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Thread: Need Some Pointers Please

  1. #21
    jimslade
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ril2007139.jpg
    Still have a bunch of grinding to do, the stringer beds need prepping and the hull needs properly supported and checked with a straight edge before I can think about the new stringers. Now the question is this, what is the best way to bed the stringers in place. The Carlson is a full stringer boat with two 14' stringers. I have some West epoxy resin and 404 high density filler but I don't think I can afford to do the entire boat with it. Can you use the 404 filler with poly resin? I know if I start the boat with the epoxy I will need to stay with it for the entire job. Now I am thinking about just going with poly because it's not so expensive. How about vinylester resins? I'm told that they are a good go between that can be thickened with microbubbles like poly but is a much better resin than poly and not expensive like epoxy. :idea: Do I use a bedding compound like Dolphin lite or just use my thickened resin to hold the stringers in place before they are matted in? I have a plastic 454 mach up block that I am gonna use. I have my front motor plate, bell housung and oil pan bolted to it so that should really be a big help with the alignment of my stringers and keep me from installing them wrong. Thanks for looking!
    Fred in VA.
    The stringers should not contact the bottom of the boat. This could setup a stress fracture. Set the stringers up 1/4 of an inch on a strip of foam. Use an poly- isophalic resin to glass the stringers in. Epoxy is overkill on a boat that size. Just make sure you grind with 24 grit, you are setting up a mechanical bond. Glass the stringers in with 3 lapped layers of 1810 glass.
    Now the scratching starts.

  2. #22
    CVX20
    Your dashboard looks great! The Cragar cap on the steering wheel is a super nice touch as well! Is the wheel plastic or wood?
    I am from Roanoke/Vinton/Blue Ridge. Got hooked on boats hanging out on SML! I live in Tennesse now and have a couple of Carlsons. My family is in Roanoke. My sister's husband runs B&M sheet metal. If you are in need of some stainless goodies fabricated give them a ring!
    Kevin
    Hi Kevin
    We live in Roanoke County, Hollins area. We spend the weekends at the Hanabass camp ground near the old Cape Carlin Marina. We usually beach our junk at the big island that has the nice beach, you know the one just below Hales Ford Bridge. I'm kind of new at this but having a blast. We are on a mission to bring older hot boats togerher on SML like back in the the good old days. Last year we had small get together at the island and had about 7 or 8 cool old hot boats show up. Hope to see 12 to 15 this year. The metal I used in the dash came from B&M they were really nice. Love to see your classic boats one day. Maybe you can come back up one day to ride the Lake and chill out with us.
    Thanks Fred!
    PS- Yes the steering wheel grip is some sort of really hard plastic. I wet sanded and polished it back smooth because it Looked like crap when I got it.

  3. #23
    CVX20
    Hi Jim.
    That is exactly what I'm looking for, some good advice. I want to do this deal the right way the first time.
    Thanks for posting!

  4. #24
    jimslade
    I do this stuff for a living, any help you want let me know. I just finished walking a guy from BC through the same process. There is a lot of bad advice out there, be careful.

  5. #25
    CVX20
    I do this stuff for a living, any help you want let me know. I just finished walking a guy from BC through the same process. There is a lot of bad advice out there, be careful.
    OK Jim you had to ask
    Just a few questions. I was watching the show "Ship Shape TV" they used a felt bedding material that was fixed to the bottom of each stringer. They wet out the felt and the stringer bed really well then put them together. They also talked about hard spots in the hull from rigid stringer bottoms. How about this felt stuff? Looks like it will do the same thing as the foam stringer bed. How come the 2 old boats I have torn down were just full of that nasty old pink and rock hard Detroit body filler. I found that stuff under every section of wood in the boats. Is the foam just any kind of foam and is the felt just any old felt? Do they have a name or can you post a link to them so I can order what I need. Can I use a run of the mill poly resin like the kind auto parts stores and home improvement centers keep in stock? That' what I used in the last boat.
    Thanks Fred!!

  6. #26
    jimslade
    The felt does not absorb enough resin to be hard. The boat bone yards are littered with boats with stress fractures. You could use any type of foam that doesn't react with resin. The main point is to make sure that the stress is spread out to the outer portions of the stringer. The poly resin at most stores is a cheap ortho waxed resin. You don't want to use a waxed resin until the final coat. You will have bonding problems even if you prep properly. Try to find a marine supplier, and use an isophalic resin. It is better than ortho and not as expensive and toxic like vinlyesters. People always bash anything other than epoxy but there are very few boats built completely out of epoxy. Very expensive and you have to engineer to the elogation of epoxy. I hope I have helped you out. Jim

  7. #27
    CVX20
    [QUOTE=jimslade;2624015]The felt does not absorb enough resin to be hard. The boat bone yards are littered with boats with stress fractures. You could use any type of foam that doesn't react with resin. The main point is to make sure that the stress is spread out to the outer portions of the stringer. The poly resin at most stores is a cheap ortho waxed resin. You don't want to use a waxed resin until the final coat. You will have bonding problems even if you prep properly. Try to find a marine supplier, and use an isophalic resin. It is better than ortho and not as expensive and toxic like vinlyesters. People always bash anything other than epoxy but there are very few boats built completely out of epoxy. Very expensive and you have to engineer to the elogation of epoxy. I hope I have helped you out. Jim[/QUOTE
    That information is going to be a big help Jim. I have 2 new gallons of the ortho resin that I can use on some under the cap repairs. I will get the good poly resin for the stringers transom and floor.
    Thank You!
    Fred

  8. #28
    CVX20
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ster/004-2.jpg
    I got a bad feeling that this install is gonna suck. Did I pick the wrong thing for a first time glass project or what. This is what I plan to use to filli the big ass hole that was cut out of my engine hatch. The classic glastron gang may not like the way it looks but it's the best idea I can come up with.

  9. #29
    CVX20
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ster/012-2.jpg
    I did some cutting and got it about 1/2 ass fitted in place. I just hope that giong with it pointed forward wasn't a big mistake. I don't think that the air cleaner would clear if I installed it the other way. I really hope that a loose towl or some other junk dosn't get free in the boat and slip down inside the scoop. I think an engine hatch fire could screw up a nice day. Hummmmmmm it looks like I need to come up with a grill for the front now. I'm going to order a pair of factory cowl iductioin emblems to put on ithe sides. Think they will look way better than the Glastron emblems that came on ithe boat. They were trashed any way.

  10. #30
    CVX20
    Located a pair of the old school seats I was looking for. I think they will look way better when done than the squared off tall seats that came in the CVX20's. I plan to building the rear bench seat so it is curved on the corners to match the front seats and cover everything with pleated vinyl.
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...Project002.jpg

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