Yep it's official. I have decided to get rid of my 455 and start building a BBC for the boat.
Ended up scoring an '86 Mark IV/Gen IV 454 that came out of an RV. $300, the motor has about 30,000 miles on it and is completely virgin (never been overhauled). No noticeable ridge in the bore at all and the bearings were cherry. My machinist told me he may only have to polish the crank. The only issue with the motor was piston scuffing. I did find some blueing on the original push rods so I'm assuming that this motor may possibly have been run low on oil at some time. The motor came with the peanut port heads so I'm scrapping those.
I also scored a set of '049' (casting #353049) large oval port heads from eBay. They have 120cc chambers on them, so I'll have to run dome top forged pistons to get the compression ratio I want (9.5:1). We'll be running stock rods and stock crank in this bad boy. I'm wanting to see anywhere from 450-500 horsepower out of this thing.
Any recommendations from you BBC guys as far as cam, valve size, hydraulic vs. solid lift, flat tappet vs. roller, roller rockers vs. stamped? I'll be running a Performer RPM air gap intake with a Holley 750DP carb, as well as a full MSD marine ignition. Also, can I run a stock replacement oil pump or will I need a high pressure or high volume oil pump?
This motor is being built for a jet with A impeller.
Jon
I thought you were building a 427 bbc stroked to 4.00 . LOL ... Just run a RV cam with those pee nutty heads , 97 inch lbs piston return springs, a good quality 1/4 " roller fuel line, dished cast pistons, cast iron spread bore intake with a Q-jet, and a 500 horse shot of nos. Should run tits .
But just remember what ever you build focker , you will still be behind me Biiiiiiioooootttchh. HA HA LOL . :crossx:
IRONMAN
How much money do you wnat to spend on the cam, roller or not?
I've got that very build working on a Hyd custom grind Iskendarian I got from DuaneHTP. With headers and those heads I'm making 400 HP, on the stock stamped steel rockers, on an 8.5:1 motor (well, maybe 8.3, don't know for sure). The small-valved heads are holding her back from more. When the budget lets me, they will get worked on, and I should be very close to 500 HP.
The pushrod "bluing" may be due to heat treat or ball attachment at the ends...The oil pump is the "heart" of the motor. You didn't mention the pan of choice, but the pump choice is critical. I would reccomend the Mellings 10777. Look into it, it has a bunch of cool features over the others. A little more money, but worth the difference.............You will need to make a screw in pick up for your pan unless its one of GMs finest............MP
The pushrod "bluing" may be due to heat treat or ball attachment at the ends...The oil pump is the "heart" of the motor. You didn't mention the pan of choice, but the pump choice is critical. I would reccomend the Mellings 10777. Look into it, it has a bunch of cool features over the others. A little more money, but worth the difference.............You will need to make a screw in pick up for your pan unless its one of GMs finest............MP
Smokin'...I was at first cosidering running the Comp Cams Xtreme Marine XM278 or XM288 (288 specifies that it is made for a 9.5:1 motor w/headers, jet A or B impeller)...however I think you and Duane may have me convinced on that Isky custom grind cam. He's even got it on special so I may be ordering a cam kit from him on Monday.
Moneypitt...as far as the pan, I think I'm gonna go with the 10qt Hardin Marine pan...those usually come with the oil pick up that's matched to the pan I do believe. As far as the blueing on the rods, the blueing is on the sides of the rods down toward the middle section of them, not toward the ball ends. I will be looking into that pump as well. Melling makes good shit.
As far as the valve sizes, I do believe we will be going with the 2.19 intakes and 1.88 exhaust valves. That much I do know.
I thought you were building a 427 bbc stroked to 4.00 . LOL ... Just run a RV cam with those pee nutty heads , 97 inch lbs piston return springs, a good quality 1/4 " roller fuel line, dished cast pistons, cast iron spread bore intake with a Q-jet, and a 500 horse shot of nos. Should run tits .
But just remember what ever you build focker , you will still be behind me Biiiiiiioooootttchh. HA HA LOL . :crossx:
IRONMAN
Ironman please stop bashing me. This is a very serious thread...I'm having to undergo a lot of meds to keep my stress level down because of all this. I mean, first I have to worry about you being burned from the spray of my headers when you're gonna be behind me for extended periods of time, and now you insult my intelligence!? Again please stop bashing me!!!:crossx: :hammerhea:
P.S. Anyone want to donate any money to help me with the cost of the motor build? Mine's in the mail!:crossx:
[QUOTE=Jetaholic;2297791]
Moneypitt...as far as the pan, I think I'm gonna go with the 10qt Hardin Marine pan...those usually come with the oil pick up that's matched to the pan I do believe. As far as the blueing on the rods, the blueing is on the sides of the rods down toward the middle section of them, not toward the ball ends. I will be looking into that pump as well. Melling makes good shit.
The melling 10777 uses a screw in pick up, something the pan makers haven't caught up with yet. You will have to fabricate/modify the pick up that comes with the pan by shortening and welding threads on the end instead of the "beat it in" common pick up..........Before you buy from Hardin, ask them if they have a screw in type pick up available?, and if not, why not?......MP
Thanks Moneypitt. I actually looked up the 10777, and Melling also has the 10778, which is the 10777 with the "beat in" style pickup tube mount.
However they also have the 10778C, which has the anti-cavitation grooves in it.
What is your opinion on the ac grooves? Are they needed?
Thanks Moneypitt. I actually looked up the 10777, and Melling also has the 10778, which is the 10777 with the "beat in" style pickup tube mount.
However they also have the 10778C, which has the anti-cavitation grooves in it.
What is your opinion on the ac grooves? Are they needed?
Melling tech line said they were doing the press fit pick ups eventually, good deal!!! As far as the grooves, I think they actually balance loads as well, so yes, that follows along with the mods necessary to the GM pumps to make them work..10778C, good news!!.....If they really have them now?.......By the same token, why can't the aftermarket pan manufacturers offer screw in P/Us?...........MP
PS: after looking into the melling improvments, also realize that the inside numbers are to a knats ass, no additional work was necessary to the ones I've opened up and inspected........
I just picked up a 10778C and it is a press fit and has the balance grooves, they are to balance the load and it also prevents spark scatter, they are for endurance type racing, in drag racing you don't need it!..
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