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Thread: How do I install my new rail kit ?

  1. #1
    1968Droptop
    I have my new Lightning rail kit in hand, and I need to know where to put the rails ? I know how they go, but where do I place them ? They're for my `94 21' Daytona.

  2. #2
    DelawareDave
    I put a straightedge on top of the stringers, and measured to the C/L of the pump. I had fabricated my engine plates myself, so I knew where the C/L of the crank was, in relation to the bottom of the plates. The top of the rails ended up being 3/4" below the top of the stringers, and parallel. I cut my rails lengthwise, to where the back is 3" behind the front face of the pump bearing, and they go froward to where the stringers drop down in height.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...3062Rail-1.JPG

  3. #3
    Taylorman
    Ive wondered what the proper way is to line up engine and rails to the pump when installing a rail kit.

  4. #4
    Taylorman
    Ive wondered what the proper way is to line up engine and rails to the pump when installing a rail kit.

  5. #5
    b's sanger
    Chris, you are likely going to need that oil filter adapter with that rail kit. It turns the filter parallel with the block so it dosen't hit the rail. Do you have a top mount starter, there may be space issues with the bottom mount kinsd.
    And you need to measure some things on your engine before yanking it out. Ideally at the same location in the garage you will be doing the work.
    -degree of engine front to back for reference, do the pump too while you're at it.
    -the space between the front/bottom of your oil pan and the hull.
    -distances to your stringers from the crank bolt.
    These will help dictate where to mount and drill holes for your kit.

  6. #6
    1968Droptop
    Chris, you are likely going to need that oil filter adapter with that rail kit.
    I have a remote dual oil filter w/ bypass.
    And you need to measure some things on your engine before yanking it out.
    I purchased it without an engine. It had a 454 in it before, 3-point mount style.
    These will help dictate where to mount and drill holes for your kit.
    In this case, they won't help me out at all, LOL ! I was told that I mount the rails even with the stringers, then cut my engine plates to get the right angle ??? I don't even have my engine yet, still a month or so away from that. I'm going to borrow my buddies 460 block for mock-up. Maybe that's where I need to start ???

  7. #7
    b's sanger
    I have a remote dual oil filter w/ bypass.
    I purchased it without an engine. It had a 454 in it before, 3-point mount style.
    In this case, they won't help me out at all, LOL ! I was told that I mount the rails even with the stringers, then cut my engine plates to get the right angle ??? I don't even have my engine yet, still a month or so away from that. I'm going to borrow my buddies 460 block for mock-up. Maybe that's where I need to start ???
    Make sure it has a similar oil pan for spacing. I offset my block and pump by about 2 degrees.

  8. #8
    wsm9808
    I have my new Lightning rail kit in hand, and I need to know where to put the rails ? I know how they go, but where do I place them ? They're for my `94 21' Daytona.
    There are several ways to go about it, but I prefer to just mock it all up and see how it fits and adjust it from there. But you will need a block with a crank in it, the drive shaft and oil pan.
    I start buy C-clamping the angle(rails) to the stringers where I think they need to be(you dont want to drill any holes yet). Then you can just set the block with the motor plates bolted to it onto the rails and see how it sets.
    You can raise or lower the engine buy moving the rails up or down the stringer or by trimming the mount plate "feet".
    You can buy an angle gauge at the hardware store or ebay for about 15.00. Use the gauge buy setting it on the bearing retainer housing face of the pump. record that angle. Then set the gauge on the rear motor plate(with the plate bolted to the block and setting on the rails) and lift or lower the front of the engine(pivoting the engine on the rear plate feet) untill the pump and engine angles match. Then trim or space the front plate feet to allow the engine to set on the rails at the desired angle.
    Once your sure of your engine position, you can drill the stringers and permenantly mount the rails.
    Here is a pic of the Daytona I'm building a rail kit for right now. I had to mill about an inch off the rear mount and 1.5 inches off the front and move the engine 5 inches forward to get it all properly in line with the low profile intake that is in this boat.
    http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...IMAGE055-1.jpg

  9. #9
    1968Droptop
    B: Thanks for the help B !! I forgot to add it has a top mount starter. I purchased a rear sump jet boat oil pan from Armondo's Racing, 7" in the rear, 8" in the front. There should be plenty of room for the pan.
    wsm9808: Thanks for the detailed response. I want to keep the rails themselves on the same plane as the stringers if at all possible. I think it looks better. I was under the impression that I would have to trim the front and rear mounting plates as needed to get the correct driveline angle. My concern was were to put the rails. I definately don't want to drill any holes until I find out exectly were they go. I filled the previous holes with dowels and resin, and I don't want to add any unnecessary holes.
    I thought there was a specific place to mount them. But by the responeses it just a matter of mocking it up to get it were you need it, right ???

  10. #10
    wsm9808
    The factory that builds a particular boat may have a specific spot where they mount things for consitancy in fit and speed when building hundreds of the same riggings. But I think the small shops, and us home riggers just put everything where and how we want/need it, and also to our particular taste.
    The Daytona in my first post already had holes drilled in the stringer from some previous rails, so I used those because I didnt want to swiss cheese the sringers with more holes. I would have liked to set the rails a little higher, but it works fine where its at. The rails are long on both ends for now, I will trim them to length once the whole boat is rigged, Sometimes you can use the extra length to mount fuel pumps, seat brackets, pump braces, battery mounts, etc.
    The rails in this picture are setting slightly higher than the stringers, so you can see there are several ways to go about it.
    http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...e/IMAGE025.jpg

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