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Thread: Vdrive Plate Struts - Their Value?

  1. #141
    wsuwrhr
    Do you EVER miss an opportunity to SPAM your shit?
    You are killin me.
    Brian
    Now that everyone got to show thier Billet Cases.........................
    Here's the latest from the Innovater................
    CASALE ENGINEERING............KING OF THE V-DRIVES!!!
    As far as plate Flex,......use 1/2 " plate, braces, and angled brackets on the stringers and should be NO problems.

  2. #142
    GofastRacer
    By the way... where is ART???:notam: I wanted to discuss structual integrity of a PB&J using only 2 slices of bread, not 3... I believe if you step up & use the 7 grain orowheat bread there is a weight savings & a cross grain advantage to the sheer strenght. RD the door is open & the light is on! GO!
    Good call on the cross grain, but there may be an issue between the creamy and the chunky, I do believe they flow in opposite directions so one may have to consider the grain direction, maybe that's where the third slice would be helpful, opposite grain direction in the middle one and you could use a creamy on one side and a chunky on the other side, things should hold together pretty good that way I would think??, as far as the J goes it goes any way it wants so that wouldn't be a problem!..

  3. #143
    wsuwrhr
    BTW. Keep in mind that all this shiz is bolted down tight to WOOD bonded to FIBERGLASS. Now that is rigid.
    To be a truely rigid to what is REALLY important, braces, rods or whatever should be mounted in a trianglated fashion attached to the motor, which should also be attached to the strut, forming somewhat of a chassis.
    Billy B's hotrod has some hellion braces attached to the rear motorplate that are attached to the strut.
    Brian

  4. #144
    superdave013
    Old Bridges(and old Buildings) are made to flex you dork.
    of course they do. And it was all figured out by a guy with a pencil and a slide rule. No CAD and no FEA.
    That was my point you dork.

  5. #145
    superdave013
    I have an 1-1/2 plate here of 7075 about the same size as a dual carb tunnel ram top. Should be close to the right size.
    1/2 plate should be cheap Dave, you represent ballers everywhere, you don't have enough plate laying around?
    I have enough material to donate. SHEETS of 1/2, 3/8 1/4 plate. I am not scared.
    Brian
    Why waste the material when a first year physics class will give you all the info you need??
    All that stuff is also in the Machinery Handbook and I know you have a copy of that.

  6. #146
    Unchained
    I'll tell ya what for the naysayers... If you guys really want to debate this shiznit we'll make a bet. I'll you 200 bucks (about the cost of materials) that I can take 3 sheets of aluminum, bolt them together in the same fashion using the same bolts and crank the shit out of them all day long.. I'll support those 3 plates on 2 1,2,3 blocks roughly 18 - 20 inches apart.
    I will stick them in a hydraulic press with a Dial Indicator mounted to it..
    I will put about 4 thousand pounds on it, and take a reading of how much it moved.
    I will then rig the same setup with one solid block the same thickness and mount it in the same way. I'll bet that the solid block will bend less then the 3 stacked together.
    We'll put the "E-Speculation" to the test.. Any takers Unchained?
    I'll also bet (for a little more money) that if I rig up a 4 link system like the ones shown here, that I'll probably break my press before I get that focker to move a measurable amount.
    This shit isn't theories... It's common sense.
    I'm not trying to Cap on Art's setup, but to claim it's just as rigid as a 4 link setup is just plain wrong. His setup might work fine for what he has in the boat (how do I know?) but it is NOT as rigid as the 4 link, and I'll claim (through educated speculation sir Dave ) that it will NOT live up to the claim that 3 stacked together with nothing to prevent lateral movement will be just as strong as a solid plate.
    I'll order the materials over the weekend just to finally put this thing to rest..
    RD
    Well, I don't know what a "shiznit" is, so I can't comment on that one.
    I don't have one of those on my boat.
    As far as the solid plate being stiffer than the three plates stacked up.....That's not what you stated back when this started, you stated that the three plates would always be sliding against each other, I disagree on that point. It is possible to get enough clamping force between those plates to not have any sliding at all, even with clearance holes. It may take larger bolts to accomplish it but it could be done.
    We build overhead cranes and the girder connections are held by the friction between the mounting plates of the girder and the endtruck. Even though it is a shear connection the bolts are not under shear because of the degree of torque on the bolts. 410 ft lbs x 8 bolts does a 10 ton girder connection.
    http://emh-inc.com/et_main-cnnctn.htm
    As far as the bet goes, I could put a dial indicator between the connection plates and put a 10 ton load on the crane. This connection has been used successfully for many years with no failures to my knowledge.
    Again, I'm only commenting on the mounting plates sliding against each other. No matter what kind of gearbox mount someone has, and however strong it is, somewhere it still has to bolt to a very flexible fiberglass hull.

  7. #147
    RiverDave
    I have an 1-1/2 plate here of 7075 about the same size as a dual carb tunnel ram top. Should be close to the right size.
    1/2 plate should be cheap Dave, you represent ballers everywhere, you don't have enough plate laying around?
    I have enough material to donate. SHEETS of 1/2, 3/8 1/4 plate. I am not scared.
    Brian
    How do you figure I represent ballers everywhere?
    Much to V-Drive Video's happiness, I don't own a set of Dubs.. On my Navi, or my chicks Exped.
    Hell right now I gotta thumb rides on my chicks boat becuase I don't have one.
    I can't even goto the river this weekend becuase I have to work..
    I'm anti-pimpin at it's finest right now.. LOL
    Incidentally I do have the materials in stock, but I figure if I'm gonna prove a point to some nimrod on the internet I should atleast get my material cost back.
    My dog is costing me an arm and a leg..
    RD <---Wish I was a little bit taller, wish I was a baller..

  8. #148
    RiverDave
    Well, I don't know what a "shiznit" is, so I can't comment on that one.
    I don't have one of those on my boat.
    As far as the solid plate being stiffer than the three plates stacked up.....That's not what you stated back when this started, you stated that the three plates would always be sliding against each other, I disagree on that point. It is possible to get enough clamping force between those plates to not have any sliding at all, even with clearance holes. It may take larger bolts to accomplish it but it could be done.
    We build overhead cranes and the girder connections are held by the friction between the mounting plates of the girder and the endtruck. Even though it is a shear connection the bolts are not under shear because of the degree of torque on the bolts. 410 ft lbs x 8 bolts does a 10 ton girder connection.
    http://emh-inc.com/et_main-cnnctn.htm
    As far as the bet goes, I could put a dial indicator between the connection plates and put a 10 ton load on the crane. This connection has been used successfully for many years with no failures to my knowledge.
    Again, I'm only commenting on the mounting plates sliding against each other. No matter what kind of gearbox mount someone has, and however strong it is, somewhere it still has to bolt to a very flexible fiberglass hull.
    Unchained, it was never a question of whether the joint would fail or not, it was a question of whether it would flex or not, and if in fact it was as rigid as a 4 link.
    RD

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