Reply With QuoteI meant Block not pump. Sorry! The Bassett T sucks I agree. So you just ran it to a manual valve?? How does it work? Do you just turn the valve on at 1500 RPM's???
I have a Bassett T as well as a ball valve on mine....
I'm not exactly sure what your asking, but the way it is set up is like this. If I remeber correctly, I have a -10 coming in off the pump that goes into a water pressure reducing regulator and then up to the inlet crossover on the front of the motor. Water exits through the Thermostat housing (no thermostat inside) throught two -8 lines. One of the -8 lines goes directly to an overboard dump and the other runs up the drivers side floor under the seats to a manual gate valve located just under my seat where I can reach down and adjust header water. The line then goes back under the motor to a Bassett T and then to the headers. I removed the ball and spring from the Bassett T and installed the manual valve under my seat because the Bassett T would never work at the right RPM's and it was a pain in the ass. I have a pressure guage on the intake manifold and I see about 12lbs pressure while cruising and 22lbs at WOT. Temp usually runs about 140. I have all AN fittings and use the Black Cloth Braided Push on Hose. It's cheaper than Braided Steal but looks better than plain rubber. If you decide to go with Braided definately call Super Dave. He has the best prices for sure. :rollside:
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I meant Block not pump. Sorry! The Bassett T sucks I agree. So you just ran it to a manual valve?? How does it work? Do you just turn the valve on at 1500 RPM's???
I meant Block not pump. Sorry! The Bassett T sucks I agree. So you just ran it to a manual valve?? How does it work? Do you just turn the valve on at 1500 RPM's???
I have a Bassett T as well as a ball valve on mine....
I have a Bassett T as well as a ball valve on mine....
i have a basset t valve as well. water to the headers at 2200, i havent had a problem yet...............
i have a basset t valve as well. water to the headers at 2200, i havent had a problem yet...............
That is really surprising, considereing the water in our lakes is like mud. I would think that it would get boogered up over the years. I like muppumpers idea of eliminating it. It was so hard to get to if the ball got stuck.
if you look at the above picture. you can see my water lines as they are. my fuel lines are all braided as well as the header lines. look at the water pump plate and you see they red lines incomming.
Thats what mine looks like, except for the split coming back out. There is a thermostat housing that is split in the middle. One hose goes back down, under the motor, out the back a the boat. The other has the valve right up top, runs down to the Bassett T, & then splits off to the headers....
That is really surprising, considereing the water in our lakes is like mud. I would think that it would get boogered up over the years. I like muppumpers idea of eliminating it. It was so hard to get to if the ball got stuck.
I had that happen, the ball/spring, got boogered up & wouldn't let any water go to the headers. Which of course turns the headers all funky, unless they are coated like 460's are. I cleaned it up, problem fixed. I stll have the manual valve ahead of the Bassett T to reduce the amount of water going to the headers or just cut the header water off completely if I need to.....
Thats what mine looks like, except for the split coming back out. There is a thermostat housing that is split in the middle. One hose goes back down, under the motor, out the back a the boat. The other has the valve right up top, runs down to the Bassett T, & then splits off to the headers....
yea you can see where i have my t valve at, its right off the thermostat housing.......braided lines look better thats my main purpose in doing it.....
I meant Block not pump. Sorry! The Bassett T sucks I agree. So you just ran it to a manual valve?? How does it work? Do you just turn the valve on at 1500 RPM's???
I tried the Bassett T and could never get it adjusted right. It either came on too early or late or would not shut off the water at the right RPM. I tried the Banderlog valve for a while and it worked great when it was working, but the solenoid kept getting stuck open. I tried to remedy the broblem with Jim who used to own the company but couldn't figure out what was up. So basically I just installed the manual valve under my seat. I get up on plain and crack it open, a quick look over my shoulder lets me know if it's adjusted correctly and just before coming off of plain I shut it down. Never fails, and I don't have to worry about reversion.
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