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Thread: Regulating water pressure

  1. #11
    Big Inch
    With a cross over system, to increase water temps you want to restrict water after the engine - ie: at t-stat housing - with restrictors (those big washers with holes) or a t-stat itself.
    These may create more water psi than you want - therefore you have to check this. If you find the correct restrictor and it causes more psi than you want, then you need to run a psi regulator just before the restrictor or block that will dump the excess water over the transom.
    Some people successfully use threaded brass plumbing water psi regulators and many pony up and buy the cheap but of course expensive Mercury Racing water psi valve.
    I would start the cheap and easy way. Get a Moroso or other water restrictor kit. they are cheap and come with a handful of restrictors that vary in orifice size and fit where a t-stat would on intake manifold. Watch your temps and watch your water psi. If both are where you want with no more mods needed, then your all set. If either or both aren't where you want than it's time to run a t-stat with bypass and water psi valve.
    Thank you once again Cfm. I will be trying the restrictor kit once I get the pressure gauge installed.

  2. #12
    Big Inch
    I have seen your previous threads and ask why you want to increase the water temps? I have had both Pfaff and Teague motors and they like to run them as cool as possible. I currently have twin 1,100 HP 572 CI blower motors and they run right at 95- 100 degrees....
    I suggest you consider a different approach. Look at the tune on the motor. Sounds like it is off. I have run many big HP, big inch N/A motors and when the tune is right they ran great at low water temps....
    You may be correct about my tune being off. I am quite certain that I could tune the motor to run efficiently at these colder temps. The reason why I am not doing this and moving on is because I believe it is of utmost importance to get the oil temps up higher then they are reaching when I let the motor run at 95 degrees.

  3. #13
    Big Inch
    You need to be sure the oil is heating up enough to boil out any moisture...
    You also want to make sure that your oil is hot before you run the motor hard. In my boat even getting on plane the motor is running hard. If it is not up to temperature the oil is essentially too thick and this reduces your flow through your motor and I believe leads to premature wear throughout the motor.

  4. #14
    don johnson
    You may be correct about my tune being off. I am quite certain that I could tune the motor to run efficiently at these colder temps. The reason why I am not doing this and moving on is because I believe it is of utmost importance to get the oil temps up higher then they are reaching when I let the motor run at 95 degrees.
    I suggest an oil cooler thermostat kit to maintain oil temps at the desired range. These are readily available.

  5. #15
    Havasu Hangin'
    I suggest an oil cooler thermostat kit to maintain oil temps at the desired range. These are readily available.
    Yep. Oil temp is very independent from block temp.

  6. #16
    BrendellaJet
    Do you have a manufacturer name + part # for that ? Where to buy ? I'd like to check one out. Thanks.
    Its a watts regulator. Try some searching in the jet forums. The part # is mentioned in those threads. Pretty sure the part has been discontinued but it is still available(found mine at a True Value Hardware store). Pressure range is adjustable from 25 psi-75 psi,300 max inlet. You can alter the pressure the block will see by altering inlet & exit line sizes. I think this one has a 3/4 inch pipe thread on it. Lots of guys running this setup with big HP NA deals.

  7. #17
    Big Inch
    I suggest an oil cooler thermostat kit to maintain oil temps at the desired range. These are readily available.
    I have heard of people using these but I don't see where it would be installed on my cooler. You can see pics of the cooler in the linked thread. I believe it is a Dan Olson cooler. I honestly haven't researched these coolers only because someone told me that they limit the flow past the cooler until it reaches temps and if you run in cooler water this can take some time. I think the only downside of this is higher temps on the exhaust tips until it opens. All things considered this may be worth looking at if it is applicable to my cooler. Still going to try the restrictor plates first since it may be a simple fix.

  8. #18
    uLtRADeNniS
    Maybe a bad gauge??....
    I run a 554ci N/A, 802hp. The motor runs much better a cooler temps. I would think its optimal to let it run cool; especially in that desert. The 115+ degree heat can really effect your performance especially when you run less water to the motor.
    Anyways.. this is what I run(available at Grainger). ....I also run a Oil Cooler.
    http://aycu05.webshots.com/image/251...6219612_rs.jpg

  9. #19
    Big Inch
    Maybe a bad gauge??....
    I run a 554ci N/A, 802hp. The motor runs much better a cooler temps. I would think its optimal to let it run cool; especially in that desert. The 115+ degree heat can really effect your performance especially when you run less water to the motor.
    Anyways.. this is what I run(available at Grainger). ....I also run a Oil Cooler.
    I have mechanical gauges hooked up temporarily to insure accuracy.

  10. #20
    Panic Button
    Merc PN 863208A3
    Bypass valve set for 25#
    http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/a...1&d=1057954986

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