How do you remove stringers?

[malcolm]

I used long sleeves with a light rubber band on the ends to keep it from going up my arms. I also used some baby powder on my hands an kept the shop vac running the whole time.

[Glencoe MiniDay]

Use baby powder to fill the pores of your skin and then when you wash off it will rinse right off.

[GasGuzzler]

I would leave about a quarter inch of the glass on the bottom to epoxy and set the new stringer in. Sure saves alot of worry about getting the stringer back in the right place and out of whack. Guess what I am trying to say is leave a channel to sit the new stringer in

[Mighty Thor]

I would leave about a quarter inch of the glass on the bottom to epoxy and set the new stringer in. Sure saves alot of worry about getting the stringer back in the right place and out of whack. Guess what I am trying to say is leave a channel to sit the new stringer in
I will have to leave a lot more than a 1/4 inch on the outside cause I can't get at the botton of the stringer on that side, it is too close to a chine line in the hull. I guess I can grind it down after the stringer is out. I also have to worry about how to clean the hull for later adheision for the new stringers. The oil and grease in the bottom have pretty well saturated things. I suspect I will be using solvents by the gallon to try to get stuff clean. Thanks for all the advise so far. I have a little more floor to remove and then I start the nasty job of cutting them out.

[tahiti cowboy]

I cut out all the floor ,trans. engine stringers,and floor stringers with air cut off wheel and alot of the thinest cut off wheels I could find at harber freaght butt it worked great butt where a mask

[BrendellaJet]

Grind all the old glass away & start with frsh product everywhere. Leaving a channel for it to sit in will make it difficult to ensure a good bond on all new surfaces

[ssanddemon]

Howdy, Big Thor! Still got my CVX by the way. A couple of years ago, I ran across this stuff on IBoats, called 'Seacast'. Sounded interesting, so I had them send me the info pack with all the literature and a sample of this stuff. It's a pourable epoxy that replaces the wood in transoms and stringers. Waterproof and rot-proof and it just mixes up and pours in place where the wood used to be. It's not even very expensive and would sure be easier and stronger than carving out new stringers by trial-and error. The sample piece I got was pretty light, but strong as hell- looks like good material. Anyway, here's the site:
http://www.transomrepair.com/stringers/stringers.html
Edit: but if you use this stuff, it looks like an easy deal as long as you only open up the top of the stringer cap, enough to pull the wood out. Otherwise you would have to make a 'blank' in order to form a new mold to pour the stuff into.