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Thread: Spun a bearing

  1. #1
    Crossbow_CA
    After pulling the engine apart I found that the cause of my engine knock is from a spun rod bearing. There is a lot of very fine metal shavings all over everything. Do I have to completely disassemble the engine to clean it all out, or can it be done on the stand without removing the heads and intake?
    http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/3...otor001vz4.jpg
    Shot with DSC-P41 (http://profile.imageshack.us/camerab...-P41&make=SONY) at 2007-06-26
    http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7...otor002hr6.jpg
    Shot with DSC-P41 (http://profile.imageshack.us/camerab...-P41&make=SONY) at 2007-06-26

  2. #2
    obnoxious001
    You are going to need to pull it all apart, not only to clean the metal out of the block, but to do the necessary work to the crankshaft and rod or rods that were affected, at the very least.

  3. #3
    Crossbow_CA
    I thought as much, thanks

  4. #4
    wsuwrhr
    ABSOLUTELY.
    Not to mention the crank will most likely have to be turned. You are in store for a complete build.
    Do I have to completely disassemble the engine to clean it all out

  5. #5
    wsuwrhr
    You are going to need to pull it all apart, not only to clean the metal out of the block, but to do the necessary work to the crankshaft and rod or rods that were affected, at the very least.
    Oooopppsss, yea what he said.

  6. #6
    pw_Tony
    And once it's turned it might be nice to get the rods honed and to balance everything again

  7. #7
    HammerDown
    Don't forget to pull...(all)...the oil galley plugs when you clean/flush the block!

  8. #8
    LakesOnly
    I found that the cause of my engine knock is from a spun rod bearing. There is a lot of very fine metal shavings all over everything. Do I have to completely disassemble the engine to clean it all out, or can it be done on the stand without removing the heads and intake? Fully disassemble the engine and thoroughly clean every individual component, this includes disassembling cleaning and inspecing your oil pump and cleaning your pickup tube
    Measure everything and correct/repair/replace individual components as needed
    Assuming you regrind the crankshaft but use the same part numbers for your reciprocating assembly, there is absolutely no need to rebalance the rotating assembly, however it may be necessary to weight match any new reciprocating components (that replace the damaged reciprocating compnents) with those components that are being re-used
    Open up the oil pump mounting pad-to-filter pad from 1/2-inch to 9/16-inch as outlined on the High Flow Dynamics Technical Pages (www.highflowdynamics.net/).
    During reassembly, be sure to install the oil gallery plugs as specified HERE (http://www.***boat.com/forums/showth...827&highlight=).
    I can help with crankshafts, rods, blocks, and oil pumps, if you need any such parts and are having trouble locating them.
    LO

  9. #9
    058
    Do not reuse the rod that the spun the bearing. No matter what the machinist says about reconditioning that rod it seems they are never quite right after. Maybe for a passenger car engine that never sees the high side of 3000 rpms but for something that sees 4500-5500 rpm for long periods of time I would not take a chance to save a few bucks on re-doing that rod. I would go as far to get a set of Eagles or Scat rods and eliminate any chance of another stock rod going south.

  10. #10
    Ralph Brunt
    Fully disassemble the engine and thoroughly clean every individual component, this includes disassembling cleaning and inspecing your oil pump and cleaning your pickup tube
    Measure everything and correct/repair/replace individual components as needed
    Assuming you regrind the crankshaft but use the same part numbers for your reciprocating assembly, there is absolutely no need to rebalance the rotating assembly, however it may be necessary to weight match any new reciprocating components (that replace the damaged reciprocating compnents) with those components that are being re-used
    Open up the oil pump mounting pad-to-filter pad from 1/2-inch to 9/16-inch as outlined on the High Flow Dynamics Technical Pages (www.highflowdynamics.net/).
    During reassembly, be sure to install the oil gallery plugs as specified HERE (http://www.***boat.com/forums/showth...827&highlight=).
    I can help with crankshafts, rods, blocks, and oil pumps, if you need any such parts and are having trouble locating them.
    LO
    i allready told him this, good post lakes

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