Lick my dipstick - Milky good!

[79Hawaiian]

I found that lovely milk shake beige on my dipstick after a few hours at Pyramid today. I am draining it now, going to start pulling manifolds later tonight. Question is once I fix the problem how do I get all of the water out? I think I remember reading somewhere that you can add kerosene to the oil and run for a few mintues and then change oil to get water out. Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks!

[Hallett19]

Havent heard of kerosene, but I think you will be ok if you just drain it and put new oil in. If you put new oil in and run it, and find the "milk shake" effect is no longer present,then whatever water you have in there will burn out when you get the oil up to temp. Did you check your valve for you headers? make sure you arent getting reversion into the exhaust ports from flooding your headers with water at too low of an rpm. If you have a spring on the t-valve to your headers, those go bad and flood them. Good luck.
[ June 02, 2003, 01:04 PM: Message edited by: Hallett19 ]

[79Hawaiian]

I am not running headers but logg exhaust with over-transom pipes. The pipes are fed water but it flows right out the end. I have had this setup for 11 years and no water in the oil. I think the problem is the timing case cover. I pulled the plate that goes where the water pump would and found the seal was good. Two of the bolts came out wet with rust on them, a third came out with lots of oil. The hole where the oily bolt came out of had some oil seeping out.
I am no expert but I don't think there should be any oil passages that pass oil in a threaded bolt hole, am I correct?
I need to pull the front motor mount to get the timing cover off. I am pulling the engine Wednesday night. Since im there I think I will pull the pan and valve covers and try to get as much water out as I can. This gummy white shit is caked all over the breathers and the top of the dipstick, I am guessing the top of block is caked as well.

[Thunderbutt]

Come on, don't use kerosene, put in 10wt run it on the trailer then drain, do that two times if you have to. make sure you change the filter ea time.

[Hal]

Hallett 19 Had it right...

[79Hawaiian]

Thanks for the help. I am pulling it out of the boat just to be safe. I am not going to pull the heads, just the timing cover, pan, and intake. I should be able to get most the water out.

[Max_182]

You certainly don't have to tear it down just because of the water. Just change the oil. A small amount of moisture is no big deal. The heat of the engine will evaporate it from the oil in short order. Been there, done that, many times. That is, of course, assuming your motor developes heat! I know of some boats that run at room temperature!
Rk

[79Hawaiian]

It depends on what you consider a little moisture. By what the diptick read it was over a quart. I just pulled it and tore down the intake manifold, valve covers, and pan. The stuff looks like cottage cheese and is stuck all over the place. I cleaning it down, plan to finish tomorrow night and bolt her back together Friday. My plan is to get it back on the water Sunday for a test run.
And no, my boat does not run any temp. Should I install a gate valve to cook the rest of the water out? I have read lots of threads people saying to never use a gate valve to control temp.

[OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET]

I wouldn't. Remember your oil temp is always much higher than the water temp. If you run it at 4000 rpm all day I promise you any moisture left will be gone. I popped an intake manifold gasket 2 weeks ago and filled the lifter valley with that sludge. wiped it out put on new gaskets changed the oil and went. No problems yet and oil looks clean. no more chocolate milk shake for me. don't make a mountain out of an ant hill. And definitely don't intensionally run it hot. The oil will get over 212 degrees fahrenheit and if we all remember that is the temp at which water boils and turns to steam.
Omega

[79Hawaiian]

Sweet! Thanks again.