My comment about the "no pump gas" is just for safety. You can run 91 octane, but honestly if your motor is 10.5:1 with iron heads you really shouldn't be running straight pump gas anyways.
I don't necessarily think you need a separate fuel tank, although it's not a bad idea. The separate pump or at least the separate regulator and gauge off your existing pump really should be done. If not for reliability, at least for tuning ability.
The comment about mixing up the jets, in my opinion is not a good practice. Much better to use the jets they package together as a HP level, then up the fuel pressure a little for a safety net. The reason I say this is that for a 150 shot, lets just say that the fuel jet is a 70 the next HP level might call for a 78 or something and that is a huge change from what the manufacturer intended.
Lastly, the words about the getting the motor up to a sufficient RPM are good ones. The only way around that is if you had something like a 4500 stall converter, then I wouldn't worry about it.
We use a RPM window switch on the Barb Wire. It turns on the spray at 5K (only if WOT, with sufficient fuel pressure), and off anywhere from 6000 to whatever we need. Usually 6200-6500 rpm. Depending on the weather, each 100 rpm is usually worth .05 to .07 change in the ET.