the process of doing the same with my floor as well. Remember though, once the epoxy dries, silicone is your friend.

[BLEWBAYOU1]

Like Martan said, I only use 3M 5200 where I don't want water to get in. I use it on all my motor mount bolts through the stringer and all below water line bolts. It's tough to remove but well worth the trouble.
Brian

[DUCKY]

I used the brass thread inserts for a long time and have found something better. It's called a "Toggler" and they are available at West Marine. The 1/4-20 ones require a 1/2" hole. After you drill the holes, seal up the exposed endgrain in the wood with resin or epoxy with a Q-tip. Then install the togglers and bolt her down. You need at least 2" clearance behind the panel (or floor) you are attaching to. I couldn't find them on the internet, but they are manufactured by Garelick, and are intended for mounting seat pedestals onto floors where you have no "behind panel access. They either come 2 to a pack or 6 to a pack. If you have any trouble, call me and I'll send you some.

[DelawareDave]

Toggler (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...001/371/355/13) I have used these before.
Another option would be to epoxy another block where you want to mount your control. Use screws that won't go all the way thru the block and damage your new floor.

[Bubbajet]

I like to fiberglass blocks of untreated wood or plywood to floor.For seat mounts,battery box,and diverter handle.

[Classic Daycruiser]

I would not worry about a screw breaking through the floor resins. Your floor will last a long time, then will need it redone again.
I find that most problems with floors are from leaving the boat outside where moisture can enter your boat. 10-15 trips to the lake a year will not do the kinda damage your trying to prevent. Keep it dry and it will last for 20-30 years.