Motor Parts

[INEEDAV]

Hello everyone,
Thanks for all your help to this point. I have taken the geneal concensus to this point and have decided to buy a hull and "save my pennies" to build a motor for it. Well I gathered 5000 pennies and bought a stock BBC. Well now I am ready to start building it. I need help setting it up for a marine applicaiton. Where do I gt all the parts needed to turn my big block into a boat motor? Need help for all the parts for setting it up. Thanks guys, in advance, for your help.
Billy

[INEEDAV]

That 5000 is actually 50,000. Have to excuse the fat kid. Little too much Shiraz to be typing.

[K3-River-Rat]

I'll take it for granted you are going to build this motor yourself? First of all I "hope" you have a 4 bolt block, if not you "will" have to get the 4 bolt caps before it goes to the machine shop and it will have to be converted into a 4 bolt main block! You have to make "sure" you have a "VERY" strong bottom end for a marine application or she's NOT going to to stay together for very long! It's pretty hard on a motor to spin it under a hard strain and/or a higher RPM range for a good run down the lake or river. How many RPM do you think you'll be turning when you have it "maxed out"?

[INEEDAV]

The way I am am planning is to run about 6500rpm max. I am planning on buying a Cole runner bottom, and want to run out around 90mph or so to start with. I have to keep the motor on a fairly tight budget to start with so I can't get carried away building. I have a fair idea what I am wanting out of the motor, but have no idea where to buy parts for a boat motor. Need as much help as I can get.
Thanks.

[K3-River-Rat]

As far as the internal components of the motor,high performance is high performance! Spinning a big block at 6000+RPM is "hard" on the crank rods & bearings. If you don't do anything else do "NOT" skimp on the bottom end of the motor ie:good quality forged steel crank,4 bolt main caps,forged I beam or H beam rods,forged pistons and a good High volume (not high pressure)oil pump. or you will find yourself out on the water a "VERY" short time and you'll be looking for "another" motor to build from "SQUARE ONE"!!! Save the "budget building" for the "lesser" important parts in the motor! A good place to buy "quality" parts "cheap" is Summit Racing Equipment and/or Jegs. Both places have websites,you can order online or order from their toll free order line. Most of the people that work there are experienced and/or knowledgable as to what grade of quality parts you should install in a motor for a "particular" application. Remember,you are "much" better off to have the bottom-end built up a bit "overly" sturdy because "NOT QUITE" sturdy "enough" will "BREAK" and "ALL" the money and time you have invested in the motor is now "history" and you "will" have to start "all" over again! Been there done that,I hadn't blown a motor in several "years" til I went back to playing with high perf. boats again! I was drag racing 13.5 to 1 full roller "race motors" and when I tore them down at the end of the season the crankshaft and bearings looked as good as they did the last time I had torn it down! So it didn't take very much "at all" to freshen it up for the following season. The big difference between a drag race motor and a marine motor is the fact that if you are 1/4 mi.drag racing you are running WOT for 1320 FT then shuting the motor down and then off. in a marine situation you may run at WOT 1/2 mi to a full mile or more which puts one "hell" of a lot of stress & strain on the crank rods & pistons etc. I have learned by trial & error,it has cost me more $$ than I care to think about. This year was the "first" time in over 20 years (that I can recall) that I have "broken" a motor because I didn't have a strong enough bottom-end So unless you have a "lot" of money to just throw away,take your time and "save" the money it will take to build "AT LEAST" the "shortblock" up good and strong and you'll be "big" money ahead in the end!!! GOOD LUCK

[stix818]

I agree with K3-River-Rat about the bottom end. I was on a similar budget but already had the bottom end together when I started. I was out looking for cylinder heads and came across some for a reasonable price. The Canfields aluminum cylinder heads (112cc chamber) we found for 1300 bucks and did a minor port work on them and had them flowed. We compared them to the Brodix II (with 3000 invested) figures and the Brodix II only out flowed the Canfields by a tad. They allow all standard components and are a nice set of heads for the money.

[superdave013]

I donno, sure every thing I build now is 4 bolt with carrillos and JE slugs but do you really have to?
I bought this boat for 5K running and drove it for 5 years showing it now mercy. I sank it twice and split the hull. When I parted it out the engine was still complete and running. It was a 2 bolt main 468 with 10-1 TRW slugs. It was a budget engine if I have ever seen one and it lived.
I ran 15 gears in it and it turned over 6K every time i took it out.
[img]http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Reader_Rides/V-Drives/my_old_flat.JPG[/img]

[K3-River-Rat]

Another thing that will help to keep your motor alive is a rev-limiter. You can kill two birds with one stone here,buy yourself an MSD 6AL ignition box. This way you will have a decent ignition system and the "AL" box already has the rev-limiter built in,all you have to do is get the correct "chip" that plugs right into the box to prevent the motor from revving over the specific RPM "you" choose the motor to stop revving at! wink Like I explained in the e-mail I sent you earlier today, you can "usually" pick one of those up fairly cheap on e-bay as well

[INEEDAV]

Thanks for all the advice so far guys. I can definantly see the vaule of a strong short block and how this will be the base of my engine.
Next, where do I need to be looking for parts to make the big block a marine engine?

[K3-River-Rat]

There's not much difference between a car motor and a marine motor aside of the few minor parts that you will be bolting on just prior to or after you put it in the boat aside of the oil pan,baffel and pick-up for the oil pump.You will have to run a special oil pan that is designed for V-drives only (if that's what it's going into)since the motor actually mounts in the boat backwards as to the way it mounts in a car (or jetboat)under acceleration the oil actually is forced to the "front" of the pan rather than the rear. So what has to be done is you will have to get the V-drive oil pick-up that attaches to the oil pump and picks the oil up from the "front" of the motor. The V-drive oil pan has baffels inside of it that work opposite of they normally would since the motor is backwards and allows the oil to flow to the "front" of the oil pan to where the pick-up is located for the pump. The rest of the so-called "marine" parts are going to be the exhaust system,water pump,water circulation hoses,fittings etc. There are several links right here on Hot Boat that will take you directly to marine parts. All you have to do is click on them. I'm sure if you were to ask superdave013 for a little advice as to "where" he thinks you may get the best parts at the most reasonable prices he would be willing to give you a pretty good idea. He seems to be a pretty helpful kind of a guy all bullshit aside. If you are uncertain about anything just throw what ever it is you are wanting to know up on the board and I'm sure there will be plenty of people willing to give you their advice,oppinion or suggestion. If I was explaining things you "already" were knowledgable of "no offense"