Impeller A or AA??? or ?????

[Rondane]

Do you run a droop? If so then you NEED a "prime-a-jet" from www.hi-techperformance.
If your cavitating that pump then I would say run an inducer. I installed one this year and my holeshot is ridiculous!!!!!!!!!!!! and Im runing a bronze "B" cut impeller......
Theres a shop on ebay who sells prime a jets for $38.00 not $49.95. Item number 180042820479. You should get the pump apart and see whats going on in there as it sounds like something happened before thinking adding an inducer. Just a thought.
Thats an interesting story richardtill, never heard that before. I'm sure don what have loved to hear that bless his soul. You should maybe put a snoot on to get that 3mph back and compliment your setup. My .02.
rondane.

[TIMINATOR]

The only time I have seen an inducer slow a boat down was when it was added to a boat with a high rpm engine that couldn't pull the impeller cut that was in the pump. A "V" blocker grate was used to starve the impeller of water so that the engine could turn the impeller to the rpm it needed to be at "on the cam". This is what blocker grates do. We are NOT discussing tail "lift" here, tail lift only changes RPM if it changes impeller load. If the blocker grate is removed and replaced with a normal loader grate and the RPM goes down, impeller starving is what was happening, whether you believe it or not. This setup is common in drag boats and not seen TOO often in lake boats. When a blocker is run in a lake boat at high speeds for very long, impeller "burn" (cavitation) is commonly seen, as are cracks in the impeller. The next thing usually done is to add a stainless impeller "because I have so much Horsepower that the aluminum impeller can't handle it". We can allways tell who uses blockers, because they are the guys that brag about how much Horsepower they have, based on the engine RPM/Horsepower impeller chart. Those charts are essentially worthless. They are entirely dependent on impeller loading. Change the grate and change the load and it changes the RPM,change the nozzle size, same thing, but did the Horsepower change? So much for the chart..... An aluminum impeller that is PROPERLY loaded will absorb 1000 HP for a long time.
Also, some auto transmission high stall torque convertors restrict the fluid flow within the convertor to alter the stall speed, and "hit" characteristics too. Same principal. For further info, ask the pump MANUFACTURERS, (Dave and Ron). You will get less B.S. that way. Let the s--t storm begin! TIMINATOR :argue:

[bp]

if your pump is nice and tight, plus a droop, you have an upside down loop seal and there's no place for the air in the top of the bowl to vent to when you slide the thing off the trailer. opening the bucket -may- help a little bit by trying to force flow from the bucket forward as you launch, but you still may have air trapped. an airbound pump won't move water. many years ago, i lost the first elimination round i was ever in, because the pump was air bound, and by the next weekend, i had a primajet installed, and i've never worried about it or had anything similar to that since.
IMO, a cav reducer needs to be blueprinted out of the box, just like an impeller does. i've been running one for 10 years and it's a significant asset to my pump's performance.

[jweeks123]

Let the s--t storm begin!ok
An aluminum impeller that is PROPERLY loaded will absorb 1000 HP for a long time.why would you mislead people into thinking that might be true in the real world?
jw

[b's sanger]

ok
why would you mislead people into thinking that might be true in the real world?
jw
I wouldn't trust a cast aluminum impeller with that HP. A forged billet piece now that may be a bit different and probably dosen't even exist yet.

[bp]

I wouldn't trust a cast aluminum impeller with that HP. A forged billet piece now that may be a bit different and probably dosen't even exist yet.
smart. ss or bronze will work ok too.
Originally Posted by TIMINATOR
Let the s--t storm begin!
ok
no point, black hole.

[Cs19]

Hey guy's I have a 1979 Sanger SuperJet with a blown 461 BBC Pushing around 900hp. I have alot of cavitation out of the hole. I have heard about a pre-impeller but don't know much about them??? I Pump is a Berkeley jg with a bronse A impeller. The Jet takes about 15-20 seconds to "prime" is the best word I can use to discribe it before the boat will start moving when I first set it in the water. After the inital "prime" it move right away after it been sitting (in the water). Anyone know what the deal is???? It did not do this prior to the "rebuid". The pump was rebuilt about two years ago by J and A marine in Sac. I really love this boat and have lots of time and of course $$$$$$...... money in it it run ninty three on GPS BUT..... I want to go faster da....... So what can I do????
Either just deal with the delayed priming or get a prime-a-jet. Its that simple.
We cant help you on the go faster deal unless you post a video or pictures.
I wouldnt be concerned about it now having a problem priming,the air was probably escaping through a gasket prior to the rebuild, if you put a droop on during the rebuild that is most likely why you are now having this happen.
My jet does this as well, I just wait for the prime and Im on my way.

[Ken F]

As stated, your problem is that you have air trapped inside your bowl at launch. The Prime-a-Jet is your answer.
However, order one from Hi-techperformance.com, not off of ebay.
He's the one who invented it, and his works. The ones on ebay are a copy, and a crappy one at that! Buy the good one first, not after the cheap one didn't work.
Ken F

[sdba069]

For what it's worth....... I've had boats that with the addition of a droop would have problems loading on the initial startup when you first back in the water, but not after that, or I should say until it was on and off the trailer again. On these same boats, the installation of an inducer cured that problem. Before anyone jumps all over that, in not any of these cases were the inducers installed for that purpose, but ended up being a little fringe benefit. I'm not trying to recommend to someone to buy an inducer to cure a loading problem on startup, by any means, but if you do install one to help with slippage on the holeshot, as a bybroduct, it may cure the loading problem also. My Pro Limited boat would be loaded before I could get off the starter button and it never had that vent deal on it. On another note, How about that Timinator guy ????????

[TIMINATOR]

I have run my 21 Daytona with an aluminum American turbine impeller for near three years, no problems, 113 MPH. The intake pressures were balanced top to bottom, and EVERYTHING in the intake and suction housing was smoothed and blended. It used a stock, untouched impeller and inducer. The loader was cut, modified and worked numerous times. I replaced the aluminum impeller with a stainless Agressor impeller after nearly 3 years, better holeshot, no other changes. Many local Phoenix peeps have looked and seen the impeller up in there because they didn't believe it was aluminum, and many have ridden in the boat too. Rather than say it can't be done, ask how to do it or try it yourself. Again, the pump mfgrs. know how, its no secret. I still have the old aluminum impeller on the shelf too. Cavitation is a lot like wheel-hop on a drag car, if you have it, you better have good parts, if a smooth application of power is attained, lighter duty parts can be used. Analyzing everything has its benefits, but its not for everybody. TIMINATOR