89 2.4 xri efi

[fkboatman]

need info on motor, worth using it or boat anchor

[Ron Hill]

The 2.4 isn't anything like a 2.5. but a 2.4, with a small prop will ski like crazy. If you were buying this motor, I would not pay more than $500....As the XR gearcase is the same as the old inline six...not too strong...
If you own this motor, I'd "OFF" the XR gearcase on E-BAY for whatever and look for a 4 1/2 inch gearcase...
Bujt agina, what is your plans for this motor...
My duaghter's 22 Rayson Craft runs great witha 2.4 carb motor....but we just ski and "PONDER" in Needles...

[Boatmaster]

The XRi is an EFI motor. It has the large case unlike the early xr4 150 motors. This is the last 2.4 and first EFI motor. It was a better version of the 1988 225 Laser. At the right price it is a great ski motor.

[fkboatman]

motor is on 18 laveycraft sebring, buddy bought boat in boulder city neveda, going to pick up boat over this weekend..... anyone have any ideas on set up engine height, set back, dimension and pitch and anyone want to guess speed. we are basically at sea level

[fkboatman]

The 2.4 isn't anything like a 2.5. but a 2.4, with a small prop will ski like crazy. If you were buying this motor, I would not pay more than $500....As the XR gearcase is the same as the old inline six...not too strong...
If you own this motor, I'd "OFF" the XR gearcase on E-BAY for whatever and look for a 4 1/2 inch gearcase...
Bujt agina, what is your plans for this motor...
My duaghter's 22 Rayson Craft runs great witha 2.4 carb motor....but we just ski and "PONDER" in Needles...
18 laveycraft sebring already a package

[HavasuDreamin']

That engine will be just fine and run very well on the 18' Lavey. I had a 1988 2.4 carb motor on my 19' Eliminator Daytona that ran real well until I fried it.
Set up is really going to depend on what you want to use the boat for. If you like speed at all, take precautionary measures to ensure long lasting life of your engine. Speaking from experience, here is what I would do:
1. Beef up the gear case to handle a surface prop. Add a heavy duty bearing carrier and if it doesn't have a nose cone / low water pick-up, have one installed (Bob's Machine Shop does excellent work).
2. Disconnect the oil injection and mix at 32:1 a performance lubrication.
3. Keep an eye on how hot the motor runs. You can pull the thermostats and replace with varying sizes of stainless washers (if necessary). Make sure you have a water PSI guage and that it reads no less than 10-12 PSI at WOT.
4. Make sure you have solid motor mounts and run at a minimum, dual ride guide steering.
On set up, I would run a jack plate that gives you some set-back especially if that hull does not incorporate set back (notched pad). Basic mods that would provide the most bang for the buck are a relieved exhaust and tighter heads. As always, prop choice is critical. My guess is a round ear or ET will work well.
Best of luck. That should be a fun boat. Post some pic's if you can.
HD

[fkboatman]

hd, please go to website of boulderboats in boulder city neveda and look up the laveycraft and tell me what you think its the only one they have, i would really appreiciate your input and advice, would mean alot

[Ron Hill]

http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forum...ighlight=lAVEY
I sold this Lavey of my nephew's for 3,671. It had a CLE gearcase, 2.5 carb, S-3000 Rods, and a Gene Trickel tuner...
The one is Boulder seems pretty nice.... Just an FYI what old Lavey Crafts sold for...
It is a great boat John Castelli and I did most of the bottom design work on the plug. Iowned the firs three Lavey MOD VP boats ever built.
Just any FYI: I thin the worst 2.5 will still push the best 2.4 backward fast enough to swamp it...

[HavasuDreamin']

Just any FYI: I thin the worst 2.5 will still push the best 2.4 backward fast enough to swamp it...
If you are looking for all out performance, the best foundation to start from, ease of making power, etc., you are right. But...the old 2.4's still ran pretty damn well. My 25 year old, heavy, non blue printed bottom, 19' Eliminator Daytona "Jet Boat", with a stereo, heavy old wood seats, and a STOCK 2.4L carb bridgeport ran 90.7 mph on GPS with too small of a prop....spinning 7,500-7,600 R's. My guess is it will swing a 28" prop a few hundred R's slower, but a few MPH faster. Oh yeah, it hasn't been apart since Jim Johnson put it together for me in Sept. 1996. I guess you could say I am partial to the 2.4's, but I will admit, a short shaft 2.5 drag would be nice.

[HavasuDreamin']

fkboatman, just from the pictures, I think that is a hell of a buy for $7,900. The boat appears to be in good shape and appears to have been set-up with some performance in mind. I has a nose cone LWP, jack plate, and appears to have dual ride guide steering. Someone else can correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that is a 200 xri, not a 220. I don't think Mercury made a 220 xri, and the 220 laser motors (which luckly that is not) were junk.
Again, I am not sure what your expectations are of the boat. If you want a performance oriented tunnel boat that looks good, runs well, is built well, has classic lines, and will provide years of service, you have found a great boat. Just don't go out there and expect to run with the big dogs. This boat, as well as mine, just aren't on the cutting edge of design anymore and won't keep up with a STV / Drag combo.
Like I said in my earlier post, take some precautionary measures to ensure your not wrenching on it constantly. Not trying to be a know it all, because I am not, I have just learned $$$$ the hard way over the last 15 years. Here are a few more things to keep in mind, some are repetitive and in no particular order:
1. It has a nose cone / lwp. It has a jack plate. You just saved some coin there because those aren't cheap.
2. Make sure you have a water PSI guage. It should. Make sure it reads 3-5 lbs when cruising around and no less than 10-12 lbs at WOT.
3. Make sure you have solid motor mounts. I don't believe those were stock on that motor.
4. I would have someone install a heavier duty bearing carrier than the one that is in it now. Gearcases, propshafts, etc. are expensive.
5. I would run no less than 92 octane, disconnect the oil injection and run 32:1 lube (especially if you run it at the top of its RPM band 6,500 +).
6. Speaking from experience again, put a wrench on the engine bracket bolts every 2-3 times out. Those things work themselves loose even if you have lock nuts on them.
7. Run a "transom saver" on your trailer. It extends from the trailer frame to the lower unit on the O/B and helps distribute the strain your transom has on it when going down the road with a 350 lb. outboard hanging off the back. Note that if that is an aftermarket nose cone, you should run the transom saver to the very bottom of the mid section instead so that you don't jar the nose cone loose. Again, another learning experience for me.
8. Ron Hill knows that bottom, so he may have some advice on prop and engine height, but my "guess" would be the tip of the nose cone even with the bottom of the boat as far as engine height goes (again, keep an eye on the temp guage and water psi guage) and either a round ear, or ET cut three blade, over the hub propeller, probably in the 26" range.
Best of luck. Nice Boat!!
http://images.traderonline.com//img/...85880212_1.jpg