i have a 2001 Utra 21'. It has the 5.7 litre Merc. My question is, has anybody had problems with redoing their exhaust so it goes out the back of the boat vs having it stock and come out the prop? the motor is to quiet for me so i figure that would bring some noise out. Are there any cons for doing that?
There are only a few things to keep in mind. One is to figure out what to do with the Y-pipe to the transom shield. You will have to pull the engine to remove it. the other that I have seen with a few boats in the 20 foot range is room for the tips and hoses. The motor will not have any problems with it running out the transom.
i have a 2001 Utra 21'. It has the 5.7 litre Merc. My question is, has anybody had problems with redoing their exhaust so it goes out the back of the boat vs having it stock and come out the prop? the motor is to quiet for me so i figure that would bring some noise out. Are there any cons for doing that?
I just did this whole thing a couple of months back on my 5.7 powered 21' Bahner. I will try to take some pics of my exhaust system tomorrow so you can see the install. For me installing a complete 4" exhaust system was a mandatory first step due to all the other performance additions I was making.
One part I highly recommend is the part you need to connect from the risers down to the tips (see pic). This is super clean looking and easy if you are running your tips under the swim steps.
i have a 2001 Utra 21'. It has the 5.7 litre Merc. My question is, has anybody had problems with redoing their exhaust so it goes out the back of the boat vs having it stock and come out the prop? the motor is to quiet for me so i figure that would bring some noise out. Are there any cons for doing that?
If you wanted to do the exhaust conversion and not pull the motor this summer, you can get rubber end caps for pipes from Home Depot. They attach using 2 stainless hose clamps. This will seal off the y pipe. When I did a conversion in a Scarab years ago, I did this same thing at first. Ran it that way for quite a while.
Darrell.
Pulling the motor is not that hard, and would only take about an hour. Why not do it right, from the start?
I did mine back in 1992 after adding heads and cam and HP manifolds and risers. I pulled the motor and stock Y pipe and installed the blockoff plate. Reinstalled engine and measured for the cutting. I used a 3.5" holesaw bit and went at it. Take your time and measure precise so holes are perfect. I bought Rex 3.5" slash SS tips and installed with marine sealant. Used 4" marine exhaust tube to connect risers to tips. It's worked great and I did it myself so it's done right. I also had to work under the swim platform.
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/5...e002jk2.th.jpg (http://img109.imageshack.us/my.php?i...ture002jk2.jpg)
http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/9...dulebm8.th.jpg (http://img356.imageshack.us/my.php?i...emodulebm8.jpg)
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/2...aoffey3.th.jpg (http://img266.imageshack.us/my.php?i...lphaoffey3.jpg)
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/7...pullqk5.th.jpg (http://img266.imageshack.us/my.php?i...ytopullqk5.jpg)
You guys are awesome! Thanks for the help. Im sure ill have more questions when I start sinking money into the motor to get more ponys.
Pulling the engine and the Y pipe is definitely the right way. However it is not a one hour job. On your boat you will have to remove the hatch, move the rear seat forward or take it out, remove the drive, yes REMOVE THE DRIVE! I hear people all the time saying you can pull the engine without removing the drive. If you are lucky enough to not damage the coupler, gimbal bearing, or drive shaft, you will never get it back in. The two rear mounting bolts must be tight for the alignment to be correct. As soon as you loosen them there will be a bind on the coupler, gimbal bearing, and drive shaft.
With that said.... engine and drive out, Y removed and cover plate installed, engine re-installed, wiring, power steering lines, throttle cable, water line, exhaust hoses, fuel line, motor mounts, seat, and hatch. An experienced boat mechanic with the right tools will spend about 4 hours start to finish.
If you don't remove the Y pipe and cut it as low as you can and cap it there is still a chance on a smaller boat that it will be in the way of your new "S" pipes and tips.
Pulling the motor is not that hard, and would only take about an hour. Why not do it right, from the start?
Just giving him an option if he didn't want to pull the motor right-a-way.
Darrell.
I have 4 sets of 4 inch exhaust tips will sell any of them $150 obo, 1 set straight thru, 1 set with silencers in them, one set is made to exit off of corners of boat at water line and last set has shudders in them
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