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Thread: Construction experts...need some suggestions

  1. #1
    who is into construction? I have a few questions about building on a concrete slab.
    I am thinking of building a small shed / workshop and just have a few questions. The shed will be 12'x10' (120sq.ft max without permit) It will be wood frame construction.
    I don't want water getting into the shed so attaching the 2x4 to the patio slab with .22cal or redheads is probably out of the question. Anyway to seal off so the shed doesn't get water?
    Other thought was building a 4.5" x 4.5" concrete base for the walls to mount to in order to keep the walls off of the patio. but then I understand that new concrete doesn't seal or stick well to old concrete slab. so I am sort of lost there..
    Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    When you pour the slab make sure it is up off the grade by several (llike 6) inches. Use treated lumber and put j bolts into the slab. Then you can use them to hold down the bottom plate. Use Jiffy seal under the lumber and wrap it up under the building wrap. Make sure the weep screed is below the plate line when you put the siding on.

  3. #3
    or ! you could just form a 8" curb around the perimiter (sp) then pour concrete inside of that with dowels from the curb and a rebar mat then just bolt down your bottom plates .........wala!

  4. #4
    Is the slab new or existing? If it's existing drill and expoxy some re-bar or bolts into the existing slab, then pour a small 4" curb around the base for the building. The rebar/bolts will help the curb "stick" to the existing slab.
    I also like to roughen up the surface of the concrete I'm pouring on top of and use a good concrete "glue" to promote the new sticking to the old.

  5. #5
    You are building this on an existing patio slab.......I read it a little closer.
    I would use a row of concrete block or form and pour a short stem wall. Scarify the slab first and dowel in some short rebar sticks every 24" or so. To bond them better, roll on a concrete glue prior to pouring. Oil up your form boards so they will release easier. You can hold forms in place with stakes nailed across the tops. If you screw the forms together its less stress on the new concrete if you dissassemble them than if you beat them loose with a hammer.
    You can add a few J bolts into the stem wall to hold down the bottom plate. I'd still recommend the Jiffy Seal and wrapping it up under the building paper. Keeps the bugs out much better than not doing it.

  6. #6
    we need pics of the slab you are placing the shed on

  7. #7
    Pictures would be very helpfull.....
    If you are adding onto a slab with a curb (small stem walls) remember that the cold joint (where old meets new concrete) will NOT be waterproof.
    MAKE SURE your above your soils grade and like previously stated install your drip screed (stucco or siding?) below the cold joint. You can drill into your old slab and epoxy "all thread" into it making sure it will be sticking 2 1/2 inches ABOVE the top of your new perimeter concrete walls. This will allow you to bolt your treated wood plate down and keep everything in place.

  8. #8
    ok...I will have to take picture and then put them up for you to look at them. I will have to wait until tomorrow though, since it is already dark outside.
    remember that the cold joint (where old meets new concrete) will NOT be waterproof.
    This is the area that I was trying to figure out how to waterproof....what can I do in this situation?

  9. #9
    Why not just build a stem wall out of block on the existing slab, and run floor joists off of it, and the run the weep screed down over the stem wall.
    Just like a new construction raised foundation.

  10. #10
    Before you deside to bolt that puppy down make sure you check your local codes... most say somthing about it being "movable" some countys let you bolt it down some don't...

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