Unchained:
Those gaskets look like a good idea. Where did you get them from?
On turbo exhaust back pressure I was told that the standard of efficiency is when you can make more pressure in the intake then what you have in the exhaust. Mark Call Me The place is like: Down the street from a buddy's welding shop.
I havent tried the copper ones yet, but I've used the "Dead Soft Aluminum" header gaskets on several engines and love them. The header sinks into them as you tighten the bolts and once you get them tight and compressed, they stay there. I've tried to retighten the header bolts a few times, but they dont move. very good IMHO.
Unchained:
Those gaskets look like a good idea. Where did you get them from?
On turbo exhaust back pressure I was told that the standard of efficiency is when you can make more pressure in the intake then what you have in the exhaust. I got them form Orange County Speed. They were out of the ones I really wanted. Some fancy jobs made by Earls. You should check those out too. The are steel with some other goodies and a center section that looks like it would seal real good.
But these looked like they would be worth a shot so I got 'em.
Hustler, the headers are CMI and they have 3/8" S.S. flanges with lil rasied doughnuts like things where the tubes are.
superdave013:
the headers are CMI and they have 3/8" S.S. flanges with lil rasied doughnuts like things where the tubes are. Those doughnuts are called cool collars and their purpose is to supply adequate water around the flange area of the tube to pull the heat out of it so the tubes don't crack near the flange (a problem with some older CMI's). Just didn't want anyone to get em confused with the Boatcop glazed variety.
Rexone:
superdave013:
the headers are CMI and they have 3/8" S.S. flanges with lil rasied doughnuts like things where the tubes are. Those doughnuts are called cool collars and their purpose is to supply adequate water around the flange area of the tube to pull the heat out of it so the tubes don't crack near the flange (a problem with some older CMI's). Just didn't want anyone to get em confused with the Boatcop glazed variety.
Hey, do you have gaskets for the split tops?? Or should I just go direct to CMI.
Here is some pics of the flanges.
It looks like this and the raised copper gasket should seal up ok. I hope so at least.
[img]http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Gearhead_Garage/Other_Equipment/header_flange.JPG[/img]
[img]http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Gearhead_Garage/Other_Equipment/exhaust_gaskets1.JPG[/img]
Over all pic of the header just for grins.
[img]http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Gearhead_Garage/Other_Equipment/header_flange1.JPG[/img]
And a pic of the top flange that I need gaskets for.
I guess I'll give CMI a ring for them.
[img]http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Gearhead_Garage/Other_Equipment/header_top_flange.JPG[/img]
As long as the raised portion of the copper gasket matches the raised bead on the flange you should be fine. Those raised beads are designed to "crush" into a standard type gasket thus creating a seal. They've been used for years in automotive.
SD I can order those tube top gaskets for you from CMI if you like (not real common any more). Just let me know.
That CMI header looks like a well made unit.
Are you going to run them dry?
It should be an interesting looking piece to make the transition to the turbine flange.
Those tubes are spaced apart a bit. idea
My experience with copper gaskets are that they periodically have to be re-tightened every so often. Due to vibration and the gasket being so maleable (word perfect on that one).
HOSS:
My experience with copper gaskets are that they periodically have to be re-tightened every so often. Due to vibration and the gasket being so maleable (word perfect on that one). So they have to be re-tightened periodically and every so often?
Gotta love those dictionary racers! They never learn!
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote