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Thread: What weight oil...

  1. #1
    Jetaholic
    ...should I run in my boat for the cam break in? It's BBC 454 w/plasma moly rings and clevite bearings. Hyd. flat tappet cam.

  2. #2
    SmokinLowriderSS
    15w-40 Diesel oil, Rotella or Delo, your locale, is the wisdom, and I think it's good.
    Add some GM EOS if you want, can't hurt.
    2500 RPM for 20-30 minuites, not a minuite less, NO idling, and no center springs, just the outers and dampeners.
    I used 10-50 Synthetic Castrol.

  3. #3
    Jetaholic
    not a minuite less...
    "3 shall be the number thou shalt count...and the number of the counting shall be 3"

  4. #4
    cfm
    Shell Rotella T with a bottle of GM's EOS (engine oil supplement)
    In fact, you should run this oil and EOS all the time. Your local GM dealer will have the EOS. Only $6 or so.
    You need zinc ! And this way you'll get it - plenty of it.
    If it wears out using this, it's not do to your oil.

  5. #5
    bajarunner
    A word of caution to all breaking in cams. The Rotella T is not what it was last year. As of 2007 diesel oil is being regulated also and the zinc content is very low, I can't remember the exact value but I can tell you this info comes from a very reliable source. Check the ID. code one the back of the bottle at the end code "SM" is low emissions which means low zinc. Delo says low emission on the bottle Shell does not. Comp also sells an additive for cam breakin but I have not nor will I use it. "Off-Road Racing oil" is anouther option these are said to contain zinc. Also make sure you have lifters that are American made, just because the box says made in USA does no mean it was forged in the USA, only finish machined here. You will want to do your homework on this, be very careful in choosing who you buy lifters from!
    For breaking in a flat tappet cam these days do the following:
    -Lube the heck out of the cam and lifter with the lube from the cam manufacuter. ( I use "redline" synthetic cam lube)
    -Shell Rottella T 15-40W (as we have been).
    -GM EOS lube ("approx" 1.5oz per quart. 10 quarts = 16oz. This is a good rule of thumb)
    -Break in on outer springs only (on most flat tappet hydraulic cams and using quality american made springs thatÂ’s all you need anyway)
    -Prime the oil system.
    -Rotate cam only one revolution, no more! (just to set valves)
    -Have the fuel system primed and ready (bleed injection or fill carb bowls which ever you have.
    -Double, triple, and quadruple check everything (especially ignition timing, and fuel leaks safety is important here!! ) the engine needs to start immediately.
    -Have a fire extinguisher on hand just in case something backfires and goes bad (safety first!)
    -Start engine and let idle @1500-1800 rpm for 25-30mins. Do not, I repeat do not run the engine below 1500rpm or over 2000rpm. The last thing you want is lifter bounce during break-in from to much rpm and not enough oil splash from to little.
    -When your done change the oil and look at its condition.
    For most this is fine, but I go a step further. I let the engine cool until cold and I start it up and run it an additional 15min @ 1500rpm just to heat cycle it one more time for good measure.
    Hope this helps, it's what works for me.

  6. #6
    centerhill condor
    )
    .
    -Have a fire extinguisher on hand just in case something backfires and goes bad (safety first!)
    .
    .
    notice he wrote "good"!

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