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Thread: Racing mods

  1. #1
    Need some info as to what to do to make my Sanger flat race legal. I have the NDBA rules, need some clarification.
    1. No chrome running gear. I am stripping the chrome from my strut and prop, buying a new rudder with no chrome. Is any coating legal? Powder coat? Nickel plate? Paint? I live in a humid area and don't want to chase rust constantly.
    2. Driveline cover. How much of a cutaway is allowed to get at the front flange bolts? Does the cover have to be one continuous solid piece?
    3. I need a whirlaway, anyone have one or know of one? Which is best?
    What else do I need to know to pass inspection that the rules do not make clear?

  2. #2
    is the NDBA still around??? usually they will allow painted underwater gear. your driveline cover does not have to be one piece (that would make it hard to get on and off wouldn't it?). if you make it easy to get on and off you shouldn't need any openings in it. Call Tom at Menken's for a whirlaway his # is at the top of this screen. Take this for whatever it is worth, the reason they don't allow chrome underwater gear is that supposedly chroming metal makes it weaker. Now i don't know if this is true or not but i do know if it is true then grinding it off probably doesn't help too much.

  3. #3
    one more thing go to tech as early as they will let you. the first time out with a boat they will almost always find something you missed or forgot and it is nice to have a little time to fix or add what you need. GOOD LUCK!!!

  4. #4
    have raced NDBA rules for several years, not sure I understand them all, but I will address what u asked as far as i know.
    Best if nothing on underwater gear, must be able to inspect parts for cracks.
    Driveline cover there mainly to keep anything from winding around spinning parts. Mine is a piece of chrome 5" exhaust header type material split horizontally and held in place with a large radiator type screw clamp on each end. has about a 1" gap on each side length wise, parallel with the bottom of the boat.
    Not in the rule book, I dont think, but have been requested to have an in line fuel shut off with a lanyard attached to the driver, on a blown inj application, with mechanical fuel pump. I think the book says only a "quick action shut off" which I always thought was just a regular push/pull knob deal on the dash, but when Kenny Darden was doing insp for NDBA he always wanted the in line thing. I think one of the IHBA tech guys wanted it too.
    Good luck, Hope to see u at the races.

  5. #5
    Hello, leave the underwater stuff bare metal, you can put the crack check on it between each round. You cant see a crack with paint or chrome covering it up. I think the paint would come off anyways...? Them smear a thick coat of grease on it when your done.

  6. #6
    Thanks for the responses. It just seems odd that all race boats out there have rusty struts and rudders or someone crawling under a wet boat to smear grease all over them. What about inside the barrel? Some type of cladding would be better like electroless nickel or black oxide. The driveline cover according to the rules must be 1/4 thick aluminum or 1/8 steel, right now I have a 2 piece chrome sheet metal cover, the adapters are for 5 1/2 diameter. Do I get two pieces of thick tube that telescope inside one another?
    Anyone from the east or midwest that knows the eastern circuit, advice appreciated.

  7. #7
    driveline cover: yes that's exactly what you do. underwater gear: we always left ours bare and sprayed wd-40 on it before and after each run.
    [This message has been edited by boat030 (edited February 19, 2002).]

  8. #8
    LeE ss13
    Also, the engine mounting bolts must stick though the attaching nuts 1 1/2 times their thickness. The rudder can not move side to side at all. Grease it just before tech. The safety collar on the prop shaft must be close enough to the stuffing box to keep the shaft from pulling out of the coupler. The kill switch must work. The driver seat must be very firm. Is this NDBA somewhere other than California. We had an NDBA, but it disbanded in the early '80s.
    LeE ss13
    [This message has been edited by LeE ss13 (edited February 19, 2002).]

  9. #9
    Lee NDBA is a common thread that ties SDBA, SLDBA, CSDBA, and a couple of other **BA's together by a common rulebook. ADBA was the other major player there in NDBA but they were aquired by IHBA last year and made IHBA Div 3. Now to elaborate a little further upon what Jim was asking about chrome and what Mike's (030) answer was. Michael is exactly right, the chroming process upsets the temper of any heat treated piece such as your rudder, strut etc. Stripping the chrome off may satisfy some tech folks, but defeats the purpose the rule was initiated in the first place, to protect you the racer from critical parts on the boat becoming compromised due to improper thermal cycling after heat treat. As I see it you have a few options, 1. leave it stripped of chrome and continue on with what you have, 2. normalize, check for cracks and re-heat treat any piece that was chromed, 3. replace the pieces with new stuff. I think option 1 is no bueno, and option 3 is probably overkill. Option 2 is probably your best bet. Good luck to you in NDBA.

  10. #10
    Two reasons for the "no chrome rule" one: Chrome hides cracks. two: hydrogen embrittlement weakens the metal.

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