Reply With QuoteI agree. If you are going to run the motor at it's capabilities, then you should go dry sump.
shockwaveharry:
Is this motor the Stage 1 540 we were talking about?I don't know myself, but I think by the time you have invested a lout into this motor, a dry sump is a great insurance policy.
Anyone agree?
I agree. If you are going to run the motor at it's capabilities, then you should go dry sump.
502procharger:
...i only have a stock bravo 1. what drive or upgrades do i need with this kind of power. i run like 600hp now and have never had a problem with my bravo 1, but i do not take off like a retard. and advise would be great.You WILL break that Bravo. Its a matter of time.
Your 2 choices..IMHO, is either Imco or B-Max...I prefer the B-Max (we break less of them than imco). But the Problem is Availablity. They are pretty hard to get. And $$$$$ eek!
For instance:
28 Cat, Teague motor, 1000hp dyno...in rough, or semi rough water, the Brand new Imco XR Broke 3 times summer. Prop/Vert Shafts, & Shifting forks once eek! But much to Imco's applaude, they take it back, and fix it each time.
With all this in mind, upgrading a drive is a must. Of course, this is a larger cat, your boat is a little smaller.
[ August 28, 2002, 12:00 PM: Message edited by: Horsepowerchik ]
first of all i hope you got close to 600 cubic inches to make 950hp with 6 pounds boost.your bravo wont last long,but if you wait until you blow it up you take a chance of the outdrive not being worth anything plus you could lose your $600 prop in the process.i would have it built before do any serious running.
502procharger:
ty,
i really do not know much about a dry sump. What is the difference, and what are the benefits? What do they cost?I have a fair amount of experience with dry sumps. They are called that because the sump is dry unlike most of our engines where the oil pumps sump is submerged in the oil reservoir (pan). They can be expensive & will provide an additional HP increase not to mention the increased reliability that they provide. If you had the money I wouldn't give it a second thought.
The systems include lots of braided hoses with A/N fittings, a storage tank and a 3, 4 or 5-stage pump mounted on the front of the engine & belt driven, cooler, and filter. Oil is drawn from the tank to the pump, pressurized then delivered to the engine, while the other stages scavenge oil from the heads, oil pan & sometimes the valley, then delivered back to the tank. Due to the capacity of the system you never want to get on a cold engine & should have a temp gauge in the tank else you might damage bearing with cold oil over time.
i am looking more for about 850hp not 950hp, but i have not decided to stay with the 540, or go to the 572. the 540 dynoed at 634 with ported gm rec port heads, and i think i am going to go with a set of brodix, or merlin heads but i have not decided. the motor is 634hp without the procharger, i should be able to make 850 easy with 6lbs of boost. my engine builder said the 540 is a stronger motor than if i stroke it to the 572, but if any of you have a diff. opinion i would live to hear it. as far as a dry sump goes, who makes a good one and what do they cost. if i do not go with the dry sump am i just loosing hp or am i going to blow my motor? any input is great.
hpchick,
is there anything i can do to my bravo 1 to beef it up? so you think i should pull it now and sell it, put on a b-max or imco xtreme? what about the xr? it is a bit more in my price range. if any of you know where to get one of these drives used at a fair price please let me know. what is my bravo 1 worth?
502procharger:
as far as a dry sump goes, who makes a good one and what do they cost. if i do not go with the dry sump am i just loosing hp or am i going to blow my motor? any input is great.Call these guys http://www.weaverbrothers.com/ about drysumps
Weaver Brothers, LTD.
1980 Boeing Way
Carson City, NV 89706
(775) 883-7677 Phone
I bet you pop that stock bravo idling out the first time you put it in the water.
But seriously you need to either beef it up or replace it with a something that can handle that much power. like a #6 drive (not really an option becasue of the need for a tranny) or perhaps an arneson. They make a kit for bravo to ASD where the engeins stays in the same place and the tranny mount in a stand off box with the asd attached to the standoff. works pretty well and is customer made for the application.
502procharger:
billet crank, manley pro series rods, je pistons, crane roller valve train, what else do you think i should look into for the lower end?Basically the same motor as mine. I run Chevy steel square port heads, w/mild porting. B&M 420 blower w/intercooler. Dooley 10 qt. pan, high volume Melling oil pump, 7# boost, 878 horsepower at 6000 rpm. Bravo 1 with upgraded gears and shafts. Just hit 1 yr anniversary last weekend. No problems so far, knock on wood. One caveat, it's in a reasonably light 22' cat.
Craig
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