Reply With QuoteI would let the engine break in before I made any judgement calls.
If the thing is brand new, it will run hot till everything meshes, seats, etc. Especially when cutting new rings, the thing will tend to get real hot.
I have always seen high oil temps with my big block engines. The Oil Temp sensor is located in the bottom of the 10 Quart Canton Pan. I have added a Huge Teague Oil Cooler, an HP6 Oil Housing/Filter and -12 Oil lines throughout to eliminate the Higher oil temps.
I have had my new 565 out for 1 hour of run time; After a good run at around 3500 to 4000rpm I'm seeing temps around 200-230. At Wide open around 5600rpm i can see a rise in oil temp up to 240 and climbing. I have always tried to keep 240 my ceiling. When I drop RPM back down to 4000rpm oil temps cool down pretty good. back down to around 180-190.
Will a water pressure regulator aid in dropping oil temps, is it possible to have too much water pressure. Sounds stupid, but I have friends with similar set ups that run butt cold on oil temps all the time.
I can't quite nail this one down.
My set-up is water in from the stock bravo drive pick-up to the sea water pump, to the oil cooler, to the power steering cooler into the engine then out the exhaust. I do not have a thermostat.
What do you guys think?
I would let the engine break in before I made any judgement calls.
If the thing is brand new, it will run hot till everything meshes, seats, etc. Especially when cutting new rings, the thing will tend to get real hot.
Here is some information from an old posting that might help you:
Below 180: Superflow recommends to not even load an engine on the brake below 180 degrees because on a hard pull damage may occur.
180-200: Min operating temp that you want to hammer hard on a performance engine.
200 to 230 Temp. This range is optimum for power and hammering an engine.
230-260 Temp: This range is the beginning where fatigue cam happen to bearings. Short runs in this temp range are okay but sustained running time within this range will shorten engine life. As pointed out also the max you want to push dino oils.
260 to 300: This range is the extreme for a performance engine and only recommened with synthetic oil. Some high end applications will run 275 to 285 oil temp but these engines get full teardowns after 3 to 4 hours of this time of temp. These are also drysump engine with 20 qt systems so oil break down takes alot longer due to the volume of the oil in the system.
Over 300: Not a question of IF, just When...
good luck
I think the ideal temp for my set up would be to run no hotter than 230 on hard runs.
Mike, out of curiousity, are your water temps holding steady? As far as water pressure, yes you can have too much, but, it wouldn't cause your oil temp to rise. My motors water system is set-up with the same routing. Is there a possibility that you are not getting enough oil flow through the cooler?
Darrell.
-Do you have the 30psi bypass valves in the block instead of the low pressure auto ones?
-Could the sea pump impeller be going bad?
-Do you have steam lines connecting the front of the manifold to the rear, on each side?
-Could there be blockage in the oil cooler on the water side?
Water temp never comes off the peg, always under 140 degrees. the only time the water temp will come off the peg is if I shut down the engine just after runnin a high oil temp.I will notice the water temp gauge reacting and showing the standing water temp in the intake manifold.
I know I'm getting good oil flow through the cooler due to the oil temps cooling down rather quickly at lower RPM's.
-Do you have the 30psi bypass valves in the block instead of the low pressure auto ones? I do not have bypass valves
-Could the sea pump impeller be going bad? Brand new impeller, i know i have tons of water pressure.
-Do you have steam lines connecting the front of the manifold to the rear, on each side? No,
-Could there be blockage in the oil cooler on the water side? I pulled the cooler apart and found absolutly no blockage.
Thanks for the questions
My water temp sensor is right behind the double neck water outlet coming out of the intake maifold to each exhaust manifold.
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To try and VERIFY that the temp gauge and sender are accurate, try shooting an infrared temp gun at the cooler, oil pan, and oil path.
To try and VERIFY that the temp gauge and sender are accurate, try shooting an infrared temp gun at the cooler, oil pan, and oil path.
Funny you said that, my mechanic and I were talking about that. He's going to let me borrow it my next trip out.
the oil temp gauge is prolly ok based on the temps your running at lower rpm. The water thru the cooler goes straight to the cooler and not thru something else first RIGHT? Sounds crazy but I've seen it way too many times. What kind of valve train are you running in that piece? Flat taappet and skid ball rockers will heat oil something fierce. If so, pop for syn. oil and your temps will come down considerably, if fact do it anyway
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