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Thread: New To Jets

  1. #31
    GAWnCA
    Well, I tried the re-plumb using the 4 port thermostat cover and using the Rex Marine diagram.
    http://home.comcast.net/~gregaw/page160.jpg
    That didn't work. Took out the valve to the headers and used only the Bassett "T" valve with the pressure ball and spring and flooded the headers while using water hose connection for cooling. I think some water slipped past and ended up in the oil. DAMN! :devil: Well, I needed to change the oil any way, since I don't know what was put in there to begin with. Guess I'll use some 20w-50 synthetic oil, unless someone has a better idea.
    Anyway, back to the story. Got everything hooked up and regulated, installed a 160* thermostat, turned on the water, got the exhaust water just sputtering along, fired it up and within a few minutes the temp spiked to about 200*. So I put everything back the way it was, started up again and now it's running cool around 135* to 140* Sure don't like the fact that water got to the oil so easily. May need new head gaskets. Who knows at this point. Removed the thermostat too.

  2. #32
    GAWnCA
    The engine is a 460 Ford. Sounds great and does start right up. Starts better now that the plug wires are like they are suppose to be....
    Well, everyone has seen the messy plumbing job that I was dealing with and now I've got a good grip on how it should be done.
    Here's the BEFORE photo:
    http://home.comcast.net/~gregaw/Engi...lumbing001.jpg
    Here are some AFTER shots;
    http://home.comcast.net/~gregaw/plumbing_after-001.jpg
    I need to remount that resistor. I've got to order a 2 port thermostat cover as well.
    http://home.comcast.net/~gregaw/plumbing_after-003.jpg
    I still hate the looks of that green valve but it's what I've got for now. You can see the ball check valve hidden down next to the front engine mounting plate.
    Damn wiring is bugging me too!
    I hope to get it wet tomorrow morning. I'll let you know how it goes!
    Thanks to all for your input.

  3. #33
    Danhercules
    Looks a lot better!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Will be perfect with the new t-stat housing.
    With that ball valve (equal to a Basset "T") working, you dont need the gate valve( green valve).
    I never had a valve on my dump line or the line to the headers and she worked great. You only need the green valve if you wanna shut the water off complety to the headers.
    Remember, there should be no water thought the headers on idle. Only when you up the water pressure aka, give it gas.
    If you hook it up to a hose, you just bairly crack the hose bib, like 1/2 turn and run your motor on idle. No water through the headers.
    If your gonna run it at higher RMP to time it or something, then you need more water and then it will come out of the headers.
    Always disconnect your pump when running it out of the water. IMO.
    Lookin good!!!
    .

  4. #34
    GAWnCA
    Looks a lot better!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Will be perfect with the new t-stat housing.
    With that ball valve (equal to a Basset "T") working, you dont need the gate valve( green valve).
    I never had a valve on my dump line or the line to the headers and she worked great. You only need the green valve if you wanna shut the water off complety to the headers.
    Remember, there should be no water thought the headers on idle. Only when you up the water pressure aka, give it gas.
    If you hook it up to a hose, you just bairly crack the hose bib, like 1/2 turn and run your motor on idle. No water through the headers.
    If your gonna run it at higher RMP to time it or something, then you need more water and then it will come out of the headers.
    Always disconnect your pump when running it out of the water. IMO.
    Lookin good!!!.
    Thanks Dan, I think it looks better too. I just left the valve in there until I feel better about controlling the water when I have it on the garden hose. I think I already ran water into the oil pan when I removed the valve and turned on teh water before starting.
    Next question.... What weight motor oil should I use? I have no idea what's in there now and it looks like I've got a 10 qt. pan.
    Thanks, again.

  5. #35
    rp14
    How about some photos? Where in Sacramento are you? Does the engine run now?
    I am off Florin and Hwy 99. The engine seems froze after I tried to turn with a wrench. So I pulled the heads off getting it ready to pull the engine so I can rebuild it. I am also going to rebuild the jet drive as well.
    Email me offline so we can touch base, I will need some advice to how to build the engine to add a little more HP, not too wild unless I change the drive.
    Thanks,
    Ron

  6. #36
    rp14
    rp14,
    did you see the responses on the Laid Back Board?
    As you and Gaw can see, there's a lot of people in these parts that are more than willing to give a helping hand. I'm in Sonoma and the offer for some help comes from me also although Fleetimus is the one with a real good set-up.
    Yes I did, just need to get some time and money to get started on my boat. Looks like a good winter project to get it on the lakes in the Spring. Just need ideas and advice to build the engine and jet drive.
    Thanks,
    Ron

  7. #37
    rp14
    Here is a photo of the beast. Ugly right now but will look a lot better when I spend some time on it.
    http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...4/IMG_0854.jpg
    Ron
    http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...4/IMG_0854.jpg

  8. #38
    GAWnCA
    Here is a photo of the beast. Ugly right now but will look a lot better when I spend some time on it.
    Ron
    Hi Ron, Moose is in our area too. He's somewhere just around the corner from me. I'm off French road. That can be a nice boat when you get it done. Where did you pick it up?
    Greg

  9. #39
    GAWnCA
    Well, 2 new issues reared their ugly head last night. One, I installed some new plug wire looms and now I've got wires with a lot of slack in them and others that are almost as tight as a banjo string. I have ordered new wires from Summit and I hope I can get this issues resolved, taking my time to lay out the wires by their length and fit. Second issue is the feeding of fuel. This Miller has saddlebag tanks and a single electric fuel pump. The right tank is completely dry and the left tank has about 5 gallons of gas in it, but I fired up the motor last night just to get the oil back up in the motor and it was running along and then just died, like it was out of gas. I'm think that the right tank ran dry and the pump just started sucking air. My idea is to add in another fuel gage and sending unit so I'll know what's in each tank and maybe adding in a switch over system so that I know when a tank may be getting empty.
    Anyone have any better ideas? I've thought about adding a crossover line in the bottom of the tanks like I had on my trucks (semi's) so that the fuel self levels.
    Thanks,
    Greg

  10. #40
    GAWnCA
    Ok folks, I'm on a quest to find a good picture of the old style (1970's) Miller Custom Boats name plates that use to be put on the top of the hulls and on their trailer fenders. If I can get a good enough photo I can clean that up and then put it on my CNC machine and cut new ones. Also, need to know what bolt pattern and size bolts are used on the wheels, along with bushings. This thing sounds like farm equipment when towed. Thanks, Greg

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