fiberglass crack.. and fuel leaking from it? help...

[Burn504]

how much should i be expecting to pay for someone to cut out these tanks, install bulkheads to mount to?
how much do custom aluminium tanks cost?
Damn boats...

[DUCKY]

so the reason for leaving a good 12" before the transom is to leave room to work on the bulkhead? or in case of collision?
and your guess is because of the way the fiberglass tanks were mounted lead to a stress crack over time that is now leaking?
To leave room to work, and also to mount your new tanks on only one stress axis. I didn't even consider the collision aspect, but it's not a bad concept. It is my opinion that the way your tanks were mounted probably led to their demise, although fiberglass tanks just suck anyways.
I don't know for sure, but I would guess that a pair of new aluminum tanks will cost you around $600. Getting the old ones out, making the new bulkheads and installing them should take a competent glass guy about 4 hrs (avg shop rate $75/hr) if he didn't have to pull out the interior or do anything strange.
Add a little more to that if you wanted the shop to actually install your new tanks so they were ready to use (fill/vent hoses,fuel lines, hardware, etc...)
BOAT= Break out another thousand......

[Burn504]

To leave room to work, and also to mount your new tanks on only one stress axis. I didn't even consider the collision aspect, but it's not a bad concept. It is my opinion that the way your tanks were mounted probably led to their demise, although fiberglass tanks just suck anyways.
I don't know for sure, but I would guess that a pair of new aluminum tanks will cost you around $600. Getting the old ones out, making the new bulkheads and installing them should take a competent glass guy about 4 hrs (avg shop rate $75/hr) if he didn't have to pull out the interior or do anything strange.
Add a little more to that if you wanted the shop to actually install your new tanks so they were ready to use (fill/vent hoses,fuel lines, hardware, etc...)
BOAT= Break out another thousand......
The local place i contacted that seemed legit said they wanted to see if there was any standard sized tanks that could fit in there to keep the price down.
Im assuming because of the size and where the fuel fills are located in relation to the tank they will have to be custom. I have an appointment for tuesday to take my boat down there. This is such a bummer in the middle of the summer.
the tanks may be able to be removed without removing the rear seats but i doubt it. And ive never removed the rear seats before....

[Burn504]

so after numerous quotes that were ridiculous and shops saying things like they were "afraid it would blow up if they cut them out".
I mean cmon.. drain the fuel... fill/flush with water and start cutting.
I decided to do the work myself like everything else in my life.
I purchased two of these
http://www.overtons.com/assets/image...e/39533_L1.jpg
Moeller 19 Gallon Marine Fuel Tank, 10.25"W, 47"L, 10.19"D
along with two gauges because the tanks are already wired.(my tanks right now dont have gauges) http://www.overtons.com/assets/image...e/34801_L1.jpg
and some strap tie down kits.
Do i need to still put rubber down between the tank and the hull? I Know i was told this when i was going to do aluminium tanks.

[Burn504]

spent the entire day pretty much cutting out the leaky tank. It was molded in very weel across the bottom and tabbed in on each side. Tomorrow i will do the other side along with smoothing out the side i did today with the orbital sander.
I am going to put down a 1/8" rubber sheet for shock absorbtion and i think it will help from corrosion between the hull and tanks.
I am assuming after i clean up the edges and smooth it out that I need to fill a few gaps/chunks to make sure everything is sealed.
Do i lay fiberglass? or just resin?
i need advice on that part too. Nothing I need to glass or patch is structural just comsemtic.
Thanks

[DUCKY]

Fiberglass will never stick to those plastic tanks. I would suggest making yourself some "shelves" to mount the tanks on from plywood, and then just using the nylon webbing type tank straps. Once you fit the shelves to the boat, coat them with resin, and then tab them to the boat. Make sure that you leave at least a 1/4" gap in between your wood work and the hull to prevent problems down the road. The rubber underneath the tanks is not a bad idea, but some good 40 oz carpet will work fine also. If this is all "clear as mud" let me know and I'll try to draw you a picture or something.....

[Burn504]

thanks for the response. Ill update with pics i took a bit later. They are on the camera.
my plan was not to fiberglass to the tank but to lay either fiberglass or resin down to level out the surface where the tanks will sit and to fiberglass in some "blocks" to mount the straps to.
Let me know how i should do that... thanks

[GAWnCA]

Fiberglass will never stick to those plastic tanks. I would suggest making yourself some "shelves" to mount the tanks on from plywood, and then just using the nylon webbing type tank straps. Once you fit the shelves to the boat, coat them with resin, and then tab them to the boat. Make sure that you leave at least a 1/4" gap in between your wood work and the hull to prevent problems down the road. The rubber underneath the tanks is not a bad idea, but some good 40 oz carpet will work fine also. If this is all "clear as mud" let me know and I'll try to draw you a picture or something.....
I think this is a good idea for my metal tanks. The right side is completely loose and only the fuel fill is holding it in place and the fuel fill on the other side needs to be replaced due to leakage. So, this winter I'll be pulling them out and doing a good mount job for them. Then I'll re-do the fuel lines as well.
I like the idea of a shelf and a strap to hold the tanks in place. Need to put a shelf in for a second battery as well. May as well do it all at the same time I do the bilge. Thanks! Greg

[Xlration Marine]

Fiber glass will nit stick to aluminum eather. But I've glassed all of mine in and never had an issue. Two (2) strips of mat and some 18 oz bi-directional, about 10"wide. The length will be what it takes to run from the side of the hull, up to the deck. And then down to the floor, with about 8" of coverage on the floor. Put the tanks on some scrap carpet to keep it from rubbing on the glass and in the back as well. Run the glass behind it as much as you can and then under it to form more of a cradle. The glass won't stick to it but if done right the tank will not move at all.

[Burn504]

Fiber glass will nit stick to aluminum eather. But I've glassed all of mine in and never had an issue. Two (2) strips of mat and some 18 oz bi-directional, about 10"wide. The length will be what it takes to run from the side of the hull, up to the deck. And then down to the floor, with about 8" of coverage on the floor. Put the tanks on some scrap carpet to keep it from rubbing on the glass and in the back as well. Run the glass behind it as much as you can and then under it to form more of a cradle. The glass won't stick to it but if done right the tank will not move at all.
as i said before i dont plan on glassing in the tanks... just glassing in some bulkheads to mount to.
but there has been a change of plans. The tanks i purchased fit barely and where they fit the fuel fill is at the wrong angle. I am just having some aluminum cylindrical tanks done. Do it right the first time...