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Thread: enderle tuning question

  1. #1
    Badburn
    On the regular square barrel valve that I have, there is a main bypass, and an idle bypass. Both have an adjustable spring loaded valves where the bypass hoses hook up.
    Does anyone know if these are both supposed to bypass fuel at idle?
    I would assume that the idle bypass should bypass at idle, and then stop bypassing when the barrel valve is opened.
    Not sure why there is a spring valve inline with the main bypass though.
    (this is a methanol setup if it matters)Anybody?

  2. #2

  3. #3
    Kurtis500
    On the regular square barrel valve that I have, there is a main bypass, and an idle bypass. Both have an adjustable spring loaded valves where the bypass hoses hook up.
    Does anyone know if these are both supposed to bypass fuel at idle?
    I would assume that the idle bypass should bypass at idle, and then stop bypassing when the barrel valve is opened.
    Not sure why there is a spring valve inline with the main bypass though.
    (this is a methanol setup if it matters)Anybody?
    Do you have a picture? I use Enderle and could help. I need a pic though, since some set-ups run blanks in bypasses depending on how you plumb it.

  4. #4
    Fiat48
    Take a picture of your barrell valve with bypasses in place so I can see the setup.

  5. #5
    Badburn
    Take a picture of your barrell valve with bypasses in place so I can see the setup.
    BAM............the clear hoses are temporary so I can see when they are bypassing. Im trying to perfect the smoothe idle and quick throttle resopnse.
    http://www.westcoastoutlaws.com/barrelvalve.jpg

  6. #6
    Fiat48
    The bypass on your left coming out of the bottom of the metering block is your idle check. Usually that is about a 2 lb spring. All main fuel bypasses through that check.
    The bypass on your right on your incoming fuel line is a high speed bypass. In that upper brass section above it....a high speed pill goes in there.
    That bypass will have a pretty heavy spring in it. Generally the spring pressure is set to bypass fuel above 7000 rpm.
    The main jet screws in behind the plug on the upper front section of the metering valve. Part throttle fuel control with this system is done by the slot in the barrell valve spool.
    Is this a first time running it or have you run this before?
    What size fuel pump do you have?
    What size nozzles do you have?

  7. #7
    Badburn
    Just to clarify, the one on the right is the main bypass, with the pill in it, and the one on the left is the idle bypass, the hi speed is in a different location(not in the picture) it is tee'd off of the main feed line near the fuel pump.
    What I am wondering is: what is the function is of the spring poppet valve on the main return line? Should it stop bypassing at idle?
    And also, when should the idle bypass stop bypassing?
    This combo has run quite well for 3 years, just trying to learn a bit and perfect the tune. I have a crisp clean idle, and it will idle for an hour, but there is a hesitation when you slam the throttle down hard.
    80A pump
    50/51 nozzles

  8. #8
    Fiat48
    Ok. That is not the normal way to run the main jet but it can work.
    However....you better check that where the normal enderle jet screws in into the metering valve....there is a blank installed. Blank meaning..no hole in the pill.
    A hesitation when you slam the throttle hard is a lean barrell valve setting. Just richen the barrell valve link. The way you have the linkage turned around there....that would be shortening the hex length. Injectors must have an excess of fuel at idle to cover up...because injectors have no accelerator pumps like a carb does. Hence the hesitation.
    If it is like you say...and there is a blank in the normal main jet holder....and this bypass on your main inlet fuel line is actually the main jet with your system....then that poppet should be a 2 or 3 lb spring and it should bypass fuel back to the tank any time the engine is running.
    Now since it is plumbed this way...I would imagine that the bypass on your left now has a slightly heavier (probably 10 to 12 lbs) spring in it and actually acts as a part throttle bypass. The only time this bypass can flow fuel is when the throttle is less than 1/4 open AND your system exceeds the pressure of whatever that spring is in there. Past 1/4 throttle...nothing will bypass through that line.
    If it works for you..then so be it. Its not the "normal" way an Enderle is plumbed...its more toward a "Kinsler" way.
    With an 80a pump and those nozzles....you shoudl be in the small main jet range of around 70 or so...and most guys dont run a high speed. The pump is your high speed.

  9. #9
    Blown 472
    Would I need the high speed bypass?? I was looking at this diagram and it is optional, what is it for?
    http://www.hilborninjection.com/PDF/installation.pdf

  10. #10
    Badburn
    ok, with alll that understood, what would I be changing by putting a different spring or a shim under the spring it these two poppet valves?
    If I understand this right, the valve in the main bypass is just to hold the main bypass closed for starting, thereby directing the fuel to the injectors until enough fuel pressure is built up to pop the valve open- then it stays open while the system is running. Would you agree with that?
    I dont really understand the purpose of the poppet valve in the idle bypass.
    I'm thinking if I can shut the idle bypass off a little sooner, it will cover the hesitation, and I can leave the barrel valve setting where it's at for a clean idle. Most of the time this engine is at idle while I'm driving to the store, the only time I throttle it is when the cops are chasing..can't have a hesitation then! :crossx: :crossx:

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