1968 Hondo 3 Water Intakes??

[daddy b]

:idea: I'm plumbing this thing today and not exactly sure about this old setup. Trying to keep it stock since there are 3 intakes.
One about mid boat, small, for the v drive.
One just behind the engine more towards passenger side, medium, ???????
One more near the front of the engine more towards the drivers side, BIG, ??????????
Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated. My first V drive. :rollside:
Big one is for the superchiller :argue: Little one is for the live well

[CircleJerk]

:idea: I'm plumbing this thing today and not exactly sure about this old setup. Trying to keep it stock since there are 3 intakes.
Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated. My first V drive. :rollside:
In my opinion, you dont need to plumb the v-drive for an exposed box (no upolstery over it) , just run synthetic lube for temps in the 120 to 150 degrees, unless your gear box is set up too tight then it will overheat! Use a #12 AN size intake of your choice and this will work with or without a pump. We run a 90 degree pickup and simply force feed for 6 mile racing. If you plan on slow cruising, then a pump may be neccessary. Some claim it is better to feed from one side of the prop or the other depending on its rotation. I use the feeds mounted on the cav plate just because they were already there and the boat had holes in it. So in your case, you really cant go wrong either way but you dont need 2 to feed the engine.

[daddy b]

Thanks Circle Jerk for commenting, the v drive is very tight to the seats so I may leave it hooked up since it is intact.
I don't want to remove or patch holes in the boat or remove intakes, however I also have two cavitation plate intakes on the shelf, which would require drilling a hole or two in the boat???
Are there any negatives to cooling v drive.
Should I use the large clam shell intake(damn that thing must slow the boat down, gotta be one and a half inches wide) or should I use the small inlet(Less than an inch wide)?
Thanks in advance,
daddy b

[CircleJerk]

Thanks Circle Jerk for commenting, the v drive is very tight to the seats so I may leave it hooked up since it is intact.
I don't want to remove or patch holes in the boat or remove intakes, however I also have two cavitation plate intakes on the shelf, which would require drilling a hole or two in the boat???
Are there any negatives to cooling v drive.
Should I use the large clam shell intake(damn that thing must slow the boat down, gotta be one and a half inches wide) or should I use the small inlet(Less than an inch wide)?
Thanks in advance,
daddy b
You're welcome, but consider the source,,,,I am a jerk. We have had big success in the #12 fitting on the cav plate that would also work as a thru hull if it is a bulkhead fitting and long enough. I like the 90 degree style in order to force feed sufficiently but most guys cut these off to a mild angle and run a pump. We have a Moroso drag race electric pump mounted on the motor which provides for a distributing manifold of sorts and the electric pump designed for a closed radiator style system. However, with a one way check valve on the intake side, this pump really delivers and the Blonde driver actually towed a Jones over 5 miles without any overheating!!! So, that's why I am a believer in NO rubber impellor style pumps that will break at the least convenient times! Ever try to dig the broken vanes out of your block and hose?? If your second fitting is somewhere close to a 12 or 1/2 -5/8 inch hose then that would work. Like I said some guys like the thru hull fittings where the prop forces the water up and into the block. I think both work and would not drill any new holes ANYWHERE! Now if you insist to plumb the v-drive, I would definitely go through it to insure there are no leaks allowing the H2O to mix with the lube and the gears. This can get ugly and not reccommended when considering the price of a gasket set and bearing puller verses new v-drive innerts.....! When plugging the unused holes, a quick fix sealant around the fittings is 'Plumbers Goop' found in any hardware store. This stuff seals and stays flexible and easy to remove when you decide which fitting to permanently plug. Way better than silicone or marine putty junk, and at 3.85 a tube, once you use it you will wish it came in larger quantities! There, the jerks secret is out! Hope this helps!

[sanger ss396]

the JERK help me put togeather my sanger flat bottom v-drive. I HAD NO IDEA WHERE TO START. he guided me on what to do. we did not run any water to the v-drive case. it has synthic lube. after running for 1 to 2 hours i can put my hand on the gear case. it is still warm yet it is not hot. i have a bench seat. which covers the gear box. beside that it is another place to have a water leak. i believe in the saying keep it simple stupid.

[GofastRacer]

Are there any negatives to cooling v drive.
Only one, "water in the oil" gotta make sure the cases are perfect. I would just run the Syntetic oil and cap off the pickup!..