Reply With QuoteHere is a compilation of info I have collected from the Hot Boat forums.
IÂ’ll help since some people donÂ’t want to
Here is what I found for info...........
Special note you must level the keel, use an angle finder to set the surface where the jet units mounts. If itÂ’s a 4 degree intake set it between 4-5 degrees. One more thing fresh grind the hull and the intake (where it bonds to the hull) just before you install the intake.
INSTALLING INTAKE
There are four 3/8 – 16 tapped holes in each mounting flange that is used for jackscrews. These screws allow for setting of the intake to the proper angle.
a. Set the intake in the hull with the four jackscrews installed.
b. The bottom center of the intake at the front of the intake must be flush with the bottom of the hull at the front cut-out use the jack screws at the front of the intake to hold your setting.
c. Using the jackscrews at the rear of the intake to move the intake up or down. Set the machined surface (where the pump unit bolts) at 4-5 degrees relative to the keel.
d. Check the intake to insure that it is level with the hull side to side.
e. Tape around the perimeter 1 – ½” from the cutout. (This makes your epoxy job look much nicer.)
f. Mix your bonding compound according to the instructions. Place the compound around the cutout and also the mounting flange of the intake.
g. Set the intake in the hull so the jackscrews come in contact with the hull.
h. Double check the intake setting.
I. Smooth out and fare in the compound to the tape line also smooth out the compound on the bottom side of the intake.
j. Remove the tape.
k. Wait for the compound to kick-out.
L. Drill the mounting holes with a 17/64” drill.
m. Counter-sink the drilled holes for Flathead Machine screws. (From the outside of the hull.)
n. Use bonding compound under the heads of the machine screws to make them water tight. Install screws, washers, and nuts.
o. Mark and drill transom mounting holes.
p. Mark and drill cutout holes.
q. Complete transom cutout.
SPECIAL NOTE: If you are using a HIGH-PERFORMANCE INTAKE you must follow these steps to insure the ride-plate centers up with the bowl.
a. Bolt the ride-plate to the intake.
b. Bolt the jet-unit to the intake and to the transom but do not tighten. Use the gaskets provided.
c. Set the yoke on the ride-plate.
d. Move the jet-unit side to side to line up with the ride-plate and yoke.
e. Tighten jet-unit and transom flange bolts.
Here is more info.......
This is not something that I would recommend for just anyone to try. I will make a short explanation and let you take it from there. I recommend having the installation done by someone with experience. If the front of the intake doesn’t sit deep enough to make a smooth entry from the keel, you may have to do a little grinding in the bottom of the boat to get it deep enough. Once you have that done, you need to set your intake angle. I use a digital angle finder with an alternate “0” setting. I use the flat on the bottom of the hull next to the intake as the point from which I reference my intake angle. Just lay your angle finder on the bottom side of the hull along side the intake cut out, hit the alternate “0” button, then set the angle finder on the pump flange on the intake, then adjust the depth of the intake at the rear to achieve your desired intake angle. Make sure the intake is centered and sitting square side to side. There is considerable more detail to this operation, but this should be just enough rope to get the hanging started.
Originally Posted by old rigger
what nobodyÂ’s mentioning is how or what you level the intake too. No matter what degree you decide to set the intake (every hull is different so I wouldnÂ’t even begin to suggest a number) you need to level the mounting flange of the intake, the part that the pump bolts to, to the lifting strakes. So after you set the intake where you want it with the front and rear set, you now have to go back and level it to the hull. Some mistakenly will pull measurements from the inside and go from there. This is the wrong way to do it because no two boats outa the same mold are the same on the inside. You need to set them to the strakes. The two center ones will do just fine.
If youÂ’re going to let the putty kick over night with only the four leveling bolts in the intake, you need to place some dead weight on the intake to keep it from moving, make absolutely sure there will be no movement until it kicks. ItÂ’s not a bad idea to install at least two of the mounting bolts to help keep the thing in place. Just tighten the nuts finger tight. The reason behind not installing the bolts at the same time youÂ’re installing the intake is to prevent pulling a hook in the bottom by over tightening the bolts. ItÂ’s not really necessary to do it this way, but if youÂ’ve never done one before, it might be the way to go.
After youÂ’ve mixed the putty and put the stuff around the edge of the intake hole, you can drop the intake in and work the putty smooth. Have a little can of water handy and dip your fingers in it and then rub the putty, making sure there are no voids anywhere. Pull the tape that you laid down before hand and clean up any little globs of putty with a rag with some acetone on it.
Go back and check the putty every 20 minutes or so until it kicks, it has a habit of sagging a little, so with your little can of water you can get your fingers wet again (and I mean really wet. Not just dip your fingers and go. Let them soak and get really moist, the putty will stick to any part of your skin thatÂ’s not wet, so get them nice and dripping) and work the putty back in shape, gently rub the putty. Too much pressure and you can squeeze it out of place. After an hour or so, the putty will be firm enough for you to go have a beer and pat yourself on the back.
In the morning you can coat the heads of the counter sunk bolts and install them in the holes that you already drilled and counter sunk. Finish them off with some putty, covering them completely, again using your wet finger, smoothing out the putty.
You can choose to do the bottom of the intake when you set it, or the next day when youÂ’re under there doing the bolts. Just make sure if you do it the next day, youÂ’ve removed any dripping putty that squeezed through when you plopped the intake in place.
This was by far my favorite part of rigging a jet boat. You can make or break a high performance set up by screwing up the intake. All the horsepower in the world wonÂ’t make up for a poor setting. After I look at a boatÂ’s bottom, the intake installation is the next thing I check out. You can tell everything about the boat and who rigged it by this alone.
The information above was posted by other people on here. I just found the info for you and copied it to here. I just went through this last weekend. It can get frustrating but its not that bad. Trust me, I was saying every bad word in the book. The one thing I will say is that you might need 2 kits of “seagoin poxy putty” to get it done. Print this info and read it 6 times!!!!! If you still don’t understand pm me with your number and I will call you. I used a digital angle finder/level for mine. You can order it from j&L tool supply. They are small nice, accurate and easy to read. This makes the job easier.
