Right now I am running a line going into a valve I bought at home depot and out of that into a T valve and then to the headers. I crank the valve off at idle and before I leave the no wake zone I turn it on. Here is the thing, as I am smashing on it, I can look back and there is no water blasting out the headers, should there be? It seems like the change colors everytime I go out, at this rate another 3 trips and they will be shot.
What are your guys running?
Everyone seems to say "HOT JET COATING"I did that with my Jet boat and still jave rust and color problems eek! any way now that I have a v-drive I have the same delema Im running Bassets wih a valve to turn it on or off " no reading between the lines guys" I have the basset pressure valve on my J-- boat and it worked fine with the sanderson headers when the were chrome but now Im not sure what the answer is , I say try the pressure valve wit a shut of valve, my .02 worth.
is the t-valve a basset valve? if so leave the spring alone and adjust the on-off valve to get water at 2000 RPMS. you may have to fine tune the valve once in awhile. just my 2 cents
Jet-Hot inside and out, run em dry, F**K all that bullshit!..
If you ask 10 people this question, you'll get 10 or 12 answers. What it boils down to is how you wish to allow enough water into and out of the motor to keep it at operating temperature, and then how to get rid of it! Some people run it through the headers and dump the rest at the collectors, (quieter), others dump it all overboard, and run the headers dry. Some dump the engine water, and run a ram pickup just for the headers, slower= less, faster = more. There are all sorts of valves, gates, throttle activated valves, pressure regulators, etc, etc, etc.. I've found a happy medium by using "pills" in the header inlet fittings, restricting the amount of water, and dumping the rest overboard. You may have to experiment with your set up to find the right method, that's why boats are soooo much fun.....good luck, moneypitt
Runnum DRY don't mess with all that T-Valve (BS) it is not worth damaging your motor, would rather have headers that are blued than a watered down motor from a T-Valve malfuction. Just my 2-cents worth !
I was running a separate ball valve that got its water supply from the side of the engine block.
Last summer at needles, I picked up a bunch of mud in the marina and the mud blocked the waterlines to the headers.
I had my headers Jet Coated inside and out and am gonna run them dry this year. It makes a difference on who does the jet coating and what formulation they use as there are different blends of aluminum and ceramic components.
If you go this route, talk to people who have had it done and are happy with the results. I have no results yet - but the guy who did it says it should work well and last long - and he knows I am going to run them dry on a blower motor.
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