reclearing the top ????

[atxwrangler]

i need to reclear the top on the cheyenne,i am thinking i will use a good imron clear.my question is,is it absolutely necessary to remove the rub rail?has anyone cleared the top of their boat and left it on? what were the results??i don't want it to peel or bubble!thanx in advance!!!

[IMPATIENT 1]

let me tell ya from my experience last summer, pull the rub rail! i didn't and that where it started peeling and just got worse from there. thought i could save alittle time and it bit me in the ass. :220v:

[IMPATIENT 1]

marty, i've seen you do gelcoat work, why don't you clear gel the top?? never would have to worry as much about chips and scratches.

[atxwrangler]

i have seen the imron clear hold up really well and easy to apply,i guess that answers my question tom.i will pull the stinkin rail off!

[Nucking futs]

Use a clear gel coat. It will hold up longer and is more durable. Use the simtec clear (prestec)It lays down flat and minimal sanding. Shoot it,let it dry and then a rub and a polish. turns out bitchen. Just did my seats and floor in the SWTD.

[atxwrangler]

Use a clear gel coat. It will hold up longer and is more durable. Use the simtec clear (prestec)It lays down flat and minimal sanding. Shoot it,let it dry and then a rub and a polish. turns out bitchen. Just did my seats and floor in the SWTD.
i really hadn't considered it,but,now you all have got me thinkin! :idea: your floor looked great,i thought it was flowcoat!

[atxwrangler]

hey futs,can you give me a little more on the details of what you used,exact name,product number etc ????

[FryJet]

From a previous post I wrote.........
Finally something I can help out with. I tried the colorsanding, buffing and waxing deal just to have it fall out over one weekend. I decided to go ahead and clear the brown metalflake and it was the best thing I did for it. I used Martin-Senor Urathane clear, applied it fairly heavy and wetsanded and buffed the crap out of it. Alot of people get skechy about sanding metalflake but I can tell you it takes alot to go through it and even if you do happen to do it the clear will hide alot of it. Hit it with 600 grit, mask it, hit it with wax and grease remover, shoot it, wet sand it, buff it, wax it and your done. I did it in 2 full days. Hope it helps.
F.J.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...954upeF181.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...954upeF2E3.jpg
Oh ya, resist the urge to buy cheap clear, it wont last and isnt very tough. The UV protection is what really helps and you will pay for it. I used about half a quart, but when it was all said and done with reducer and all it was around 150.00, well worth it to me. I had to do the initial cut on mine with 600 just to get the orange peel out (my first time with a gravity feed gun ) so that tells you how tough this stuff is.

[Nucking futs]

Marty, The name of it is simtec (pestec coatings) product # 27x1a-18 super clear. I got it from Sher-Fab Unlimited
14629 Carmenita Road
Norwalk, CA.90650
562 921 5206
Call and talk to Don,he is the owner. I payed about 80 bucks for a gallon.
As soon as I lay down some graphic on the outside, I plan on shooting the whole thing with it. Its real easy to work with if I can do it.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/4...101AZs2zdw5Zsd

[HammerDown]

I shot clear over this original 1983 Gelcoat, I also taped off and used black base coat on everything black.
Used PPG's version of Emron (sp)...from what I was told they use this clear on airliners...very tough!
I did remove the rub rail, actually everything except the engine.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...re_045-med.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...re_049-med.jpg