My question is, I just had this 396 rebuilt. Compression is 91/2 to 1 I believe. What would you think why I keep tearing up my starter gear up. I never had to put shims in it before. Is it possible that a stock GM starter is to weak for this application? And I need to get a high tork starter? Reason why I asked that is the starter I have in it now only puts out 12 lbs. and they keep getting chewed up. Even with 2 to 3 shims it still gets chewed up with a new flex plate. Yes, the flex plate is on right.....this time!
Thanks,
Robert
since its new you may need to run it so that it will "loosen up". The 396 is famous for being hard on parts. I hope she's just a little tight and will get better with more time.
I've never run with shims and have had two starters. The first was a full size the next is a high torque mini powermaster.
How are you fitting these shims? on the engine side or boat side?
on the engine side , it never had this problem till they rebuilt it , i got about 2 hrs on the motor 396 90 over
yea, I'm thinkin' she's just real tight with that low of hours. Have you checked the clearence between the two gears....should be able to fit a paper clip between the two.
Take it out and run the heck out of it and it should get better...in the old days it wasn't uncommon to need two batteries with a freshly rebuilt engine due to it being tight.
What is tight now that won't be tight later? If the pistons are tight in the bores they won't last very long. If the bearings are tight on the crank, they too will die an early death. Sounds more like a weak battery and/or bad cables. I assume the starter in question is a high torque GM type unit. Years ago in a drag car we had simular problem. An 8D battery cured it. Smaller battery tech has come along way since then and the ratings are upward of 1000 cranking amps. A weak battery will allow the engine to kick back at the starter, which tears up drives and sometimes breaks the nose. A stout battery won't allow the engine to kick back... In over 40 years I have never had to shim a chevy starter, ever!! A "tight" engines could be the result of too much initial timing, or other more serious problems. But tight engines don't usually run as long as your's has..........In the PS boat, we run 13.1:1 with 37 degees in the mag, locked out, an Optima red top and a bone stock rebuilt GM high torque, (no shims) from one of the auto parts chains. Starts every time........MP
two batteries just thinking about that , it would be good thing,one battery 650 cca might need a bigger battery..i will try that and put a hight torque starter in that might help i think
thanks for you help
moneypitt, sorry about that i posted after you did no on the starter, just a plan old gm starter
moneypitt, sorry about that i posted after you did no on the starter, just a plan old gm starter
Is there a spacer between the solinoid and the link into the starter? And step up the battery, at least 900 CCA if not 1000.........Or were you refering to one of the gear reduction high torques? I have seen more problems with those starters than any other single problem on the race circuit......MP
spacers no ,, the starter is from western auto,,i called them its not a hight torque
moneypitt, thanks for all your info on this
spacers no ,, the starter is from western auto,,i called them its not a hight torque
moneypitt, thanks for all your info on this
I think what you want is a 3510. That is a standard rebuilders number for a straight across bolted chevy high torque. Don't settle for the little chicken shit soliniod either. The required spacer is only abot 3/4 to an inch or so long, not the 2-2 1/2 that is required for the late model smaller soliniod........Also, serated starter bolts only!!!!!!.......MP
Western auto? where the hell are you??????
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