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Thread: Lets talk Valve springs and retainers

  1. #11
    WannabeRacing
    We have tested the Doug Herbert titanium retainers to astronomical numbers. I have never seen one fail. And they are 59 bucks for a full set. So, why not run them. You are not in the rpm band to desperately need them, but any lightening on this side of the rocker arm is helpful for any rpm. (And rumor going around that Doug actually ran a set of his retainers on his fuel car to prove they work. Cannot confirm, although a worker at Dougs parts store did tell me it was more than a rumor.) If you are afraid of them, then run the tricktitanium ones for 100 bucks a set.
    10 degree locks are manditory in my mind. Boats see hard time, don't skimp on this. And like Chris stated, gives room for a lash cap if you want to go that route. Pull one 7 degree through and it will cost you 1000 times the cost of the 10 degree locks.
    There are not that many spring manufacturers. These individual cam companies do not make their own stuff. So look for the material, the installed heights, the pressures etc that you want to run, and forget about the name on the box. The 'superclean' springs, as they call them, are usually worth the extra money, and will test out amazingly well day after day, month after month, and even year after year. Great endurance material.

  2. #12
    UBFJ #454
    These 'Guys' ... http://www.lsmeng.com/Springs.html ... get all their materials from the best suppliers in Japan and make springs for a lot of top NHRA, IHRA, NASCAR, IRL, CART and, Formula 1 Teams. Their not cheep, but, they last in some very harsh environments.

  3. #13
    502 JET
    Don't trust mass production manufacturers. I would have the (ready to bolt on) heads checked for guide clearance, spring rate, installed height, and proper valve job.

  4. #14
    GofastRacer
    I would never buy new heads assembled, I've never seen any that were setup for my particular application, so I'd have to strip them down anyways and get all new parts and start from scratch, and besides when I do them I'll know they're done "right"!. So why pay for a bunch of stuff you're not going to use anyways!.. Just my worthless .02!..

  5. #15
    steelcomp
    10 degree locks are not the hot set-up that everyone thinks they are.
    Michael, you don't need Ti retainers, and they won't last as long as a good set of chromoly ones. If you were only racing, that'd be different.
    What Art said about heads. Buy a bare set and build (or have them built) yourself. If you're running a roller, you'll want to run severe duty valves. The cam grind will dictate springs, and once you know what you need AFA installed ht, seat pressure, rate, etc, you can shop. Buy a good super-clean like CStraub said. Isky Gold Stripes, KMotion, Crower, and others like them. IMO, springs are no place to skimp. Valve locks are also critical. You can have the best valves and retainers, but stick a cheap stamped lock in there and you'll surely drop a valve. With steel retainers, 7* or 10* won't matter. If you go with Ti retainers, then the 10* are probably all you'll find, but the best set-up is the super 7, which is a 7* retainer ( better than a 10* in that it provides better clamping force on the stem) with a lock that will not allow it to pull through the retainer. You won't be running spring pressures to worry about that, though. All the hype about 10* retainers dosen't apply here.

  6. #16
    396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
    If I have to spend a few extra 100 for better stuff then so be it. I am looking for longevity. I dont run my boat wide open for no longer than 15-20 seconds at a time. I will usually be in the 4000-5000 rpm range with the new motor unless the water gets calm. Then the R's will be hanging around 6k but not for 10 miles. Hell I cant stay in it that long even if I wanted to. THe water is too rough where I boat.
    Thanks for the info fellas I really appreciate it.......

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